Which alternator for the electronic ignition upgrade?

[bull]

So during the restoration of my '68 I'm switching to electronic ignition and I keep hearing I need a 1970-style alternator. Why and which one is the popular choice? DB Electric again?

[terrible one]

I'm doing the exact same thing as you (383 in a '68 w/ '70 electronic ignition) and I used the DF alternator 118-1003 on this page:

http://www.440source.com/altparts.htm

[Ghoste]

I wouldn't say that you need the dual field alternator but it will make your life a little easier.

[bull]

I wouldn't say that you need the dual field alternator but it will make your life a little easier.

In my experience it seems there's a very thin line between need and want in this hobby.

[Nacho-RT74]

HONESTLY... being dual or single field doesn't really matter, both charge the same. The deal is get charge at iddle, and single field are same alts that earlier dual field, just that regulator is more efficient and the design about whats the field that controls regulatiorn cahnged from positive pole to negative, thats' all. but reallty the gross power output IS the same between both

For a cheap upgrade alt, go for mids/lates 70s or 80s alt available I guess on any Junkyard car. THEY REALLY CHARGE AT IDDLE.

The experience down here in Venezuela is that all Ignition box got overheated, melting the rear seal stuff, and then getting water on circuit. Thats is mainly ( by my conclusions ) because with not enough power coming from alts, they get damaged, as any computer or electronic device with a bad power reference.

Of course being on a big city with heavy transit will make it more noticeable than inside the country because you will get more stops getting poor power capacity!

Bull, dunno if you already read this, but if not, I think is good time to refloat:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,33574.0.html

[mauve66]

several years ago on www.moparchat.com (net?) they had some people doing a late model truck alt (2005 or so) 120 amp swap but i couldn't find the same thread links that used to be there, i got one to do mine but its still on the shelf waiting its "turn".

with a big stereo you will need alot more than the 45-60 amp of a stock one

[Nacho-RT74]

Modern Big stereos in fact sucks les power than stock radio, so thats not a problem. UNLESS you use an external Audio power plant, and even in that way still could it be enough for a small one.

as stated the real problem is that alt keeps charging at iddle and begining from there... I think I have told that some time in the past ? LOL

work first on get your A/C or Heater blower working with alternator and not with batt, so I mean, with blower working and ammeter dead center needle... better if engine engaged. When you get that, you'll be on the right track to get a good charging system enough to feed the rest.

[John_Kunkel]

The reason the later alternator/regulator are recommended when changing to electronic ignition is because the original regulator has points inside that can cause electrical "noise" in the system as they open/close, this noise is supposedly detrimental to the ignition ECU but myself and others have never experienced a noticeable problem.

Many of the replacement regulators for the pre-'70 system have electronic circuit boards in place of the points so there are more alternatives now.

[Ghoste]

That's interesting John, I had always assumed it was one of those "now you can run a hotter coil" things or something like that.  I guess I can say that in the past I too have run a points regulator with electronic ignition and never noticed an issue.  In fact, I probably had more trouble with ecu's in this car with an electronic regulator.  Go figure.

[mauve66]

Modern Big stereos in fact sucks les power than stock radio, so thats not a problem. UNLESS you use an external Audio power plant, and even in that way still could it be enough for a small one.

as stated the real problem is that alt keeps charging at iddle and begining from there... I think I have told that some time in the past ? LOL

work first on get your A/C or Heater blower working with alternator and not with batt, so I mean, with blower working and ammeter dead center needle... better if engine engaged. When you get that, you'll be on the right track to get a good charging system enough to feed the rest.

i have 2 amplifiers at 25 amps each, plus all the stock lights, cassette player with ch changer, Equalizer, it kills my stock alternator

[bull]

The reason the later alternator/regulator are recommended when changing to electronic ignition is because the original regulator has points inside that can cause electrical "noise" in the system as they open/close, this noise is supposedly detrimental to the ignition ECU but myself and others have never experienced a noticeable problem.

Many of the replacement regulators for the pre-'70 system have electronic circuit boards in place of the points so there are more alternatives now.

Is there an easy way to tell if you have an updated, pre-70 alternator with the circuit board instead of points?

[Ghoste]

Not the alternator, the regulator.  If it's the flat one measuring about 4X5 inches then it's electronic (would also have a three pin connector).
If it's the old black box style measuring about 2X3 inches with the blade style connector it would points style if its original but there are some out there that look like the stock one but with electronic guts.  The only way I know for sure (and there is likely an easier way but...) to tell is to open up the black box and look inside for points or a pc board.

[Nacho-RT74]

earlier mechanical ( up 66, with adjustable trim ):


later mechanical:


electronic:


pigtail to electronic:

[Nacho-RT74]

i have 2 amplifiers at 25 amps each, plus all the stock lights, cassette player with ch changer, Equalizer, it kills my stock alternator

Don't worry, stock equippment kills the alt ANYTIME, LOL

[Nacho-RT74]

Is there an easy way to tell if you have an updated, pre-70 alternator with the circuit board instead of points?

green and blue wires arriving to isolated alt brushes does mean already electronic upgraded

[John_Kunkel]

Is there an easy way to tell if you have an updated, pre-70 alternator with the circuit board instead of points?

Turn the regulator over and look on the bottom, the points style regulator has a couple of long skinny wire-resistors attached to the bottom, the circuit board type doesn't.

[Nacho-RT74]

Is there an easy way to tell if you have an updated, pre-70 alternator with the circuit board instead of points?

Turn the regulator over and look on the bottom, the points style regulator has a couple of long skinny wire-resistors attached to the bottom, the circuit board type doesn't.

this are the internals oin an upgraded old design unit.

cover is reativelly easy to pop up, with reg still on firewall

[Rolling_Thunder]

if you upgrade to a high amp alternator I would suggest bypassing your ammeter...    been there and done that 

[Nacho-RT74]

if you upgrade to a high amp alternator I would suggest bypassing your ammeter...    been there and done that 

no need for that really... trust me. I'm with higher than stock alt ( although still stock but later model ) and I'm simply PERFECT with the setup. Check my link and advices