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Body Help Needed in Dallas

Started by jdiesel33, October 30, 2008, 03:36:46 PM

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mikepmcs

I tend to agree, but really don't want to sell this guy short not knowing him.  I agree with Dave, floors take more than 4-5 hours, no doubt in my mind.  Sounds like he's just gonna cut em out and scab them in with no fitment, just basically throwing them on weldin' em up.  4-5 hours on a trunk pan? :o
I would really like you to see this guys work before you let him get started. Like I said nothing against the guy and who knows he could be that good and that fast, but it tends to beg, if he was, then why isn't he doing it professionally for a resto shop.  Can't put a price on good work IMHO.

Good luck, just saying look at his prior work.  If he gets mad because you are questioning him, then say thank you and walk away.  :Twocents:

v/r
Mike
Life isn't Father Knows Best anymore, it's a kick in the face on a saturday night with a steel toed grip kodiak work boot and a trip to the hospital all bloodied and bashed.....for reconstructive surgery. But, what doesn't kill us, makes us stronger, right?

AutoRust

QuoteYour answer is making me nervous now. I better do some more research

I am not trying to make you nervous, but as a professional rust repair facility, I see things very clearly when it comes to this stuff.
Traveling rust repairmen are a joke in my book. Look at this 63 Chevy Impala Convertible    http://www.autorust.com/hk0.html 
This guy tried to save money and had an ex employee of ours show up at his house with a little 110 welder and not much else in the way of tools. He gave him $2500 down to start it. He showed up and did start cutting it up, and trying to fit in some nice panels. Look what happened. He did a terrible job, horrible. He had no lift, no tools and he didnt work here anymore. That should have clued the customer in, but the thought of saving $10000 was to much, so he tried. Wasted about $5000 trying. And had to buy new sheetmetal again, as well as save for another year so he could get it into my shop.
I know its not the same as a simple floor pan on a B-Body, but beware, it can happen to anyone.   
Nothing to see here folks, its just a Bluesmobile

AutoRust

QuoteDave how are those guys at U.S. car tool ?? I see a body in white program. I am sure you have seen. and do you dip a car first so all the rust just crisps away and whatever is left you fix??

The reason I ask and forgive me all for going a bit off topic but I have a 70 cuda vert borderline basketcase. and would do it myself  but no dipping facility here. thanks SBT

I know John, he is a good guy. I am not so sure about the guys he has working for him. They have an extensive photo gallery.
Here is there typical repairs










I am not to impressed with that repair there for several reasons, and mind you this is from my point of view only
1, way to much weld to put that one little patch in place, and by looking closely, its not welding, its lots of little tacks, just filling in spot, why not just put a small 1/4" bead every 1/2-3/4" ?
2, why not repair the whole area in there at once, instead of all that time fitting in a little section when there is an area with 6-8 inches away that needs work
3, why would you grind away all the weld ? Why waste all that time welding it solid if your going to grind it all off ?
4, all that grinding work, and welding is complete, yet 4 inches below it they are still fabricating a patch?

We dont work like that.

I dont dip cars, as I do not like to have them that far apart. My history with these projects is the farther you get them apart, the more road blocks to get them back together again and completed. I see it take years and years to do like that. We are not a "restoration" shop, just a full service rust repair facility.  I try not to create any more work then we have to, because someone has to pay for it all.  I am not so into the dipping of cars, for a guy at home with a ton of time and skills, its an ok way. My other issue is when there dipped it removes all the seam sealer thats impossible to get to. Lots of stuff is sealed up on the assembly line, and once its built, there is no way to get back in there to re-seal it up.

I know there are 4 ways to do everything, and I am not saying ours is the right way or best way, but after 31 years and over 15,000 + cars under our belt, we must be doing something right.

Dave   
Nothing to see here folks, its just a Bluesmobile

superbirdtom

hey Thank you Dave.       I sure wouldn't want whoever did that work to touch my car. I am so meticulous I will just have to do it myself. we do have a shipyard here with a good blasting facility. I will just have to take plenty of it apart.  I have one more question.

Do convertable cudas or b-bodys have thicker rockers than a hardtop?? I have a hardtop platform with good floors I might use but rockers might not be strong enough . are the convert ones beefed up?? doubled?? or the same. :scratchchin: Thanks again SBT

AutoRust

Quote from: superbirdtom on January 06, 2009, 12:12:31 AM
hey Thank you Dave.       I sure wouldn't want whoever did that work to touch my car. I am so meticulous I will just have to do it myself. we do have a shipyard here with a good blasting facility. I will just have to take plenty of it apart.  I have one more question.

Do convertable cudas or b-bodys have thicker rockers than a hardtop?? I have a hardtop platform with good floors I might use but rockers might not be strong enough . are the convert ones beefed up?? doubled?? or the same. :scratchchin: Thanks again SBT

Like I said, John is a good guy, but the workers leave a lot to be desired, perhaps they do not know any different? Its a costly service there, $17500. Not saying you dont get a lot for your money, but based on the pictures I see, it looks like second rate work. Plus there are lots of extras he adds on to those jobs.
I am amazed at some of the pictures where he is putting a front clip on a car

Notice the fixtures and jigs.

And here is another great fixture and jig set up to be sure everything goes back together correctly and all the panels line up when there done


I could NEVER do a car like that. To me it is cut way to far apart to begin with. I couldnt do it. My guys wouldnt do it.
I guess he feels confident in the way its being done, but I am Horrified by what I see there, Just horrified.     :eek2:

Here is another rust repair they did on an E-body

Why they didnt buy a lower patch panel and just cut out all the old crap? Go Figga ? To me that repair looks like sh*t. 

Anyways, I am not 100% sure on the inner rocker thickness on the drop top, but I will know for sure, I just e-mailed e-booger and am waiting for a snappy reply. :icon_smile_tongue:
Nothing to see here folks, its just a Bluesmobile

superbirdtom

wow that last pic is insane !!.  i will wait till you talk to the e-body vert expart.  thanks  SBT

DW

Hey jdiesel, I live in the DFW area and have the same problem you do.  I found a guy who opened a shop about a year ago in Coppell.  A friend of mine has a Camaro Z28 that had been hacked up for racing, a home-made mini tub job that was a mess.  This guy tore it all out and rebuilt whole the back end.  It looks really good and he was reasonable on price.  I'm taking my 64 Belvedere to him tomorrow to have the front, middle and rear driver's side pans replaced, as well a 4-speed hump put in.  If you want I can let you know how it goes and maybe see if my buddy will let you check out his car if you want.  PM me with your name and phone if you want to discuss.

Darrell
1968 Dodge Coronet R/T.  Original 440/727.  B5 Blue with White Interior.  1964 Plymouth Belvedere 383/4-speed.  65 Coronet 4-Dr with poly stroker.

jdiesel33

Let me know how it goes. That would be great. Coppell is right around the corner. I appreciate your response.
1968 Dodge Charger R/T
PP1,Black Hat, Black Stripes