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Anybody here have these XV Motorsports items?

Started by 69bronzeT5, December 27, 2008, 12:09:28 AM

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69bronzeT5

I'm looking for feedback on the Engine Compartment brace, radiator support, inner fender braces & sub-fame Connectors. How are they quality wise? What does the engine compartment brace do? How would one install the radiator support? I'm looking for feedback and pictures of them installed in your guy's cars. Thanks!
Feature Editor for Mopar Connection Magazine
http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/



1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1970 Challenger R/T: FC7 Plum Crazy 440 Automatic
1970 GTO: Black 400 Ram Air III 4-Speed
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
1972 Charger: FE5 Red 360 Automatic
1973 Charger Rallye: FY1 Top Banana 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Road Runner: FE5 Red 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Duster: FC7 Plum Crazy 318 Automatic

Rolling_Thunder

Have the inner fender braces and the lower rad support...    made my own subframe connectors and added torque boxes...    engine bay brace to follow once the hemi is installed...     I will probably make my own.   If your car is already painted forget the inner fender braces...   installing the side plates will toast your inner fender paint and cause some metal distortion from the weld penetration...     you can probably get away with the lower radiator support if you black it out after









Inner fender braces...     Good design and relatively good fit - you will have to cut and grind the plates and tubes for fitment...     My torque boxes from ART were a good fit but also required some snipping and grinding to fit...    overall - I love both products...

The lower radiator support was fun to install...    really...    drilled like 8 spot welds on each end and welded the new one in the place of the old one with the extention blocks....     went quick...   I however fabbed the radiator support opening down to it looks almost stock...   

engine compartment brace triangulates the inner fenders to the firewall and prevents flex of shock mounts by attaching both inner fenders together...    almost like a sway bar...    movement is limited due to the opposite end being anchored...    Mustang guys have used them for years...   known as "Monte Carlo Bars"
1968 Dodge Charger - 6.1L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.55 Sure Grip

2013 Dodge Challenger R/T - 5.7L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.73 Limited Slip

1964 Dodge Polara 500 - 440 / 4-speed / 3.91 Sure Grip

1973 Dodge Challenger Rallye - 340 / A-518 / 3.23 Sure Grip

69bronzeT5

Alex, so since I'm building my '69 for autocross, open road races and SCCA events, would getting these things be a good idea?
Feature Editor for Mopar Connection Magazine
http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/



1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1970 Challenger R/T: FC7 Plum Crazy 440 Automatic
1970 GTO: Black 400 Ram Air III 4-Speed
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
1972 Charger: FE5 Red 360 Automatic
1973 Charger Rallye: FY1 Top Banana 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Road Runner: FE5 Red 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Duster: FC7 Plum Crazy 318 Automatic

Rolling_Thunder

I plan on doing some road racing with my Charger as well...   

I figure the factory torque boxes were installed for a reason so I added them...   subframe connectors are always a good idea...

I would say the inner fender braces are awesome pieces and definately worth it...         

The lower radiator support is definately a good idea as well...   the two frame rails are currently tied together by a FLIMSY piece...       

if you're going SCCA with it...   I would do the engine bay brace as well just got grins...      XV did their homework on their stuff and I can see how every piece proves to be functional and practical....     if your car is going to be totally stripped anyway it wouldnt cost much for these things to be added.
1968 Dodge Charger - 6.1L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.55 Sure Grip

2013 Dodge Challenger R/T - 5.7L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.73 Limited Slip

1964 Dodge Polara 500 - 440 / 4-speed / 3.91 Sure Grip

1973 Dodge Challenger Rallye - 340 / A-518 / 3.23 Sure Grip

69bronzeT5

Thanks Alex! Even though I have a 383, I guess it wouldn't hurt to get torque boxes installed to? My plan is to build it for road racing, autocross and SCCA solo events but also still be able to enjoy it on the street.
Feature Editor for Mopar Connection Magazine
http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/



1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1970 Challenger R/T: FC7 Plum Crazy 440 Automatic
1970 GTO: Black 400 Ram Air III 4-Speed
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
1972 Charger: FE5 Red 360 Automatic
1973 Charger Rallye: FY1 Top Banana 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Road Runner: FE5 Red 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Duster: FC7 Plum Crazy 318 Automatic

Rolling_Thunder

I'd do the torque boxes...    my engine is only a 370ci...    but a stiff chassis is never a bad thing for handeling....     I am actually going to "X" brace my framerails as well and make a integrated driveshaft loop just for kicks...    should also help - probably overkill but I honestly do not care...      my idea is do it while you can - and never go and say "i wish i would have"       I mean my 318 Satellite vert has torque boxes...    it has a 318 but the verts got them for added structural integrity - that says that the factory paid alot of R&D work to figure out how to stregnthen these cars...      I'd do everything I could...
1968 Dodge Charger - 6.1L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.55 Sure Grip

2013 Dodge Challenger R/T - 5.7L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.73 Limited Slip

1964 Dodge Polara 500 - 440 / 4-speed / 3.91 Sure Grip

1973 Dodge Challenger Rallye - 340 / A-518 / 3.23 Sure Grip

suntech

QuoteI'd do everything I could...

These parts costs "mickey mouse" money, compared to what you get back.
Not just handeling that improves, but keeps the body in the shape it is supposed to be, so gaps stay as they should, rear quarters dont crack, and doesnt make as much noise on bad roads (body flex).
It is a no brainer Cody :2thumbs:
Since we only live once, and all this is not just a dressed rehearsal, but the real thing............ Well, enjoy it!!!!

Rolling_Thunder

agreed - the parts really do not cost that much especially if you can do the installs yourself...     I had a buddy pop the rear window out of his 71 Challenger at the drag strip due to body flex...     that was an expensive repair...    he spent $750 on a piece of glass...     subframe connectors would have been around $50...     

Do all that you can now - that way you never have to take your car off the road later on to do it right    :Twocents:
1968 Dodge Charger - 6.1L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.55 Sure Grip

2013 Dodge Challenger R/T - 5.7L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.73 Limited Slip

1964 Dodge Polara 500 - 440 / 4-speed / 3.91 Sure Grip

1973 Dodge Challenger Rallye - 340 / A-518 / 3.23 Sure Grip

Mopar2Ya

Does the tower brace interfere w/the stock shock mounting?

I'd like to do all I can do also. I want to look stock, so I'm still unsure of the engine compartment shock brace. Are there any tricks/products for stiffening the rear/post axle section of the frame?
PS: Rustangs need shock tower braces, because they are built out of tinfoil.  :rofl: (I once owned a '68 fastback, I know but we all learn from our mistakes ha ha)

1970 Charger R/T
2006 GC SRT8

Rolling_Thunder

the engine bay brace does not interfere with the stock shock mounts... 

Rear frame rails are good to go as is....     you can always add the hemi stiffening plates be the rear spring hangers to resist flexing if you're uber worried about it.
1968 Dodge Charger - 6.1L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.55 Sure Grip

2013 Dodge Challenger R/T - 5.7L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.73 Limited Slip

1964 Dodge Polara 500 - 440 / 4-speed / 3.91 Sure Grip

1973 Dodge Challenger Rallye - 340 / A-518 / 3.23 Sure Grip

69bronzeT5

Feature Editor for Mopar Connection Magazine
http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/



1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1970 Challenger R/T: FC7 Plum Crazy 440 Automatic
1970 GTO: Black 400 Ram Air III 4-Speed
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
1972 Charger: FE5 Red 360 Automatic
1973 Charger Rallye: FY1 Top Banana 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Road Runner: FE5 Red 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Duster: FC7 Plum Crazy 318 Automatic