proper paper to use when painting car

[superbirdtom]

Just thought I would pass this paint tip along as I might do more in the future. All masking paper is not created equal .Now most car guys and painters already know this that it is best to use paint blocking masking paper when painting a car,Most people know that todays clears will go right through generic green masking paper. and some people use newspapers shopping bags anything to save $$$.

The best reason to use blocking paper : (1). the heavy clearcoat used nowadays will not penetrate it. (2). the biggest reason, is (scenario )that you have the car all tacked off ( crystal brand tack cloths are awesome!) you are all suited up you blow all the dust off yourself -you have all the wheelwells masked off the cracks blown out and you have done everything you can think of to cut out any chance of any particles popping out anywhere. but you are using green paper.

What happens when you spray your first coat of clear is that the paper fibers will curl up in some places .then your second coat will attach itself to those miniscule fibers sticking up forming little balls of clear on the ends of the fibers. Now your final third coat the little clear balls break off the microscopic curled up fibers and your saying damn@#$%^ where is all this stuff coming from in my paint job?  it is caused by using the cheapo green stuff.  3M has the gold blocking paper but is costly$$$   your local jobber should have a white clear solvent blocking treated paper that is like 12 bucks a roll. that is what I use vs the 3M at 30 bucks a roll.  theres many other brands  blue -red- color etc . I spray in a  AFC quadraft  downdraft booth where the entire floor is exhaust grates. and I still get particles . I figure if I get 3 particles per panel I am doing great!        just the painting tip of the day.  Stuart  was right this site is addicting.!!

[Chatt69chgr]

That's real good information to know.  Another thing is that basecoat/clearcoat systems contain vapors that will kill you thereby requiring a fresh air supply to your mask.  Also, the vapors are absorbed through bare skin so you have to cover your whole body.  They make inexpensive suits for this that are throw away.  The fresh air can be supplied by either a separate oilless compressor or a filter assembly that removes the oil from a standard compressor system.  I've only found one inexpensive oilless compressor for this and it costs around $500.  Then you need the full face mask with tear off mask covers.  It's around $300 as I recall.  Not sure how much the belt mounted filters for use with standard air compressor are but I don't think they are cheap.  Sure wish Harbor Freight would sell a oilless compressor for this application for a $100 or so.  They would sell a zillion of them.  I'd still probably buy the mask from a good USA source even if they had one at Harbor Freight.  Same for belt mounted filter. 

[vancamp]

That's real good information to know.  Another thing is that basecoat/clearcoat systems contain vapors that will kill you thereby requiring a fresh air supply to your mask.  Also, the vapors are absorbed through bare skin so you have to cover your whole body.  They make inexpensive suits for this that are throw away.  The fresh air can be supplied by either a separate oilless compressor or a filter assembly that removes the oil from a standard compressor system.  I've only found one inexpensive oilless compressor for this and it costs around $500.  Then you need the full face mask with tear off mask covers.  It's around $300 as I recall.  Not sure how much the belt mounted filters for use with standard air compressor are but I don't think they are cheap.  Sure wish Harbor Freight would sell a oilless compressor for this application for a $100 or so.  They would sell a zillion of them.  I'd still probably buy the mask from a good USA source even if they had one at Harbor Freight.  Same for belt mounted filter. 

or if you yourself or a friend is a firefighter you can use an scba and call it training

[superbirdtom]

That's real good information to know.  Another thing is that basecoat/clearcoat systems contain vapors that will kill you thereby requiring a fresh air supply to your mask.  Also, the vapors are absorbed through bare skin so you have to cover your whole body.  They make inexpensive suits for this that are throw away.  The fresh air can be supplied by either a separate oilless compressor or a filter assembly that removes the oil from a standard compressor system.  I've only found one inexpensive oilless compressor for this and it costs around $500.  Then you need the full face mask with tear off mask covers.  It's around $300 as I recall.  Not sure how much the belt mounted filters for use with standard air compressor are but I don't think they are cheap.  Sure wish Harbor Freight would sell a oilless compressor for this application for a $100 or so.  They would sell a zillion of them.  I'd still probably buy the mask from a good USA source even if they had one at Harbor Freight.  Same for belt mounted filter.  >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

yes I use a fresh air system from my belt to the compressor air . I have a huge oil seperator -air dryer system that goes through three different filters hood has faceshield with peel off sheets. i use this when i know I am going to be spraying a lot of stuff at head level. if I am going to be just spraying a side of a car i will just use my disposable 3m organic charcoal mask as my booth sucks so hard , it has 4 fans and as soon as you spray is whisks the paint right out through the floor. the entire floor is a grate. no dead spaces . the afc booths are kinda crude but very very dependable. I also use  shoot suit brand spray suits ,the entire back is breathable so you don't sweat to death. has hood with velcro cuffs for your nitrile disposable gloves.

I know theres lotsa shooting in garages going on and for that i would only use a fresh air system. be very cautious  ..SBT