News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

Dupont Centari Questions

Started by 69DodgeCharger, September 21, 2008, 01:37:26 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

69DodgeCharger

I'm using Dupont Centari to paint my car (70 Pontiac Turquoise Mist). My questions are these.

1. Can metallic acrylic enamel be wet sanded and then clearcoated without dulling the metallic in it?

2 If it can be wet sanded and cleared would it be the same process as a solid color acrylic enamel?

Thanks is advance for any ifo.

http://www.mypowerblock.com/profile/69DodgeCharger

The bugle sounds the charge begins. But on this battlefield no one wins.

hemi-hampton

As far as I know, NO, You can not sand a single stage metallic without removing, blotching, affecting the layout of the metallics. It can be done but it wont be pretty & it will have a nasty negative affect on it's look. You will have to Paint, then after flashing a few minutes Clear. Then wet sand & rub the clear. Only other way is after sanding single stage metallic is to add a couple more coats of metallic before clearing or just use a base coat or laquer coat instead of single stage. LEON.

69DodgeCharger

Thanks Leon,

I wanted to go base clear but too much money at the time. As far as spraying the clear on after flash, how long? how do I know it's ready? When it tacks? Which clear should I use that would be compatable? Pretty new to painting here.
http://www.mypowerblock.com/profile/69DodgeCharger

The bugle sounds the charge begins. But on this battlefield no one wins.

bill440rt

My  :Twocents::

Use the Centari in the jambs, in the trunk, engine compartment, etc. Spend the extra $$$ for the base/clear on the exterior. Sounds like your trying to find a way to use that Centari on the exterior to get the base/clear look without spending the dough. Not gonna happen. If you need to buy clear anyway, get the base while you're at it.
Good luck!  :2thumbs:
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

69DodgeCharger

Quote from: bill440rt on September 21, 2008, 06:17:59 PM
My  :Twocents::

Use the Centari in the jambs, in the trunk, engine compartment, etc. Spend the extra $$$ for the base/clear on the exterior. Sounds like your trying to find a way to use that Centari on the exterior to get the base/clear look without spending the dough. Not gonna happen. If you need to buy clear anyway, get the base while you're at it.
Good luck!  :2thumbs:

Yep Bill you pretty much nailed it. Want gold results for iron prices. Guess I will probably just spray it and hope for the best. Like most people anymore spending even one extra penny at this point isn't an option. So anybody got any tips for spraying Centari through a cheap ($100) ATD gravity feed gun? My buddy swears cup guns are the only way to go and that it won't turn out if I use my gun. Any thoughts?
http://www.mypowerblock.com/profile/69DodgeCharger

The bugle sounds the charge begins. But on this battlefield no one wins.

dads_69

I've done it many times. As long as you apply 3 to 4 coats of single stage color you'll be fine. Wet sand evenly with 1200 or 1500 then clear. You can also like stated clear over your fresh paint, at least a 15 minute flash time before doing so if you chose, also known as coctailing the paint. One or two coats of clear then cut and buff with 2000.
I've wet sanded single stage the next day and been fine. Both soild color and metalic using DCC, Dupont, Martin Senour. Never a problem.


Mark
Hey, you can hate the game but don't hate the player.

dads_69

Paint gun, HVLP only way to go. 1.3 tip or 1.4 depending on gun style, Sata, Devilbiss GTI, Sharpe etc... Cheap guns, sorry I've never needed to use them in my line of work. 50 % overlap though while spraying remember. Starting from the bottom may also be helpful, just another idea.
Hey, you can hate the game but don't hate the player.

69DodgeCharger

Hey Dad thanks for the tips. So are you saying my gun is up to the task? So why would 3-4 coats not be dull after wet sanding? Are you recommending the clearcoat after flash? or wet sand and clear method? What about paint mix/ratios? My gun does very poorly with thick paint mixes. It is a 1.4 tip. 1 quart cup. I have had my best results spraying very thin paint (rustoleum watered down with acrylic enamel reducer) My gun says 10psi max on the cap, but results vary depending on paint mix thickness. (thicker needs more psi) I may not be able to afford to repaint this car for a long time....Hell at this point in this economy I am just hoping to be able to hold onto it! So I am trying to do the best I can with what I have and weather and temperature are working against me at this point in northern Michigan Anyways any and all tips will be glady taken at this point.
http://www.mypowerblock.com/profile/69DodgeCharger

The bugle sounds the charge begins. But on this battlefield no one wins.

71RT4ME

Clearing over Centari works well.I have done it for years.Makes a very durable finish that has better depth than base/clear,and better adhesion too. DO NOT sand the metallic Centari before clearing.This will alter the metallics and ruin the appearance.Non metallics are no problem. I like to spray the Centari with the 792 catalyst,then clear it the next day.I have had super results with the 7500 and 8500 clears for years,but there are different clears available.Check with you paint rep,but basically any Urethane clear will be compatible.Given the choice-I would use Centari[or other brands of acrylic urethane enamel] and clear before base/clear every time.

hemi-hampton

When I worked at MAACO back in the late 80's 20 years ago I painted 8 cars a day, 1 per hour, All in single stage enamel. Not Centari but cheap synthetic Western acrylic enamel. BUT, What i'm getting at if if your are good & experianced at spraying a single stage metallic you'll be able to spray/lay down a nice even non zebra stripped non blotchy or non mottlely coat of paint with no need to even clear at all. Since single stage dries with a gloss it is not necessary or mandatory to rub or clear at all. Rubbing or clearing is optional on these types of paint, not mandatory. If you really wanted to save money you could buy a cheap gallon of Western or Omni single stage for less $100 including Hardener/catalyst & Reducer. Don't even buy the clear. But,if your not that good at spraying a single stage then you can put on drier to get even & knowing your going to clear to help save you. Fact is I would not recommend Single stage metallic for a beginner. Dads approach may work but I've never tried it. Mainly because I dont like the idea of painting or clearing over 1500 grit or anything finer then 1000 after I seen a fellow painter (not me) take a power washer to his car after painting & blow all the clear off it because he cleared over 1000grit & in my opinion did not have enough adhesion to it being so fine. Just my opinion, I know others will disagree, I guess it will stick & be fine as long as you dont power wash or do over 100mph. LEON.

69DodgeCharger

Well Leon I am a very newbie painter. I know what needs to be done pretty much but very little experience spraying. I want to get the best results I can with my limited resources and budget. Single stage air compressor, cheap gravity feed gun. no ventilation system other than a fan and the garage door. So anybody got any tips to ge this car halfway presentable.....other than selling it!..... :lol:
http://www.mypowerblock.com/profile/69DodgeCharger

The bugle sounds the charge begins. But on this battlefield no one wins.

bill440rt

If you insist on clearing over Centari, do yourself a favor & talk to the paint jobber where you purchased the Centari from. Pull up some DuPont tech sheets on Centari & read them over thoroughly. Talk to the jobber & find out what his recommendation is on what clear you can use over Centari. I would NOT use anything other than a DuPont clear.
Also, I would NOT sand before clearing, this will alter the metallic layout.

Here's another idea: You already HAVE the Centari & other paint materials, right? Why not do all the prep work, blocking, etc & take the car with your materials to a competent shop & have their painter paint the car for you? For the extra $$ you'll spend on clear & risk messing it up, you can put the $$$ into having it sprayed for you & NOT WORRY about it. It shouldn't cost that much if all they have to do is spray it. Think it over as a last resort. Otherwise, if it doesn't come out the way you want, it'll cost you DOUBLE.
:Twocents:
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

69DodgeCharger

Thanks Bill,

Actually I have been offered use of a spray booth by a friend that owns a local body shop. I just didn't want to mess with transporting the car (pay) But on the otherhand that is some pretty sound advice and would probably give me my best results in this situation. I still have to finish a little prep work on the quarters and trunk lid anyways. So I guess that will give me time to set something up.....Thanks to all once again!
http://www.mypowerblock.com/profile/69DodgeCharger

The bugle sounds the charge begins. But on this battlefield no one wins.

jerry

you will have to wet sand and buff because of the dirt. i guess all the old pro's forgot this. :yesnod:

69DodgeCharger

Quote from: jerry on September 22, 2008, 08:06:29 PM
you will have to wet sand and buff because of the dirt. i guess all the old pro's forgot this. :yesnod:

I don't know if they forgot it, it's just not really an option with my choice of a single stage metallic enamel. Dad's method might work but all the extra cost and work isn't really an option either as I will be moving very soon. That is the main reason I want to get this car sprayed as soon as possible. Guess I better get to finishing my prep work and setting up a time for that paint booth......Unless somebody's got a better idea?
http://www.mypowerblock.com/profile/69DodgeCharger

The bugle sounds the charge begins. But on this battlefield no one wins.

The70RT

What's the big hurry? If it's the weather then finish the body work if it is minimal and get it painted. If you wait though and not hurry you will be more happy in the long run.  :Twocents:
<br /><br />Uploaded with ImageShack.us

69DodgeCharger

Quote from: The70RT on September 22, 2008, 09:06:31 PM
What's the big hurry? If it's the weather then finish the body work if it is minimal and get it painted. If you wait though and not hurry you will be more happy in the long run.  :Twocents:

I just figured in this economy and with the oncoming second Great Depression I didn't want to wait at all if I ever wanted to drive it in  my lifetime.7-8 dollar a gallon gas (or more) kind of makes it impossible. Plus I will be moving to a place where my shop will be an old hay barn in not to good of shape. (paid for, bank can't take it)
http://www.mypowerblock.com/profile/69DodgeCharger

The bugle sounds the charge begins. But on this battlefield no one wins.

jaak

I don't have any paint advise, just like to say thats a cool color you picked out, I like it!

Jason

69DodgeCharger

Thanks Jason,

I wanted something different and this is what I ended up going with.  Me and a friend were at a "private" junkyard out in the woods getting a disc brake setup from a  74 Duster for his 68 Valiant and sitting right next to the Duster was a 70 Lemans in this color and I really liked it so I decided to go with it instead of your standard Mopar colors. Here's a better look. It looks great in the sunlight.

http://www.mypowerblock.com/profile/69DodgeCharger

The bugle sounds the charge begins. But on this battlefield no one wins.

hemi-hampton

JERRY,  Do you think for $149.95 Maaco Presidential They would have me wet sand & rub anything :smilielol: :smilielol:. Never rubbed a car at Maaco, Dont exist there, not when I worked there. I didn't have much dirt but did have a spray booth & a Oven connected to end of booth that car baked at 160 degrees for 30 minutes in. Of Course, Acrylic enamel being slower drying combined with a dirty garage could contribute to a dirt problem. Best bet I'd say is just let Maaco paint it for $300 & call it done. You could spend just $300 in clear with Hardener & reducer. LEON.