Axle shaft installation 8.75

[WH23G3G]

On my 8.75 I have the right side wheel seal installed, but I forgot to put silicone RTV around the outside of it before I installed it. Do you have to do that?  How do I remove the seal on the other side? One side already had a seal missing, so I didn't have to do anything but install it. Now a regular seal puller won't fit into the axle tube to pull it out. What do I need? Do I need an actual seal installer to pop in the new seal? I used a slide hammer handle to pop it back in. How much grease needs to be smeared all over the axle shaft bearings? I can't pack it like a front wheel bearing since it's already pressed on the shaft. Does it matter which axle shaft I install first, right or left?

[tecmopar]

As long as the inside of the axle tube is clean and not gouged up then you shouldn't need any sealer on the outside of the seal. I use a seal driver but most guys don't have them so the next best thing is something that is just a tad smaller then the outside diameter of the seal and solid so you can drive it in straight without bending the seal. If you have a slide hammer you can put a hook in the end and slap the other seal out. You may have to make something up if you don't have a hook attachment. Install the drivers side axle first and just snug it up, not tight, just snug then on the passenger side axle unscrew the adjuster nut so its flush with the back side of the collar  and install that axle and snug it. Now go back to the DS axle and give it a few taps with a dead blow or brass hammer to seat the bearing and tighten the nuts to 35lbs. Back on the PS tighten the adjuster to remove all end play and give it a couple of taps to seat that bearing and tighten those nuts as well, now loosen the adjuster about a 1/4 turn and measure the in and out end play, you want about .010 to .020 end play. Once its set install the lock hook on one of the studs and lock it in place, your done. As far as greasing the bearings you will need to do it by hand or use a pin tip, for U-joints, in your grease gun and load it up between each roller, turn it, load it again. Good luck.

[ryan053]

i use the end of the axle to pop out the old seal.  I used some pvc pipe to install the seal.  Just make sure it is fully seated and evenly seated.

[WH23G3G]

Ok I've got the seals in. Those aren't easy ones to get in, because the metal lip of the seal always gets snagged on the groove in the housing. I didn't notice any damage to the seal when installing it, just hopefully it won't start leaking as soon as I drive. I've followed the instructions here just like you'll have said and referring to the factory manual. I've started with the driver's side axle. I never really took all the grease out of the bearing, just made sure it turned good with no noticeable drag and it seemed ok. I didn't know how to load it up with grease prior to the post here, so I just put a fair amount and rubbed it all over the bearing, but didn't load it up like on the front bearings. In the factory service manual it says to rub a small amount of grease on the outside of the bearing collar to protect from corrosion. I put the foam gasket on the flange studs then the brake plate and the metal gasket and snugged up the flange bolts. But I can't really tighten them because I can't turn the flange so I can access all the nuts. Is that because the other axle isn't in? I wanna make sure everything checks ok before I start buttoning everything up.

[tecmopar]

Just get the other side in and started so you can go back to the DS and tighten them up. Once the PS is started you can turn the other one without any problems, good luck.

[WH23G3G]

I've got everything in by factory specs. Turning the shaft flanges by hand is very hard. But when I put on a tire and turn it, it's a little easier, but tight. There's no gear oil at all in the rear axle. Is that causing the hard turning of the shafts by hand? It's a lot easier to turn by the pinion flange. I want to make sure before I start putting all the brakes on. I need to get a dial indicator stand to check the endplay. Because I don't know how to judge what's reasonable by feel. There's just a hint of in and out movement of the shafts. I never messed with the adjuster when I took it out and when I put the lock back in there was no need to turn the adjuster to get the tooth lined up. Should everything be the same as before I took it out? I had the center chunk looked at by an old mechanic who's been doing heavy repair for probably 30-40 years and he checked everything out and said it all looked new inside the chunk. He said he tightened the lock things, don't know the names of them, on each side of the chunk because they were a little out of adjustment. He also checked the pinion bearing and put in a new seal. Before the yoke was a lot looser and had some play in it, so he told me he tightened it because of that fact.

[tecmopar]

Just by what he did would make it a little tighter and probably better. If you can turn the axle's by hand but it feels tight and turning it at the yoke is easier then it sounds good, just try to set the end play. If you can't get a dial indicator you can use 2 other methods, one is a dial caliper that reads in thousanths or you can go by the book and bottom out the adjuster and back it off 4 or 5 notches. I've tried this once or twice just for sh*ts and giggles and both times it came out to about .015 -.016, good luck.

[WH23G3G]

I told the mechanic how things went with turning the axles by the flanges and he said being a sure-grip it should be harder to turn than a standard differential. Plus it's better now that I have it filled with the limited slip additve and 80w-90. Everything feels right. End play is about right according to the factory method with backing it off. So now I just got to put on the brakes and brake lines.

[tecmopar]

Sounds like your all set so go get 'em and good luck.

[SpudRacer]

I could use some help on this topic as well.  First off, I tore into the passenger side and pulled out the axle shaft after removing all the brake hardware.  The reason was because I noticed some gear oil on the rear rim on that side.  Once I got it apart, I did not see any grease on the wheel bearing, but there was a puddle of gear lube.  My guess was that the inner axle seal was leaking with the the oil washing out all the grease.

I have new axle seals on order (inner and outer), as well as the flange gaskets (metal and foam).  My question is this.  How does one get the wheel bearings off to change the outer seal?  Should I just not worry about it and change just the inner seal?  I tried putting the axle assy in the deep freeze, then lightly heating the bearing collar, but the axle heated up just as quickly and it never even got a little loose, so I guess you need some sort of puller.   FSM says to destroy the bearing and collar to get it out.  Is this right?!

I've checked out the wheel bearing and it seems fine, but I hate to put it all back together and then have wheel grease squeezing past the outer seal, eventually resulting in inadequate lubrication to the bearing, followed by failure.  I figure if the oil got past it, grease might too.

What does everyone think?  I've got a week to figure this out before my seals get here from Ohio.

I also ordered a new style transmission seal.  I resealed that darn thing last year with a cork gasket, and it was leaking again within a week, but only if it sat for a few days, I'm assuming the convertor is draining back into the pan, but that shouldn't cause it to leak.

Tom
Bryson City, NC
69' R/T SE

[Belgium R/T -68]

I guess pressing them of is the best way but mine were sitting so hard I had to use the grindmachine, the press only managed 20 ton.

[SpudRacer]

Bump...

Anyone know how to pull the rear wheel bearings without destroying them?

Tom
Bryson City, NC

[tecmopar]

The rear axle bearings have to be cut to remove them, just for the hell of it we tried and even with the best bearing splitter and a lot of jury rigging on the press they always got ruined. Just follow the service manual and spend for new ones, good luck.

[SpudRacer]

I just got the rear axle inner seals I ordered off eBay from FrederickChryslerJeepDodge in Ohio.  The seals I got have a 2-1/2" OD, but the seals I pulled out are bigger and have an OD of 2-11/16" .  I have a Chrysler 8-3/4" rear end (PN 2881489).  So what gives??  I need to order the right seals, but now I don't know what to order.

Anyone have a clue?  Can you help me out?  Even the Dana 60 and the Chrysler 9-3/4" use the 2-1/2" inner axle seal according to Fredericks.  I looked in my restoration book, I looked in the FSM, and at Year One's site.  I can't figure it out.

Confused in NC
Tom

[tecmopar]

What you can do is just call your local AP store, NAPA, Autozone etc etc and have them order a set for a '69 Charger with a 383 automatic. I can't see how they can screw that up plus theres no shipping involved AND you can go down there and compare them before you buy. You would be suprised at how common these things are, good luck.

[SpudRacer]

I already went to my local Autozone.  They found them in the computer, but then told me he couldn't order them.

Maybe the ones in my axle were the wrong ones and weren't seated all the way?  They appeared seated to me when I pulled them out...  I really need help with this.  My R/T is sitting in the driveway in the rain up on jackstands.  I'd really like to get it back in the garage.

Tom
Bryson City, NC

[tecmopar]

Tom, I don't know what to say but I can go to either NAPA or Advance Auto Parts right up the road and get them in one day. I don't know why your guy can't order them, again they are pretty common. If you really need to get the car in the garage just slide the axles in, put 2 nuts on the retainers and push it in, you won't hurt anything, good luck.

[SpudRacer]

OK, I reordered a second set of inner seals from Ratech.com and they were a perfect fit.  I need help with another problem, please guys bear with me...  I didn't feel comfortable putting it back together without replacing the outer seals, hence I had to destroy the old bearings.  I decided to use a small fiber cutting wheel and a die-grinder and cut them off perfectly without any damage to the shafts.  Then I pounded out the old wheel lugs.  I am now down to the bare shafts and will be sandblasting the outer area, then probably clear-coating with satin-finish before installing new wheel lugs.

Here's the question... I've read both good and bad about the "Green Bearings".  I've decided to order a new set of stock mopar bearings in lieu of going with green bearings.  I ordered them from RockAuto, but does anyone know where to find the collar that goes on after the bearings?  Will they come with the bearings?  Also, do they have to be installed by a machine shop?  Or can you heat them up in an oven, put the axle shafts in the deep freeze, then tap them on with a piece of pipe?  Or best to have it done by a machine shop with a press?

Really appreciate the advise.

Tom
Bryson City, NC

[tecmopar]

Tom, they need to be installed using a press and slippy grease so I guess you'll have to go to a shop for that one. Call Rockauto and make sure about the collars, they are available seperately but can sometimes be hard to get. Most rear axle bearings come with it because they know you had to cut off the old one and I hate to sound like a broken record but I have always used NAPA ( corporate stores, not independants ) for these. The last kit I bought about 2 years ago still came as the complete kit, outer seal, bearing, inner seal, collar, gasket and foam and depending on which side it included the axle retainer and adjuster, not cheap but well worth it. I still may have the boxes for them so I'll check and see if I can get you their part #'s.

[SpudRacer]

Much appreciated.  I've got L/H thread wheel studs on the left rear, and R/H wheel studs at the other three corners.  I'm currently searching for anyone hoarding any L/H thread studs (front and rear).  If you know of anyone, please let me know. I want to stay stock and will only convert to R/H threads if I have no options.  For now, I plan to clean up the old studs and reuse them unless I can find new ones.  I'm willing to pay for the right parts.

Thanks again,

Tom
Bryson City, NC