Brake Junction Box?

[tommymac]

What is the small box down on the frame that all the brake lines go to. It has a wire to it also. Would this ever plug up or restrict braking action? What is the wire for.Hey ive owned this car for 25 years and never had these braking problems,or had to mess with any of this stuff!!!!ARUGHHHH

[FLG]

I believe your referring to the proportion valve. It simply, well; proportions the front and rear brakes. It could go bad, but what problem are you having with the brakes?

[histoy]

I think that the wire goes to a warning light on your dash alerting you if there is a brake failure (i.e. fluid loss) on either the front or rear brakes.  The pressure differential shifts the spool valve inside and activates the warning light.   Someone please correct me, if i'm wrong.

[tommymac]

I have a soft-almost to the floor pedal,then some brakes apply,I don't know if they are front or back. I've done everything,but the master clyinder.A new one comes on Friday,NAPA.New Wagner,60.00,Then I'll see maybe.Also I cant afford new discs now ;next year.

[y3chargerrt]

Make sure you bench bleed the master cylinder before you install it.

[tommymac]

do I also need to bleed all wheels again?

[Musicman]

What year is this car? Is this for the 68?... It sounds like the piece that you are referring to is a "Distribution Block" which contains a "Hydraulic Safety Switch", but no Proportioning Valve. The wire that you spoke of is attached to the Brake Warning Light in your dash. A picture would be great.

[Chatt69chgr]

I have a 69 Charger that is currently equipped with non-power drum brakes at all 4 corners.  It uses the distribution block exactly like Musicman posted.  From your description of the brake problem, it sounds exactly like a master cylinder.  Get on the internet and look up how to bench bleed a master.  Then, after you have installed the master, bleed the brakes at all four corners.  I usually start at the brake the fartherest from the master which would be the right rear.  Then do the left rear.  Then the passenger side front and finally, the left front.  I put a little hose on the bleeder screw and stick the other end in a coke bottle.  I get someone to gently pump up the brakes and then open the bleeder screw and let the fluid squirt out and then quickly close the screw to prevent air from getting back in the lines.  Don't pump it too hard or you will get air bubbles in the fluid.  Keep doing that at each corner until clear new fluid comes out.  Make sure to keep the master filled.  Stick the cap back on or when the person is pumping the pedal, brake fluid will spray out all over everything in the engine compartment----and brake fluid can eat paint.  When you finish, the warning light on the dash may still be on.  The brakes will work fine but the plunger in the picture Musicman attached has moved one direction or the other.  Try bleeding one of the fronts.  If that doesn't get the light to go out, then rebleed one of the rears.  One of these operations should cause the light to extinguish.   There is nothing in the box that can possibly cause the brakes to malfunction no matter whether the little plunger freezes in position or not.  Don't forget that the brake warning bulb may be bad.  I think you can test it by turning the key to the on position without starting the car.  It should light.  Someone else will have to confirm this since my car has never been operational by me (excepting the 20 ft I drove it into the garage before I started tearing it apart).   

[Musicman]

  That information is correct, and is a good place to start.
It sounds to me like you had a leak in the front or the rear brake system somewhere, your brake warning light should be lit if it's not burnt out. It could very well be the master cylinder as well, but check your brake light on the dash first. You may have a bad line or a leaky wheel cylinder, and that's a lot cheaper to fix.

[tommymac]

Thanks for all the Info Fellas,Ive done all that stuff,just was unshure of that Block.My light works for E brake.Ill install the New master when I get it,Then let you all know.

[tommymac]

Whitch one is that,I though it was the large red square on the left under headlight switch

[Ghoste]

There isn't a chrome bezel on the underside of the dash that says "brake"?

[Musicman]

Whitch one is that,I though it was the large red square on the left under headlight switch

Sorry my mistake... 68 did use the same indicator for both...

Mike (old and easily confused sometimes) 

[tommymac]

Well installed new master,and quite an improvement,just have to take the old front drums to this WATKINS PLACE AND I'LL HAVE ALL NEW DRUMS,oop's sorry .Stupid vacume pump is noisy and rattles. all tight though.

[bordin34]

My 73 Charger does the same thing, the brake are almost to the floor before they work, the brake warning light is off but works. I bled the rears and that did nothing to help. Could I have a bad master cylinder.

[Musicman]

Could be a bad master... plug the outputs and try it, if it sill fades you have a bad master.

If you have a Disc/Drum combo, then maybe you are missing the 10 psi residual pressure valve for the rear line. This will cause a low pedal situation.

If you are using a Silicone brake fluid, the fluid may be old and aerated which can also cause a spongy pedal.

There's a lot of things that can cause this stuff, but if the system was working just fine before, then it's usually a bad master.

[tommymac]

My problem was some grease on the shoes,and worn drums,I think,also bad master,I got a brand new one from NAPA,Snapcap-Large reservoir.