509 cam 383 what Stall?

[darrin75]

ok, if I go with a 3000 rpm converter, do i need a new flexplate, what about bolt size I think the 727 is using 5/16 ? But the one I want is  7/16-20 in for hemi style.  I want to buy all I need at one time here?

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=TCI%2D142200&N=700+4294865449+4294905607+4294865436+400252+115&autoview=sku

I still like to know the answer to this question, even some people have time to make fun, instead of help, why don't some of you guys be more like nacho and firefighter?

[Steve P.]

Here's a link to a good flex plate. It will work with your neutral balanced motor.

http://www.440source.com/flexplates.htm


You are not getting the kind of answers you want because you want to work around the problem instead of taking it head on. Your cam is just not going to do it with anything else you have in your combo. Replacing everything AROUND your cam is the wrong way to go.. If you were to do the homework and buy all the high dollar stuff you will need to make your cam happy you would not want to drive it on the street.

Do yourself a huge favor and start thinking about a great combo WITHOUT that cam..

[firefighter3931]

  with Steve....we're on the same page as far a your combo is concerned.

Darrin, many of us have been in your shoes ; overcammed/mismatched combo....and no matter how much you band-aid it you won't be happy in the end. 


Ron

[Steve P.]

with Steve....we're on the same page as far a your combo is concerned.

Darrin, many of us have been in your shoes ; overcammed/mismatched combo....and no matter how much you band-aid it you won't be happy in the end. 


Ron

And you will spend more money trying to fix instead of replace.... 

[deputycrawford]

     Darrin, I truly apologize. You are right. I just make fun of the guys who throw out words they don't know the meaning to. I should have held my tongue. I would pull the .590 cam. No matter what you do, you will have a pig at part throttle and low revs. The top end charge will be strong but will never make the time up you lost in the bog and lazy low end. Part with the cam and you will not have to buy all the stuff to make up for the old technology.

[darrin75]

thanks guys, for all the info, I really do truly understand what you telling me, however the 509 cam sound awesome, and the real problem lies with me actually getting someone to replace the cam, that i really trust to do it.  I am not really looking to race the car, my main concern is  more torque at low end. Also I just want the car to not try to stall when putting it under a load.  Replacing the cam is something I am maybe going to do in the future.

[darrin75]

Just for fun this is what the guy who built my ehgine emailed me before i bought the engine.


Rebuilt Mopar 383 Engine & Transmmission Note:
OK here is the scoop on the 383 and trans.There will be all NEW PARTS unless stated,I will start at the top of the motor,750 Holley carb,Used single plane intake painted nice,Chrome valve covers,chrome air cleaner,452 heads with a 3 angle valve job and hardened seats for unleaded premium,509 cam and lifters,pushrods,timing chain,pistons 10 to 1 compression so you can still drive arround town on unleaded premium,pistons Keith Black,with there rings,chrome pan,Crank turned 20 and 20,rods rebuilt,water pump,fuel pump,filters and synthetic 10W40 oil after the break-in run,and of course all new gaskets.Only thing used is the intake I keep them in stock and new holley carbs for customers all the time.727 trans Fresh and stock convertor

[Runner]

     not everyone wants the same thing out of every engine combo.  but going in just know that a 509 camed 383 will want alot of gear and converter. you can get away with a 3000 stall but it would work alot better with a 3800 ish.  and id think at least a 3.91 and a set of 4.57s would make it even more fun.  some people here get all uptight about running alot of gear  bnut it all depends on what your doing with the car.  if you want to criuse down the freeway all the time then alot of gear is a real pain, but if your mostly enjoying the car around town  then its not an issue at all.      i will also add that i cant see myself ever putting a 509 or 484 cam in any engine ever again, i think there is alot better choices out there.  a real pleasant 383 cam is a crane 272h.


       as far as the flex plate you can get a mp sfi flexplate with the 7/16 bolt holes for around 20 bucks if you find a decent dealer. 

[66mopar]

I have a guestion was the cam degreed in?
I put a small block together this summer with a comp cam and timing chain which as everyone knows in good stuff. I was going to just put the cam in straight up but a local racer convince me that I was a idiot if I didn't degree the cam in. I'm sure glad I did.
When I degreed the cam in it was 2 degrees retarded which will kill bottom in power. I used a 4 advance degree key to correct this problem. The local mopar racer said he had degreed many cams over the years and he said he had seen cams with as much as 8 degrees retard which would really kill bottom end power. From what you describe it sure sounds like the cam needs to be advanced.
While this is a fairly large cam I think you could do you home work and advance the cam a little and see a big improvement.

Just so you know when the cam is advanced you gain bottem end power and lose a some top end and when the cam is retarded you lose bottom end and gain top end power.
I hope this helps.

 

[darrin75]

Just for fun this is what the guy who built my ehgine emailed me before i bought the engine.


Rebuilt Mopar 383 Engine & Transmmission Note:
OK here is the scoop on the 383 and trans.There will be all NEW PARTS unless stated,I will start at the top of the motor,750 Holley carb,Used single plane intake painted nice,Chrome valve covers,chrome air cleaner,452 heads with a 3 angle valve job and hardened seats for unleaded premium,509 cam and lifters,pushrods,timing chain,pistons 10 to 1 compression so you can still drive arround town on unleaded premium,pistons Keith Black,with there rings,chrome pan,Crank turned 20 and 20,rods rebuilt,water pump,fuel pump,filters and synthetic 10W40 oil after the break-in run,and of course all new gaskets.Only thing used is the intake I keep them in stock and new holley carbs for customers all the time.727 trans Fresh and stock convertor


Ok you guys are right, I have to say,  I put a 3000- 3500  stall converter in and It made a great difference, but still slower off the line now.  I run about 2800-3100 rpms at cruise speed at about 60 -70 mph.  So I am in to changing the cam like you said, should have listen but some guys like me got to learn the hard way i guess.  So I still have the 3.23 gears in the rear.  If i change the 509 cam to something better woul I lose alot of low end with that big stall I have in the car now etc.  I heard you all the first time ,and NOW I listen...Thanks Guys

[darrin75]

Ok you guys are right, I have to say,  I put a 3000- 3500  stall converter in and It made a great difference, but still slower off the line now.  I run about 2800-3100 rpms at cruise speed at about 60 -70 mph.  So I am in to changing the cam like you said, should have listen but some guys like me got to learn the hard way i guess.  So I still have the 3.23 gears in the rear.  If i change the 509 cam to something better woul I lose alot of top end with that big stall I have in the car now etc.  How about streetable?  I heard you all the first time ,and NOW I listen...Thanks Guys

[Steve P.]

 

[Purple440]

Have you looked at the K58?  I think the duration is 230@.050 which is smaller than your's (248@.050?) but might give you more mid range.