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8 3/4 Rear (green bearrings)

Started by 69chargerdad, September 21, 2005, 06:09:48 PM

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69chargerdad

We are replacing the bearings and seals on my 8 3/4 suregrip and have looked lightly into going with green bearings. Is there any special instalation required, such as machining parts of my rear differential. Any help is much appreciated.

                                              Marcus

firefighter3931

No special machining required....just have them pressed on and bolt em in. The axle end play adjustment is eliminated with the green bearings. You might have to remove the thrust button out of the suregrip unit.

Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

Just 6T9 CHGR

I've had them in my Charger for 7+ years with no problems
Chris' '69 Charger R/T


Ghoste

Not trying to rain on the parade here in any way, but what is the con to running them?  Or potential con, whatever it is.  I just remember that some folks didn't like them for some reason.

69chargerdad

Thanks for the replies. However how do you know if you have to remove the thrust button out of the suregrip, and if its neccescerry to remove it what is involved. this is our first time ever replacing bearings in a rear diff. thanks again

                                                                                              Marcus

John_Kunkel

Lots of folks don't like the Green bearings because they're a  ball bearing with limited side load carrying capacity. The factory style tapered bearing has superior side load capacity but the Greens seem to work well if they're installed correctly.

I personally believe that a lot of reported Green bearing failures are due to not removing the center thrust block. On installation, it's nearly impossible to determine if the bearings are being subjected to excessive side loads by the thrust block so removing it is the safest way.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

Just 6T9 CHGR

John, isnt the 742 case or the rebuildable clutch type Sure-Grip the only rear that has the thrust buttons?

My 489 cased spring type Sure-Grip didnt have them......
Chris' '69 Charger R/T


69chargerdad




    how do you know witch case you have???      Ken

Ghoste

By the casting numbers on the side.  When we talk about 742 or 741 or 489 whatever, it is the last three numbers of the casting.  If it is the original rearend in your car, it should be a 489 for 69.

69chargerdad




     Thanks  Ghoste .    I'll have a look at the casting numbers  this saterday     Ken :2thumbs: :cheers:

Chryco Psycho

Quote from: Just 6T9_CHGR.... on September 22, 2005, 03:37:24 PM
John, isnt the 742 case or the rebuildable clutch type Sure-Grip the only rear that has the thrust buttons?

My 489 cased spring type Sure-Grip didnt have them......
The clutch type sure grip uses the buttons which can be left out with green brgs installed , all other diffs use a 1 piece foating center bolck in the diff so the end play can still be set up , if this 1 piece block is left in the green brgs can have excess side load as john mentioned 

Sledge57

Quote from: Chryco Psycho on September 23, 2005, 02:31:03 AM.....
The clutch type sure grip uses the buttons which can be left out with green brgs installed , all other diffs use a 1 piece foating center bolck in the diff so the end play can still be set up , if this 1 piece block is left in the green brgs can have excess side load as john mentioned  

Neil how do you remove this block from a Detroit Locker?

Thanks,
Doug
POS Pedal Car
Best to Date: 11.93 @ 113.41


POS Pedal Car Vid

Chryco Psycho

you have to remove the locker & disassemble it to get the block out of any center section ... not cheap as the rear gears have to be reset to do this