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Floor~Pan

Started by tin_soldier, March 17, 2007, 05:48:56 PM

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tin_soldier

Good Day all,

I am a novice when it comes to any type of body work.  But after much reading and seeing other hack jobs I figure I can do better. (at least I think so)

Any way I started to replace my driver's side Floor pan which is coming along well.  I am at the phase where I am about ready to weld it in.  But before I do that, i wanted to get some thoughts. 

???

1 - Do I clean up the frame rails that are the inside where the Floor Pan will cover??  (Sand Blast/POR15)
2 - Do I leave the lip bare metal where I am to weld??
3 - Any other thoughts that experience has taught you and you are willing and kind enough to share.

bordin34

Anything that you will not be able to get to later and will be welded needs weld-thru primer.

1973 SE Brougham Black 4̶0̶0̶  440 Auto.
1967 Coronet Black 440 Auto
1974 SE Brougham Blue 318 Auto- Sold to a guy in Croatia
1974 Valiant Green 318 Auto - Sold to a guy in Louisiana
Mahwah,NJ

The70RT

I would clean inside the rails as much as possible. I used eastwoods rust encapulator inside mine. Like bordin34 said - weld thru primer on the conection joints.
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K9COP

hey hey, I'm about to do the same thing, I'm posting a continuing story in General Q and A... any more pics, and where did you choose to get the floors from?

Paul
I'd rather push a Charger than drive a Mustang.. which is lucky..

My cars:
'69/70 Charger 440
'03 Range Rover
'05 Audi A8R
'93 Lotus Omega (SOLD)
'97 Jag U Are XK8 (For Sale)
'68 Charger 318 (for sale)
'74ish Charger 400Magnum (sold)
'89 Nissan Skyline GTR (sold)
'92 Jeep Cherokee 9" lift (sold)
95 Crown Victoria Police K9 unit work car! (in the great impound lot in the sky..)

GTX

I'm all over this since I have my new floors, have most of the old stuff cleared out and plan to get to the job soon here.  Any ideas and hints are greatly appreciated.
:popcrn:

tin_soldier

Thanks for the tips guys.  I did not know of a weld through primer.  Great tip.   ;)

I got my Floor Pans at Autobodyspeicalties.  It is local to me @ 20 min away saved on shipping.  So far a great fit.  I plan to do the Trunk pan next, but that will not be until late summer.

Any helpful tps?? well this is what I was told:

Find the Factory welds ( you can basicaly see them and or feel them)  use a drill gun with a 5/16 or a little bit small drill bit to bore out the weld to the frame, but DO NOT GO THROUGH THE FRAME.  Unless you mean to.  After a slight bore I use a Hammer and a Chisle and pounded it up.  Next I used a Grinding wheel to soomth out the left over so the new pan will sit nice like. 

I opted to go from the firewall seem back for half the pan just becuase of ease to get the pan out.  I remove the drivers side fender and the seem is right there.  I drill that right through both the firewall seem and the floor pan seem.  So now when I but the new Floor Pan in the Firewall seem can weld to the new Floor pan.  See Pic.  Not the best shot but it is all I have right now.  I did not go all the way on that seem due to the fact the pan was okay there plus looks like a pain to go any father with the engine in as I do.

Again thanks for the thoughts I would welcome any other comments or ideas.

THX

The70RT

I think most use a spot weld cutter. I found the Napa ones are just as good as any. It it easier to weld at the factory seems but I would try to retain as much of the original as you can ....but butt welding is time consuming and will look sloppy unless you are a good welder. Butt welding also leads to a lot seam grinding. If your floor is really rusted bad then full pans would be best. Regardless it takes a lot of time to do a good job but us poor boys don't want to spend 500 or more for someone else to do it.
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