Disc brakes...I know I know:)

[umcandprops]

I know this has been rehashed tons of times but now there's so much info I could be a liitle confused....lol
I have the complete stock disc brake setup off a 73-76 A body and want to leave it all stock and not use the bigger 11 and 3/4"
rotors on my '70. Can I not just 'bolt on' all of it as is or do I have to mount the calipers to the rear with different hoses?
I have the proportioning valve...do I need bigger 'cups' out back on my 8 and 3/4". What's the best master cylinder to use...
ie stock dodge truck mid 80's or?
Thanx for any help:)
DonC

[tan top]

not 100% sure , but i think they can be mounted in the front  , because of the 70   & onwards  sway bar mounting on the lower control arm .  could be wrong though 

[70 Charger RT]

I'm doing mine right now.  I took the spindles and caliper adapters off of a 75 A Body.  You need to mount the calipers on the rear side to miss the front sway bar.  I'm using new A body brake hoses and relocated the steel lines to the front of the upper control arm.  It's critical that your tires do not rub the hoses.  I found quite a bit of wear on the ball joints and lower and upper control arm bushings so I'm replacing them too.  It's very common for the lower control arm bushings to wear out.  To change those, you need to back off the torsion bars and slide them back (after you remove the clip).  I bought a new A body master cylinder and instead of using a factory proportioning valve, I just used a "T" to split the lines for the front and installed an adjustable proportioning valve to control the pressure for the back.  The adjustable proportioning valves are available from SSBC or Wilwood.  If you have any questions, feel free to email me.

Randall

[CB]

To change those, you need to back off the torsion bars and slide them back (after you remove the clip). 
What you mean by that? Sorry for hijacking

[70 Charger RT]

In order to remove your lower control arms (so you can change the bushings) you need to remove the torsion bars.  To do that, underneath the lower control arm is a long bolt (3/4" socket) that you need to back off (counterclockwise) so that the tension on the torsion bar is removed.  Once this tension is removed, there is a small clip at the back end of the rear of the torsion bar.  Once this clip is removed, the torsion bar will slide back and out of the lower control arm.  It's tough going to move the bar backward.  I used a pair of old vise grips, gripped the bar, and hammered the vise grips rearward until the torsion bar fell out of the lower control arm.  If you have any other way to grip the bar and force it rearward, then try that method.  If you have any questions, let me know.

[umcandprops]

I mounted them to the front and it was to easy and everything clears...so far.

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[bull]

You might run into swaybar clearance problems but when people talk about these clearance problems they are usually referring to the setup with the large rotors/calipers on A-body spindles, so I don't know if the smaller ones are an issue. The problem is swaybar-to-caliper interference so it stands to reason the smaller setup might be ok.

You can use either cup expanders in the rear wheel cylinders or install a residual pressure valve in line after the proportioning valve.

There's a debate on the master cylinders. Many people will tell you you need a disc brake master while others will say the original drum brake master will work as long as you keep a close eye on the fluid level. I'm not sure what I believe yet.