Quick advice needed on 383 block purchase this afternoon

[bull]

This isn't rocket science but I need some quick advice on what to look for on a 383 engine block I'm looking to buy. It's a "383 core block w/main caps for $75" that the guy says is a '68 model. I'm going this afternoon and I just want to make sure I know what I'm doing because it's been quite a while since I've had an engine out. What years are compatable with my late '67 block? I know some of the later 383s were externally balanced but I can't remember if that has anything to do with the block. How do you look for cracks? What was the exact stock bore (I'm taking calipers) and how much lip would there be before it needs to be bored beyond stock? What am I forgetting?

[bull]

I got some advice from a couple guys at work so I thought I'd run it by you here. Both of them said short of having the block tanked and fluxed it would be pretty difficult to find any cracks in it. One of them suggested I look for the possibility of a bearing being spun, indicated by blue marks where the crank sits. Another told me to look for rust pitting in the cylinder walls that could screw up the possibility of boring it enough to clean up. Anything else?

[471_Magnum]

Compatibility shouldn't be an issue.

Not much you can check on the spot. Check for heavy scoring of the cylinders. Look for any markings indicating whether or not it has been overbored previously. Also, as mentioned previously, check for any bluing.

[Charger_Fan]

  As far as cracks go, it's hard to see them without magnafluxing, a lot of the time...other than obvious huge ones.
Make sure it doesn't have any broken ears (motor mount, bellhousing, etc.).

[MOPARHOUND!]

Stock bore for a 383 is 4.25".  I have heard of them being bored beyond .060" over, but sonic check would be in order to do this.  I have a 383 bare block with a .070" overbore, which puts it at 4.32", the stock bore for a 440.

To my knowledge, all 383s had forged cranks, all 400s had cast cranks.  Someone correct me if I am wrong.  EDIT: Chryco posted in another thread 383-2v engines 70 & up had cast cranks.

Look at the bottom of the cylinders.  If one is beat up at the very base, a rod has let go at one time.

Cracks will usually have a trail of rust particles tracing them, so though you can't see an actual gap, you've got a good clue of a potential problem.

If a main saddle has cracked, it will most likely be #2, 3, or 4, between the 10 and 11 o'clock positions when viewed from the front.

Pay attention to the cam tunnel and lifter valley for cracks, unusual wear.

If someone forgot the anti-freeze one winter, cracks usually show up running out from, or between, the freeze plugs.

Here is a refresher on reading the stamping pad in front of the passenger side head:

http://www.yearone.com/updatedsinglepages/Id_info/mopar/mopar%20casting%20numbers/castingnumbers3.html

If these numbers are virtually non existant, or flat out not there on a B engine, odds are it's the tell-tale sign of the block being decked at some point in it's life.

[bull]

Thanks guys!