News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

Disc Brake Dilemma

Started by pb24, December 11, 2006, 05:07:12 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

pb24

I'm starting to collect parts for a disc brake conversion on my 68 charger. I have a set of spindles off a 74 dart and heavy duty caliper mount so I still need calipers,rotors,bearings,master cylinder,rotors and hoses. So far I'm only into it about 200.00.

Now her comes my dilemma. I was at my local speed shop today and the had on clearance a SSBC force ten brake setup normally $1195.95 on sale for $795.95. It is an open box and he said the kit is complete. Should i buy the SSBC or get the rest of the part for a stock setup?

HITMAN 149

buy the ssbc kit!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
if not i'll take it!!!!!!!!! :P
68 Charger R/T, SOLD =/ sniffle sniffle
01 BMW 740i SPORT  
01 Hot Rod Harley Dresser, SOLD =/ =/

Silver R/T

SSBC power man, sell dart parst to someone else
http://www.cardomain.com/id/mitmaks

1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722

terrible one

I think that once you finish picking up parts for your brake conversion, you will be in for about $600 or so if you don't get some bad pricing. The SSBC kit would be a good deal, but it's still $200 or so more than the "kit" that you put together yourself. Also, does the SSBC kit include the MC and booster?

Silver R/T

think about weight savings and are calipers 2 piston or 4 piston?
http://www.cardomain.com/id/mitmaks

1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722

pb24

The calipers are 4 pistons and I think they are made out of aluminum

Chatt69chgr

You didn't say what kind of caliper brackets you had or if you were doing a 11 inch or 12 inch disc system or if you intend to have manual or power brakes.  But I figured on the back of an envelope that you should be able to buy the rest of the parts you need for about $300 plus or minus.  What kind of brake system you put together will depend to a certain extent on what you intend to do with the car.  If you plan on road racing it, then you will want the highest performance system you can get with the lightest weight.  Probably will want a light set if you drag race too.  If you plan on just making a street cruiser, then the off the shelf mopar parts will certainly get the job done.  In fact, for normal use, the 11 inch brakes are probably fine.  I figure the rotors at maybe $50 each, the calipers at $20-$40 depending on what kind you use, the hoses at maybe $20 each, the master at maybe $40, and the misc bearings and seals at $50 to $75.   Of course, you could ebay the parts you have and use the money to help buy the other set.  True A-body spindles probably go for $100-$150 and caliper brackets would depend on what kind you have.  Could go for anything from virtually nothing (11 inch sliders) to $80-$100 (for 12 inch sliders---pin type big brackets seem to go for a little less).  But by using the available Mopar parts, you could save at least  $300.  And later, when you need repair parts, they will be cheap compared to what you would have to pay for the aftermaket stuff.  But as I said to begin with, it mostly depends on what your ultimate goals are.  If you go with Aluminum calipers, you will probably want to convert to silicone brake fluid.  Regular brake fluid is hygroscopic and I would think would end up corroding the aluminum calipers.  Of course, if you change your fluid out once every year or two, then you would minimize this problem. 

pb24

I have the heavy duty calipers brackets so I could use I believe 11 3/4 rotors also I have power brakes. The car is going to be a weekend car no racing. Thanks for your input.

41husk

I would recommend the ssb kit, I used them screwed up a spacer, I called them they sent me a new spacer and walked me through the already easy procedures for the switch.  I would recommend them at that price.  On my 68 I got a complete set of a 72 Charger they swapped right out and onle had to buy a new master cylinder.  I was going to go with a stock set up I bought some original rebuilr 4 piston calipers off ebay couldnt find any pads had them for over a year before I got the set from a 72 and sold my calipers and lossed about $50 on the entire exchange.  I would not recommend gpoing with original disc brake set up unless your looking for a concourse restoration.  Just to much money! 
1969 Dodge Charger 500 440/727
1970 Challenger convertible 340/727
1970 Plymouth Duster FM3
1974 Dodge Dart /6/904
1983 Plymouth Scamp GT 2.2 Auto
1950 Dodge Pilot house pick up

Steve P.

The aftermarket brakes are great. BUT so are the MOPAR brakes. Some factors need to be looked at here. First would be the use. You say it's not going to be a racer. I know many using the factory later model disc brakes on BOTH street and racing cars. So, unless you plan to RALLY race this car the factory later model brakes will work just fine.

If it is a show car that you want to keep points on it better have the factory brakes on it.

If you want it to stop on a dime over and over again, (G MACHINE kind of competition), after market.

If you are worried about every ounce you can remove from the car, after market...

BUT,,,, if you are like most of us you will not NEED big money brakes. The factory later model stuff does it just fine..  I am readying a set of Fifth Ave. spindles for my 65' Coronet 500. The 10.85 rotors will do just fine and I can tell you I am NOT easy on either pedal in my vehicles...

The very big and nice thing about using factory MOPAR stuff is that you can buy ALL the repair parts EVERYWHERE........  Everyone has the parts.. No special order. No overnight shipping costs.. If you are on the road 500 miles from home and you spit a pad you can get it ANYWHERE.........   

Just my .02 :angel:
Steve P.
Holiday, Florida

41husk

All very good points steve.  I must agree, but if you can get the after market at the sale price he was talking about that is pretty comparable to putting on later model factory.  I would advise to go with the cheeper option, unless money is no factor, in wich case you should adopt me and all my projects :icon_smile_big:
1969 Dodge Charger 500 440/727
1970 Challenger convertible 340/727
1970 Plymouth Duster FM3
1974 Dodge Dart /6/904
1983 Plymouth Scamp GT 2.2 Auto
1950 Dodge Pilot house pick up

Steve P.

Steve P.
Holiday, Florida

pb24

I want thank everybody for their input you guys gave me alot of good info. I think I'm going to stick with a stock Mopar disc brake setup.

Steve P.

Do you mean stock 68' disc brakes?? Stock to later model?? What ever you can find IN STOCK??   ;)
Steve P.
Holiday, Florida

smasherofall

my disc conversion only cost about $230 total. Junk yard spindles w/rotors and calipers off of 80 Diplomat only cost me $50, then bought new rotors, reman calipers, new m.cyl and brake hoses. Of course I have a slight advantage on price, I work at a parts store and can buy at cost.   :icon_smile_tongue: :angel:

HITMAN 149

cool deal smasher.....
hook us up!!!!!!!!!! LOL
68 Charger R/T, SOLD =/ sniffle sniffle
01 BMW 740i SPORT  
01 Hot Rod Harley Dresser, SOLD =/ =/