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Just for Fun, Suspension Build Update Street STRIP B body

Started by kamkuda, October 31, 2006, 09:36:08 PM

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kamkuda

After attending an event at Norwalk, I got this naggy feeling to build a car for the 1/4 mile and serve some street duty.  A buddy hooked me up with a clean rust free Road Runner.   The plan is to build a car to handle some decent power and then build the engine to take advantage of a good suspension.  The car I bought came with ladder bars and an 8 3/4 pig with 4.86 gears :o.  My planned build is a stroker BB so I changed the 8 3/4 to a Dana and 4:10's

For stability, the ladder bars were moved OUT, closer to the wheels

kamkuda

The dana was built from an old Pick Up truck rear.  It is much heavier than the 8 3/4
It is braced at the bottom as well.  A 4:10 was built and a set of Strange axles weer cut and fit to the housing.  The whole housing needed to be set back 1.5 inches to fit the big tires.

What is great about Ladder bars, is your ability to adjust the ride height in the back :icon_smile_wink:

You can move it up and down the holes and change the springs for different heights

The 2nd photo is at a mid/higher level
The 3rd photo is the bolts to remove to adjust
The 4th photo is at the lowest setting but with a heavy big spring

kamkuda

After having the suspension set up and the housing shortened to fit, the housing was actually to short for the wheel wells.   
3 Options:

1 Run big spacers (I have long wheel studs but this is not a good safe option)
2 Buy rims with a different offset (I just got these rims and hopefully I can afford a strong enough engine to warrant wider tires)
3. Tub or Mini Tub the car to accommodate these rims or larger.

I went Option 3

Here the wheel well is cut out and a section cut to the frame rail.  A band will be placed and welded back the the other wheel housing section.


kamkuda

A read in "Doorslammers" chassis book that a good suspension starts with a stiff car.  A cage was added for safety and stiffening the chassis.  The chassis will certify to 8.50's not that I wuill ever go that fast.  I am looking at 12's when it is build and 10.5 with the new engine.

kamkuda

I added Swing Outs that allow easier entry for my son.  They are removable for driving around the street too, (if needed)

firefighter3931

Nice job so far with it Rob !  :2thumbs: It's gonna be fun putting that one back together  :icon_smile_cool:

Somehow, i don't see traction being an issue in your future track escapades !  :devil:


Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

is_it_EVER_done?

It's hard to really see the overall rear suspension setup in the pictures you posted, but it appears incomplete and dangerous from what I can see.

Is there a panhard bar thats not visible in the photos? do the ladder bars have heim joints so they can twist? Are you going to run leaf springs but haven't installed them yet?

That thing looks deadly dangerous as it is (from what is visible). If theres more than can be seen, good, but I would strongly suggest you make sure that it is not as unworkable as it looks before you get it up to speed.

kamkuda

This is my first ladder bar car so I want to ensure everything is right.  A race chassis shop did the work,  Here are some other pics.  Please tell me if you see anything wrong or unsafe.

FYI, Some of the pics are as I was putting it together or taking it apart thus a pic may or may not have the panhard bar installed.
I was not planning on using leaf springs, just the coil overs

kamkuda


Chryco Psycho

I used to work at a shop where we built either full chassis cars or did work exactly like that
I love ladderbars they will hook hard with no a lot of tire
everything looks great so far !! :2thumbs: