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440 running hot

Started by 73performance, June 24, 2006, 10:13:34 PM

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694spdRT

Last weekend in the Missouri 95 degree heat my car stayed right around 180 degrees whether idling in traffic or cruising the back roads. I have not ran extended distances on the freeway to check that yet. My 440 is setup with the 054 radiator, shroud, 180 degree stat, and a newer 5 blade clutch fan.

BTW: What is the "secret" key strike for degrees again?  :-\
1968 Charger 383 auto
1969 Charger R/T 440 4 speed
1970 Charger 500 440 auto
1972 Challenger 318
1976 W200 Club Cab 4x4 400 auto 
1978 Ramcharger 360 auto
2001 Durango SLT 4.7L (daily driver)
2005 Ram 2500 4x4 Big Horn Cummins Diesel 6 speed
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 5.7 Hemi

Just 6T9 CHGR

Hold ALT key down and press 167 on number pad

º ¼ ½ ¾ etc....

http://firehotquotes.bolt2.com/altcodes/fhqalt.html
Chris' '69 Charger R/T


grouseman

694spdRT is describing his cooling system which is working perfectly.  If he put in a 195 stat, his operating temp would stay at 195 at idle, at cruise, with A/C blasting.  If he had a 160, it would be a 160 all the time.  He has enough cooling capacity to shed whatever excess heat the engine generates.  The stat maintains the minimum temp ONLY, it can't control the MAXIMUM temperature.  That's the job of the radiator, et. al. 

A system which is running at 205º (Cool!  It worked!), or anything hotter than the stat rating, has marginal capacity.  You need to fix/increase coolant flow, airflow, and/or radiating capability. 

tick68charger

Had the same problem with my 440. nothing i did worked, timing,thermostats
different lb. radiator caps, fan shroud, water pump

so i got a becool radiator with out the built in trans cooler, and got the
B@M stack plate super trans cooler, a mildon high flow water pump,
a mildon high flow thermostat, a B@M trans pan with the cooling fins
and it holds 4 more qrts of trans fluid. a electric fan hooked up to a
manual switch because i still run the stock 7 blade mechanical fan
no shroud. and an overflow tank, and a new temp gauge.  runs all day at 180.

install problems:
had to put battery in the trunk, had to get braided flex hose and cut
to length,

i got all parts from summit racing, if you want part #s let me know.

overheating problem taken care of, but after 30 to 45 minutes of driving
at 20 to 30 mph my car looses idle and dies. my carb is getting hot
so next on my list ceramic coat my hooker headers and get a thicker
carb gasket that does not transfer heat. if that does not take care
of my vapor lock a six pack hood is going on to get ride of the
under hood heat. because everything is hot from my headers.
windshield wiper fluid box and wiper motor everything in the
engine compartment.

process of eliminations $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

BigBlockSam

Quotebut after 30 to 45 minutes of driving
at 20 to 30 mph my car looses idle and dies. my carb is getting hot

you know what might help you too. to install the valley pan with the manifold heat ports blocked. i forget the # rite now. that would stop hot air from circulating under your carb and your intake won't change color also. Rene
I won't be wronged, I wont be Insulted and I wont be laid a hand on. I don't do these things to others, and I require the same from them.

  [IMG]http://i45.tinypic.com/347b5v5.jpg[/img

tick68charger

I have that valley pan with the heat ports blocked. my front bowls are cool do to air movement
from the fan and such, but the bowls in back of my 850 Holley are hot and everything on the
firewall and engine compartment. does anyone think ceramic coating my hooker headers
would take care of my engine bay temps.
has anyone ran an un-ceramic coated header, and then went to a ceramic coated header?
and was there a noticeable difference?

Brightyellow69rtse

i talked my brother into getting ceramic coated one and i dont have any numbers to give u but it seemed much cooler under the hood after those were put on...........Mike

tick68charger