Crank but no start- 68 Charger

[70 sublime]

Yes.

Your car should run with the key in the cranking position if there is any power getting to the double end of the wire even if your ballast is bad
If ballast is bad the car will die as soon as you let the key return to run position if it started while cranking

Did you ever try starting the car with the big BLACK wire un hooked off alternator ?

You said there is a pop sound that comes from passenger side and that is about the only thing left with power wires on that side
The alternator could be grounding out for some reason ??

[ACUDANUT]

Once you become a Moderator, you have the right to edit content. Un til then, since you have the same level of authority as others, your words carry the same weight.

Nah.. it's a matter of opinion as to whose words carry weight.  

? ? ?
If the neutral safety switch is working, the car wouldn't even crank over. It disables everything, not just the spark.

True Dat !!! All kinds of worthless advice here.  

Alright A-NUT, enlighten us on your wisdom of how the OP's issue can be fixed  

Oh.. and please try to respond w/o sending me a nasty P.M. like last time? Something about my wife or something? ring a bell?  

What the heck are you talking about ?  I don't know you or your wife ??  

[whitehatspecial]

Yes.

Your car should run with the key in the cranking position if there is any power getting to the double end of the wire even if your ballast is bad
If ballast is bad the car will die as soon as you let the key return to run position if it started while cranking

Did you ever try starting the car with the big BLACK wire un hooked off alternator ?

You said there is a pop sound that comes from passenger side and that is about the only thing left with power wires on that side
The alternator could be grounding out for some reason ??

I am waiting for some Deoxit D5 contact cleaner to spruce up the bulkhead connections, so no I haven't tried to unhook the alternator yet. A photo is below, I don't see a large wire just what's pictured. I will try that, my damn full time job keeps getting in the way!!

[RiverRaider]

It looks like a later hi amp alternator.  Is it just the picture angle or is the terminal on your green field wire burned off?  Before you posted the picture I had this idea.  As it was mentioned that you do not have points if that is correct has the engine harness been spliced to run electronic ignition or is it an aftermarket ECU harness ?  Either way I would trace each wire back from the alternator to the bulkhead looking for shorts.  I have experienced wires shorting together on the engine harness between the passenger side valve cover and the carb.  There could be some other issues relating to the newer alternator but I would suggest these two places first.  Good luck.

[whitehatspecial]

The green alternator wire is intact and the connector is tight. Interestingly I did check the alternator connection and probably got a full turn or more on the nut that holds the field wires on. The wiring on the right side valve cover all look good. I will have the bulkhead connections cleaned and have everything together this weekend.

I plan on having all the lights off in the garage when I hook up the battery so that if it "pops" again I'll hopefully be able to pinpoint the arc.

Thanks again for the advice.

[Kern Dog]

I apologize for not reading every response. I may rant on about stuff already covered so bear with me...
I have electronic ignition in both of my '70 Chargers. There is one blue wire that connects to the alternator, coil positive and the ballast resistor.   The coil negative wire is a black with yellow tracer. If either of those is damaged, you'll get no spark.
When I have a NO spark condition, I often try swapping parts from my stash. I've had ballast resistors fail instantly where the car starts and runs fine one minute, then wouldn't. I've had the winding inside actually break. 
The factory electronic ignition box needs a good ground. I add an additional ground wire to ensure proper function.
You could run a wire from battery positive to coil positive, effectively energizing the coil directly. If the car won't start after that, the coil is not to blame.
I've had instances where I can crank and crank, then as I am releasing the key from the spring loaded "crank" position, the engine comes to life. Some blame the ignition switch for that, maybe they are right but to test that, I've plugged another ignition switch in and had the same symptom.

[whitehatspecial]

  Almost too embarrassed to post this, but I located the issue. When I pulled the transmission I read that I should remove the distributor cap (340 LA) so it wouldn't get damaged. In addition the pulling the cap and flipping it out of the way, I removed the rotor. I didn't even notice it wasn't there when I flipped the cap back on. It was sitting on my workbench.

Let me have it! I deserve it, but at least I went through my under hood electrical looking for problems.

Thanks again to all that tried to help.

[Kern Dog]

Bless you for your honesty. 

[70 sublime]

It's OK

I believe we all have had those days 

[XH29N0G]

I had heard of that as an anti theft measure, but now I know it can be something else.  I am glad you figured it out.   

[ACUDANUT]

Who among us is perfect ?

[nchrome]

l'm next to perfect l forgot to gap the points once  ::)lol

[Kern Dog]

l'm next to perfect l forgot to gap the points once  ::)lol

Same here. The first time I changed points, I just swapped them in. I knew nothing about setting a gap. I called a buddy.....
I just changed the points and It won't start.
He asked...."What are they gapped at?"
Gapped? Huh ??