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Distributor Clocking

Started by john108, June 13, 2020, 03:31:43 PM

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john108

68 Charger R/T with AC
The picture shows the direction the distributor vacuum diaphragm is pointing.
What direction does yours point.

I am in the process of putting the AC compressor on but noticed that there is a very small space between the diaphragm and the inlet manifold.  The compressor has a large bracket attached that appears to bolt to the 3 bolts circled in red, and I don't think it will fit.  
I could rotate the distributor 45 degrees and adjust the 8 spark plug wires.  

If the direction that the diaphragm is pointing is the direction everyone else has, and the AC bracket fits, I could just pull the distributor for the AC installation, then re-install it.
Thank You
John

chargerbr549

generally with the timing set where it suppose to be the #1 terminal on the distributor cap points right at the back of the alternator. If you rotate the intermediate shaft one or two teeth it should get you there.

Nacho-RT74

Depending on the distributor, but the stock one needs the intermediate shaft slot being parallel to the camshaft to get the #1 pointing out to back of alternator. But on the Mopar Performance one with adjustable mechanical advance it takes the slot around 80-100* ( can't recall exactly ) to get the #1 pointing out to back of alternator.

So you can remove the distributor to proceed with anything you need, yes, and at the same time get clocked the intermediate shaft as required to get the dist vacuum pod better positioned. Sure will need to readjust the initial timing.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

john108

Thank You
You guys know much more than I do.  I stripped an engine, to get the block, about 10 years ago.
It was built and dyno tested at the machine shop.  I cant remember a lot so if you don't mind, I would like to ask some dumb questions trying to understand.
I believe the new mopar distributor (1st Pic. here) does not have points (I can check).

Is the 2nd picture what you refer to as the intermediate shaft (distributor drive gear)? Does the end of the shaft drive the oil pump?
The 3rd is my original distributor.

Are you suggesting that I remove the distributor, some how lift the intermediate shaft and rotate it 1 or 2 teeth clockwise, and slip is back into the mating gear in the cam. how does it now lineup and engage with the oil pump?

Added old picture looking into distributor hole.

It also sounds like the timing will change from that set on the dyno?


Now When installing the distributor, does the end of the shaft slip into a slot in the intermediate shaft?
And anything else you can add.

John_Kunkel

With #1 cylinder at TDC, the gear needs to be installed as in the pic below.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

Nacho-RT74

Once again, IF that distributor is Mopar Performance made by Mallory with the adjustable mechanical advance, the factory intermediate shaft clocking won't work to get the #1 pointing to back of alternator. I can't recall where exactly I had to clock it but was close to 90 degrees... can't recall if maybe more to 80 degrees or maybe more to 100 degrees, but something like that.

About pull it out and insert it on another position what will happen with the oil pump end? You don't have to worry about that, the oil pump will move and match with the hex end of the shaft while being reinstalled.

You don't need to pull it out completely. In fact you can try to use a long screw driver and make it spin on the opposite direction and the intermediate shaft will be pushed by the cam gears... keep it spining untill find the wished position and reinsert it.

When installing back the distributor, the dist end won't find automatically the slot, will need to match it. Easier with cap off and rotating the rotor untill find it. The dist fits partially into the block hole but will fit completelly once gets the slot matched with dist shaft.

Now if you got the cylinder 1 at TDC, you can either be into the compression stroke or the exhaust stroke. So MAYBE you will need to install the rotor pointing out to 1 on cap or 6 on cap. Don't worry about it if doesn't start up, just need to rotate the rotor 180 degrees and reinstall. You can also try to find the compression stroke and that will make you sure to install dist with rotor pointing to 1 on cap.

About the timming... just need to set back the initial timing you had with a timming lamp... the rest of the curve is not affected since is set into the dist, not in relation with outside pieces.

Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

john108

Nacho
I didn't give you enough information.
I don't know enough to fully understand what you are telling me.
Right now, there is no Electrical, water, oil, or gas in the car.
The timing mark on the balancer is at TDC.
I need baby steps.
I am considering using tape to lock the rotor pointing where it is.
Hopefully just past the #6 lobe under the rotor.
I put a white dot on top of the lobe that is just past the pick-up.
That probably accounts for the advance that the dyno guy set.
I am adding more pictures.  You should see the white dot on the lobe I think is just past #6.

john108

Thank You All
Combining a few of the comments I received helped me accomplish rotating the distributor without changing the timing.

John