Initial start up oil

[NHCharger]

Hoping to fire up my new 440 in the next week or two. 
I run Valvoline 20/50 racing oil in my other cars. Is it ok to use it on the break in? I will also add a bottle of the Comp Cam break in fluid

[69wannabe]

The valvoline VR1 20w50 has zinc in it for flat tappet cams and I would think that would be fine to start it up with and not having to use any additive but I may be wrong. Honestly I would just run some regular 10w40 with a bottle of additive to start it up with and run it like the break in directions say for the camshaft then after the break in cycle I would run it a few more min's and then drop out that oil and change the filter and then fill it back up with the VR1 20w50. Should be good to go after that since that's basically the way I did mine and it's been fine for several years now. You may want to PM 340challenger or firefighter Ron and see what they recommend just to be sure.....

[Sublime/Sixpack]

Your plan will probably be okay, but personally I'd use Joe Gibbs Driven "BR" oil for break in. That's what I've used with good results.

[NHCharger]

My second search on this site did bring up a thread on this. Ron recommended Shell rotella 15-40 diesel for break in. Of course I just dumped the Valvoline in last night. Suppose I could just drain it into a clean contain and use it after the break in is complete.

[Mastodon08]

I'm a young learner, but my first and last motor I built I used the Joe Gibbs break in oil suited for my engine PLUS an extra does of the zinc additive to help insure the cam would make it through the break in. Another note from engine veterans I've heard is to always add a bottle of the zinc additive in every fresh oil change. Hope this helps. God bless.

[Bronzedodge]

I used Brad Penn break in on my 383 startup.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bpo-009-7120

[JHolslin]

My local Oil supplier told me they stopped putting zinc in the rotella.

[Highbanked Hauler]

My second search on this site did bring up a thread on this. Ron recommended Shell rotella 15-40 diesel for break in. Of course I just dumped the Valvoline in last night. Suppose I could just drain it into a clean contain and use it after the break in is complete.

  The shop that built my sons 440 said to use Shell diesel oil in it which I did along with a bottle of comp cams break in oil and as far as I know it did OK. A Shell oil rep. told the engine builder that their diesel oil hasn't changed. I run it in the Cummins and the 500.

[c00nhunterjoe]

All diesel oils have changed to meet new fed laws. Dodge has had diesel motor failures as a result, as has ford with their newest engines. Ford even released a bulletin about the new oil and lifter failure. Running diesel oil does not fix the zinc problem, hasnt for over 5 years now and the newest api rating is even worse.

[bee1971]

I never understood why someone would want to break in a brand new motor with a thick 20w50w

But that's just me I guess , anyways

Broke in my 432 Stroker with Comp Cams 10w30w Break In Oil after priming the oil pump first and getting oil up to my rockers

Two hours of run time

Pulled the Wix Filter last Friday and brought it to my A&P mechanics at work and they cut it open , poured whatever oil was left into a coffee filter , cut and pulled out the filter media and unwound it

They told me it looked perfect , even ran a magnet through the oil and filter media , absolutely perfect


Plan on either running the Valvoline VR 10w30w racing oil in silver bottle or they also make a straight 30w and 40w also along with the 20w50w

With the 10w30w Comp Cams , I had 75 psi cold at RPM's and 35 psi at idle

[bee1971]

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,46015.0.html

[c00nhunterjoe]

Oil weight should be dictated by your build. I agree. Just dumping 20w50 in isnt necessarily the correct choice. If i ran 20/50 in my old 383, i would have blown the filter off the front of the engine.

[NHCharger]

I never understood why someone would want to break in a brand new motor with a thick 20w50w

But that's just me I guess , anyways

I just started using the Valvoline a few years ago. i'm not an engine builder. That's why I asked the question.
It won't take long to drain the Valvoline into a clean pan and save for future use and replace it with an oil better suited for the break in.
I was also planning on priming the engine before start up.

[pipeliner]

Not all Diesel oil is created equally. Rotella and Valvoline still has around 1200 PPM of Zinc while Delo and a few others are only in the 800 range. My motor is a complete roller and I still used Joe Gibbs break in oil and will still be using his oil after break in. I have plenty of 15/40 Valvoline and Rotella at my house for my diesel trucks and I wouldn't be afraid to use it but as little as we drive these cars why not spend the money for the added protection?

[c00nhunterjoe]

Can you post the findings on shell rotella having 1200 ppm please? Because if so, it can not be used in modern engines as it would destroy the catylitic converters on 2003 and newer diesels, and destroy the dpfs on the newer ones, and would not have the current api ratings on the bottles.

[bee1971]

This is from 2013 - Don't know how accurate this is

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/13-performance/398916-valvoline-vr1-oil.html

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,46015.0.html

[bee1971]

I never understood why someone would want to break in a brand new motor with a thick 20w50w

But that's just me I guess , anyways

I just started using the Valvoline a few years ago. i'm not an engine builder. That's why I asked the question.
It won't take long to drain the Valvoline into a clean pan and save for future use and replace it with an oil better suited for the break in.
I was also planning on priming the engine before start up.

Go with a 10w30w Break In Oil like mentioned in a few posts

See what kind of oil pressure you have with the thinner oil

I also will be running Valvoline VR Racing Oil this summer , silver bottle , probably !0w30w or a straight weight 30 or 40 

[pipeliner]

http://pqiadata.org/Shell_Rotella_T4_15W40_4192017.html

http://pqiadata.org/Valvoline_Blue_15W40_4192017.html

http://pqiadata.org/Chevron_Delo_15W40_4192017.html
http://pqiadata.org/Mobil_Delvac_15W40_4192017.html

[c00nhunterjoe]

http://pqiadata.org/Shell_Rotella_T4_15W40_4192017.html

http://pqiadata.org/Valvoline_Blue_15W40_4192017.html

http://pqiadata.org/Chevron_Delo_15W40_4192017.html
http://pqiadata.org/Mobil_Delvac_15W40_4192017.html

None of those oils have the required zddp levels to protect a performance flat tappet cam as clearly shown in those charts. The last 2 links being  the worst.

[pipeliner]

I'll agree with you. I could could use any of em but not the flat tapett crowd but like I said why would you? Just buy the good stuff and have piece of mind. All I ever used was Rotella and Valvoline in my trucks and never had any problems

[c00nhunterjoe]

Yeah, but we are talking about putting diesel oil in a big block mopar as a fix. It is not the answer and no cam manufacture will warrant a product using those oils.

[Highbanked Hauler]

All diesel oils have changed to meet new fed laws. Dodge has had diesel motor failures as a result, as has ford with their newest engines. Ford even released a bulletin about the new oil and lifter failure. Running diesel oil does not fix the zinc problem, hasn't for over 5 years now and the newest api rating is even worse.

  What is your thoughts on "Brad Penn" oil or what would you recommend ?  My sleds have a minimum of 22K miles so it isn't an issue..

[c00nhunterjoe]

All of my flat tappet cams get brad penn. My rollers get lucas.