Has anyone used a Quick Fuel Insulator?

[comet_666]

I have been having some issues with heat soak I think. I may want to try this to see if it helps out.


https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/quick-fuel/product-line/quick-fuel-quick-cool-carburetor-insulator-kits?autoview=SKU&ibanner=SREPD5

[timmycharger]

Check out page 4, reply #89 of this thread, unfortunately no pics, but I think its a similar piece.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,52284.75.html

[JR]

I've ran one of those for a while now. Both on a 4bbl carb, and the throttle body EFI.

Short answer; yes, they work as advertised. I'd recommend one.

Long answer:

They definitely help. They aren't a "cure all" for every single issue you could possibly have, but (in my experience) they definitely make a difference, and will cool down the fuel in the bowls to an extent.

But first off, you MUST block the heat crossover in the intake manifold, or else the gaskets will melt. Its not an option. (But if you're looking at cooling down the carb, I assume you've already done this.)

I chased vapor lock issues for a while before I switched to EFI, and I paired this spacer alongside other mods that cured it.

I don't know what else you've done, but I made some other changes alongside this spacer that helped.

- Removed the service access plates so heat could escape

-blocked heat crossover in intake manifold

- changed to Edelbrock aluminum intake manifold. (Aluminum dissipates heat faster than stock cast iron units

- added a fuel return line ( a MUST have if you're battling vapor lock.)

- rerouted fuel lines as far away from exhaust manifolds as I could get.

- added a clutch fan with a full shroud

-170 degree thermostat. ( I know 180 is what most people would recommend, but in my experience, big blocks make so much heat underhood the cooler thermostat helps.)

- ceramic coated headers. (Massive improvement with these. The ceramic coating dropped the underhood temps significantly. You can have factory manifolds coated if you want to keep them. The difference is amazing.)

- fill up with non ethanol gas when possible. The ethanol blends have a lower boiling point than conventional fuel. 20 degrees lower I believe.

Those changes combined cured my car of vapor lock, and I live in the hot Southeast. And drive in stop and go traffic and everything. I have EFI now, but drove with this setup plenty with the carb, and vapor lock went away entirely after making the listed changes.

Sorry if that's way more info than needed, I pulled my hair out chasing vapor lock, and know what a pain it is.

[c00nhunterjoe]

That is a direct ripoff of coolcarb technologies peice. But yes, they work great. I can lay my hand on my carb after a drive and it is cool to the touch. Buy one from coolcarb, support smalltime busniss

[comet_666]

Ahh all good advice, thank you.
I did not know that about the gas having a lower boiling point..I am going to try some race gas if I can find it around here..I really don't want to spend whatever it is a gallon but I'll at least give it a shot.
Its a fresh motor with less than 5 k on it, crossovers blocked, aluminum intake, however I do not have a return line to the tank, I was also thinking of maybe modding the fiberglass hood to use the turn signal indicator holes for venting excess heat. This is by no means happening often, however once is to often for me. If I decide to get a insulator I will get a cool carb one.

[JR]

I'm guessing you live up north, down here in the southeast that setup would constantly vapor lock on me.

If it's not happening often, I think the cool carb spacer, the fuel return line, and not using ethanol blend fuel (if you can find it) will probably cure it completely.

Here's a site that list most ethanol free gas stations across the United States.

https://www.pure-gas.org


Oh I also forgot to mention, this is the time of year that gas stations start getting winter blends of fuel, which also has a lower boiling point than the fuel you buy in the summer. That could have caused the recent issue as well.

[c00nhunterjoe]

Im on east coast in maryland. We have hot humid summers here, not as bad as outwest on deep south, but nasty enough for 100 degree summer days in the shade. I have not had fuel issues with pump gas since blocking the crossover and installing the coolcarb spacer. This is on a returnless system as well. Had a mechanical pump for years and the electric now is still no problem. Only reason i went electric is the mechanical could not support what got stuffed under the hood...