where to check for 3rd member play

[Nacho-RT74]

Hi!! just unjoined everything on my axle to replace outer bearings ( passenger side began to give noises ). Also replace the housing since mine looks to be worn where bearings are located because it has a noticeable oil leak. One of the cars I parted out long time ago did have a 8 3/4 apparently never opened with 489 carrier housing for a while my car had 741 so here is my fisrt question:
-Differences about 489 and 741... I have read abot 489 is stronger, but why and where ?

Now since I have unjoined everything does look my 741 has less play than the 489, but not sure if I'm checking good so:
-where I have to check for axle plays ? main gear and pinion play only ? or do I have to look also the differential carrier internals gears and pinions ?
-how much is acceptable ( internal carrier and main gear ) ?

If the play I have is unacceptable ...
-whats the procedure to save the play ? from exterior all gears look very good...
-I have know about shims... where they go installed ?

AND THAAANK YOU in advance

[Chryco Psycho]

the shims will be behing the rear/ bigger pinion brg ,
the 489 has a bigger diameter pinion gear , 1 3/8" vs 1 7/8"
the backlash between the ring & pinion is typically is close to .008 , there should be no play in & out on the pinion gear & there should be drag to rotate the gears

[Nacho-RT74]

the 489 has a small in & out play on pinion gear... is that what is saved with shims ? Are they installed from exterior removing the pinnion flange ? or do I need to dissasemble the carrier ?

I don't get about there should be drag to rotate the gears

[Nacho-RT74]

I have a slight in and out movement on flange... so being bearings conical, then also have up and out movement. I still haven't dissasembled it, but where it could be the problem... some special tool ? do I need to remove carrier ?

[69XP383]

I just took my 3rd member off of my 489 and as Chryco said, I had to actually apply some force on the axles and flange at the same time to "break it loose" and get it to free spin. It had me worried at first, but now even with the 3rd member off I can free spin the flange back and forth, but it takes some effort.

[hemihead]

Get an FSM it will tell you.

[Nacho-RT74]

I can see a spacer on Mopar parts catalog... is this the piece thet does need to be replaced when I have in and out play on flange ?, somebody told me this piece is collapsible and is auto adjusted ( once colapses untill needed point ) when you get flange nut tighten.

Do I need to remove carrier or just remove flange from the front to get acces to replace this piece ? what about front bearing ? I already have in my hands the oil seal what I think will need also replace.

[Nacho-RT74]

I can't loose the flange nut 

[Nacho-RT74]

FINALLY GOT IT REMOVED... had to go to shop with a Neumatic drill to loose it. DAMN THAT THINK WAS TIGHT. When broke to loose some sparks were visible jumping.

I'm checking everything, and carrier stuff looks good. Some play that I don't know hom much of that is normal. A Mopar friend of mine told me looks really in good conditions, but will be great some opinions, on internal gears. I know is hard to post opinions without see, but any extra description will be helpfull.

Now about Pinion... the front bearing was easy to remove, but I can't remove the bigger rear bearing... does it fit with pressure ? how can I remove it ? I'm just removing because if did have in and out play and was used in that way probably I would have some bearing problem in a close future, being conical bearings. They look good but just in case.

Spacer does look never got colapsed But I can't find my measurement tape to measure it. As My Mopar parts catalog states does look the size is 2 63/64", is that right ?. I installed the spacer and front bearing on pinion out of the housing to check for play there and did look no play there so spacer looks at right measurement to this assembly. Maybe just will need extra shims between front bearing and flange. This carrier looks never was dissasembled. On diagrams appears shims are placed between spacer and font bearing, but I found just one shim between front bearing and flange nut... what would be the best on shims location ?

Editing... yes spacer got collapsed as must be... does measure around 2 61/64", but once I did fit on pinion ring between bearings without shims fits LIKE A GLOVE. NO more, NO less. Do you think will be better install a shim there to get a little bit tighter ?

[Chryco Psycho]

the pinion nut is torqued to 200+ ft lbs , unless you are very careful you cannot reuse the crush sleeve , your best option is to install a spacer & have the brgs shimmed properly , the big brg on the pinion is pressed into place with shims behind it , , if you remove the b rg you will need a new brg & the pinion depth will need to be reset

[Nacho-RT74]

I was very carefully.

Finally got everything removed. Both pinion bearings will be replaced since if the donor parts car was riding with this assembly with in and out play ( about 1/64"- 1/32" ) mostly sure bearings will create problems in a future.

Before I removed rear bearing made a sleeve and bearings assembly test assemblying out of the carrier and sleeve fit exactly between both bearings. Anyway I could install a shims just in case, between sleeve and front bearing.

Already have new pinion bearings and rear bearing new shims kit.

what I don't know is why or where was the play on assembly