Thoughts on street engine.

[Bad B-rad]

That is awesome!!! I ordered the SRT hood for my R/T.
I wonder if I can order the stuff to convert mine to the super track pack? When I pick up the hood(dealer painting it) I want to order up The Scat Pack Stage 1. It's a CAI, cat back exhaust and an ECU. The dealer said once I place my order they take down the vin and in about a week I get my new ECU. Oh and I also get two SCAT PACK 1 badges. I think the stickers alone give it 10 extra HP!!
I think the SRT hood has a functional scoop that dumps air in the CAI. I had a hard time deciding between Hell cat hoot or SRT.

But that's the point I have been trying to make about a modern auto with extra gears, its 3.09,but launches like a 727 with 4.10's and I bet at 65MPH its turning 1800rpm. By having extra gears you can change ratios around and make a lower HP car accelerate faster then a 3 speed auto with more HP.
So at the track you may not use all 8 speeds on your car but the ratios that you are using allow you out run a more power full car,and that is made possible by the extra gears. If only those transmissions would fit behind our cars, without major surgery to cross member and or transmission tunnel and not cost $6500 bucks or more. 
If our stock 383's and 440's had transmissions like your modern Charger they would be incredible, and you might be able to run them at LOWER rpm at cruising speed due to the low end torque the big blocks make.   

[c00nhunterjoe]

Those new 8 speeds are using at least 6 of those gears going down the track. Its a completely different animal to compare the new 8 speed to say a 518, 46re or 4l60.
   I think the cost to convert from a 727 to a 518 will be mkre expensive then building the big inch stroker.

[Bad B-rad]

Your may be right, I would guess the trans alone build for big block power is about 1500 bucks and then you have the whole bell housing issue. buy one and cut and weld or adapter plate how ever you decide to get it done.
If I build the stroker you suggested,  the torque it puts out I can run the 727 and 3.23 gears and daily drive it so no need for a 518,at least out of the gate. 
Do you have a link to that engine that Russ built that you recommended for me? Was it a kit built by a company or just something he assembled on his own? I would like to figure out what that is going to cost me to do. Must the block have any work done to make room for the extra stroke? I would imagine it may need some clearance, Clarence. In that case I would not be using my #'s block. So will any old "B" block work fine, or should I try and find a specific year 383 or 400? I have heard that certain year 400 blocks have thicker webbing/beefier bottom ends. would this be the best block to use?   

I Have a 5.7 hemi,and a 6.1 short block, so I wanted to explore a 6.1 Hemi vs a basicly stock 383.
If cost is the same,for engine build not for install into the car just to build the engine, between 383 stroker and a 6.1 to 7.0 stroker what would be the better engine?
Even if the question is asked just for the purpose of finding out the answer, or what most people think is the answer.
A modern Hemi stroked to 426CI with a carb or two(or even three with the mod man intake) and the coils hidden would be really cool. IMO

[Troy]

Troy as you said about your Scat Pack Charger being awesome everywhere, I agree and imagine that type of performance in a 69 Charger(straight line acceleration not braking and cornering)That would be amazing correct?
How much power is the Scat Pack Charger putting out? I got stuck with a 2016 Charger R/T I could have gotten an SRT two years older, but my wife HAD TO HAVE the dam R/T that we got.
I also do not have the funds to marry the two car together in one super car.
I would be after a very similar 60/40 highway driving with my car. If I was building a 440 or maybe the 383 stroker then I maybe able to run 2.76, or 2.92 so highway rpm is nice, if the engine make enough power to be respectable.

It's possible to get close - although it ain't cheap! But the car is also still nearly 50 years old. One of my 68s now has a full Hotchkis suspension, OD 4-speed transmission, 4 wheel disc brakes, and (still in progress) a fuel injected 440. That's about $7k in upgrades not counting the engine itself. The Scat Pack has gigantic Brembo brakes, super sticky tires, traction control and ABS which would be great - but difficult - on the old one. The electronics (particularly transmission and traction control) are some of the things that makes the newer one run circles around the old one. My Scat Pack is 485 hp and 475 ft/lbs which is slightly more than the older ones. The SRT 392s have all the goodies mine has but with even bigger brakes, wheels/tires, and adjustable suspension (for about $10k more). With the trans in manual mode I literally can't shift out of 1st gear fast enough at full throttle and I bounce it off the rev limiter. The top 2 gears on the 8 speed are OD and the car is barely above idle at 65 mph.

Just my opinion, with any 66-74 Mopar car I have had with 727 transmission and 14 or 15 inch tire 3.55 or 3.23 is MY preferred gears if I intend to do lots of highway driving.
3.91 if I only plan on doing short highway trips.
That's just me. I know guys that run 4.10 and don't mind it. but I never enjoyed even the 3.91s on the highway. The speed limit here is 65mph, everybody is actually going 75+ and I never liked running my car at 75 I forget what I was turning for rpm but it just wasn't for me. Everyone is different, and can run what ever they want. I loved the power the 3.91 had but love that the 3.23 made the highway a nicer drive.
I think the new Chargers run like 2.87 or something. But have 8 gears(auto) to make up the difference.

For "normal" driving with stock(ish) sized tires it's hard to beat a 3.23. There's a reason why almost everything from the factory had 2.76 or 3.23 gears. I mentioned that my car with 3.91s wouldn't cruise above 61 mph. The key there is "before the secondaries opened". It will certainly go faster if I were racing. Gas mileage dropped from 16+ to 10 mpg when cruising with the secondaries open (even a little). With the 3.23s I usually float around 70-75 mph. It's awesome to watch people do a double take in their mirrors when you're overtaking them on the highway in an old car. Most of the ones you see are in the right lane with the engine screaming because they just had to have racing gears.

That is awesome!!! I ordered the SRT hood for my R/T.
I wonder if I can order the stuff to convert mine to the super track pack? When I pick up the hood(dealer painting it) I want to order up The Scat Pack Stage 1. It's a CAI, cat back exhaust and an ECU. The dealer said once I place my order they take down the vin and in about a week I get my new ECU. Oh and I also get two SCAT PACK 1 badges. I think the stickers alone give it 10 extra HP!!
I think the SRT hood has a functional scoop that dumps air in the CAI. I had a hard time deciding between Hell cat hoot or SRT.

But that's the point I have been trying to make about a modern auto with extra gears, its 3.09,but launches like a 727 with 4.10's and I bet at 65MPH its turning 1800rpm. By having extra gears you can change ratios around and make a lower HP car accelerate faster then a 3 speed auto with more HP.
So at the track you may not use all 8 speeds on your car but the ratios that you are using allow you out run a more power full car,and that is made possible by the extra gears. If only those transmissions would fit behind our cars, without major surgery to cross member and or transmission tunnel and not cost $6500 bucks or more. 
If our stock 383's and 440's had transmissions like your modern Charger they would be incredible, and you might be able to run them at LOWER rpm at cruising speed due to the low end torque the big blocks make.   

The SRT hoods are just an open scoop. They do not feed air to the intake. They do, it seems, ingest every bit of dust and water that's anywhere near the front of the car. Cleaning engine compartments is not my idea of fun.

Troy

[Bad B-rad]

In manual mode in my R/T you can launch in 2nd gear, I imagine that you have tried that already,and you have more power AND gear then me.(R/T vs Scat Pack)
So you must have the SRT hood judging from what you said. That sucks because when I ordered the hood they said it had a functional hood scoop, I guess they say a lot though don't they, maybe I should have gotten the Hell Cat hood, with the "heat extractors".
I kinda thought the middle raised scoop(SRT) got lost and didn't stand out as much with the heat vents on the Hell Cat hood.

I am not even going to try and improve on my 69's handling, to much more then going to an R/T or larger torsion bars(mine is a regular Charger w 383 so I have BB "T-bars" but not the R/T or improved handling ones) and R/T or the one step up Mopar leaf springs with polyurethane or polygraphite bushings,and adding rear sway bar,maybe larger front bar.
I also have the larger C-body tie rod ends with the solid steel firm feel adjusters. On my old 66 Charger I had the Firm Feel stage 3 box with the fast ratio pitman arm. I don't know what I am gonna do with my 69, may just leave it alone,or maybe that "Jeep" style smaller box I hear so much about, I have not done my homework on that one. But out of the gate I think I am just gonna leave it be.
Down the road, if I must, maybe tubular adjustable upper control arms and plated lower arms.
I also will look into the larger R/T front drums or go(if money permits) front disc, with Mopar parts, coping the factory disc/drum set up,nothing fancy or expensive. I like to drive the car through the curvy back roads I have here but I don't push it to the edge of safety or traction loss, I just push it to were it's fun and safe. So slightly better then stock is OK with me. It's the straight line performance that I want to make sure my 69 has, because I don't want mom in her minivan or punk ass kids in their 4 banger to embarrass me. I would also like to be able to line up vs brand "x" muscle cars old and modern and not have to go away with my tail between my legs.
So wanting to street drive the hell out of my 69, I think a stock looking 383 stroker is in my future.
 

[Troy]

I learned that I have launch control so now I don't bother! Set launch RPM, mash the pedal, release the brake, grin like a fool. There's almost no wheelspin - just acceleration.

The scoop is "functional" in that it's open. Typically, a "non-functional" scoop is just a scoop plopped onto a regular flat hood. I don't much care for the Hellcat hoods. The extractors are necessary - but not that great looking. The SRT front end is the primary reason I bought the car.

Before dissing the stock handling too much... this is a member's car. It does not have any crazy aftermarket suspension - mostly beefed up stock parts. It's also running a carb'd 440 (in these videos).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F9xM-UM-vhw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=euOtG-pzB48&t=15s

Troy