replacing the quarter glass seal

[willy]

Is there an easy way to get the trim piece off of the door glass so I can replace the quarter window seal? And how is the best way to attach the new seal back onto the glass?
Thanks,
Willy

[Ghoste]

Doesn't it just slide in from the top?  Or am I thinking of a different part??

[jaak]

Doesn't it just slide in from the top?  Or am I thinking of a different part??

I don't recall mine just sliding in, maybe it is suppose to  ,but you will notice the strip has a lip on the edge that goes in a 'groove' (for lack of better term) in the moulding. I had to take a small pocket screwdriver and force the lip on the weatherstrip into the groove in the moulding (I also sprayed on some WD40 to lube it up). The moulding just pulls off of the door glass.

Jason

[willy]

I am talking about the trim piece with the seal that attaches to the window glass between the front and back glass. Mine seems to be glued onto the glass and doesn't want to come off.

[Ghoste]

Is the glass out of the car?

[nvrbdn]

 

[willy]

Yes the glass is out of the car. I haven't bought the new seal yet. Which brand is better Metro or Precision?

[Ghoste]

I used Metro for the most part when I did mine although it's been a while.  For some reason, if we are talking about the same part, I think I got that from Chrysler.  I will have to go out and look at my car but I thought the trim just pulled off the glass when it was out of the door.

[willy]

Mine seems to be glued to the glass I don't want to bend the metal piece getting it off.

[nvrbdn]

right. mine doesnt seem to just come off. i have the rubber already, just not sure how to remove without tearing something up also.

[Ghoste]

Hmm, I better look at mine when I get home.

[bill440rt]

From what I'm interpreting, you want to remove the stainless molding from the back edge of the glass? It's relatively simple.
It's held in place by an adhesive, similar to butyl that the back glass is held in place with. In fact, you can use butyl to reattach it.

If the glass is out of the car, place it on a table or workbench with a soft cloth (towel, blanket, etc) underneath it so you don't scratch the glass. Using a block of wood & a mallet, carefully start on one end & work down the molding. Tap gradually, & use care. You may have to strike it a little firm, just don't wail away on it.
Once you get the molding off the glass, you can clean it up & reattach.

BTW, you should have to remove the stainless molding in order to replace the rubber seal. The seal should just peel off. Start on one end & work down. Use a screwdriver, razor blade, etc. Just use care so you don't gouge or damage the molding. The seal is glued in place, so it may come off in pieces & you just have to use a scraper, razor blade, thinner, etc to remove the remains. Fairly sloppy job.

As Jaak describes, the is a channel on the stainless molding that the ridge on the seal fits into. I've found that a 2" wide plastic body filler spreader or a plastic scraper works well for working the ridge on the seal into the molding. Use 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive or contact cement to hold the seal back in place as well.

Good luck! 

[nvrbdn]

cool, thanks for the info. that helps me. and thanks to willy for bringing this up. hope you got your answer also. mine are in the car so i will peel/scrape and replace as they sit.

[willy]

Thanks Bill for the info I will work on it this week. Does anyone else have an opinion on the brand of seal to use? I read on here somewhere where someone had to open their door to roll down the window because the seal stuck to the back window when it was hot outside. I don't want that problem.
Thanks,
Willy

[bill440rt]

 

They go down pretty far, to the base of the stainless molding. You may have to remove the glass from the car (it's MUCH easier that way), but you don't have to remove the molding from the glass. Remove the rubber door end seal up top, and/or the lower door panel.
The seal should be just black rubber with a black felt flocking on it.
BTW, NONE of the repro seals are "correct" vs originals. The originals had a molded end up top, whereas the repros just have a flat piece of rubber glued up there, or sometimes none at all. Originals are TOUGH to find, and expensive when you do find them.

Check with Metro, Soffseal, etc for the repros.  

[nvrbdn]

believe you may be right on that. i will have to walk out to the garage and check that out. plus need warmth to apply the sealer anyway. ....................................... willy, i cant remember which seals i got. have to dig them out. but why not just treat the rubber with protectant. wouldnt that make it slide and not stick when hot?

[willy]

Thanks for the help and input. I will let you know how it turns out
Willy

[CRW-FK5]

Old thread, but wondering if anyone knows if the repro quarter seals are any better now, and which ones to buy?  Sounds like all that was available back in 2012 did not have the flocking on them and had a separate end piece.