Storing cast iron heads

[Dino]

I just had my cast iron heads hot tanked and since I won't be able to reassemble the engine and paint it for some time to come, I need to store them somewhere.  I will be able to reinstall the valves, springs, and seals soon, but I can leave those off for storage if that's recommended.  Either I take the heads in the house without using any chemicals to protect the iron from rusting again, or I leave them in the non-insulated garage where I can spray them with something for protection.

What's the best route to take here?

[acelondon]

My 360 heads were painted with clean motor oil, inside and out, on the springs and everything, and sealed in bags in basements, apartment kitchens and frozen garages for about 3 years now. They look fine. Not even surface rust. 

[Dino]

Thanks Ace!  That makes sense; any type of oil would keep the water out.  My only concern is that cast iron is so porous I'd have to do some serious cleaning before I can paint them on the engine.  I think blasting them with lacquer thinner from a paint gun oughta do it though.   

I've got plenty motor oil so I'll soak them good.   

[acelondon]

That's basically my plan. Maybe a little help from a propane torch to make sure i got it all!

[Troy]

You could skip the oil. Put them in plastic bags with some dessicant pouches. Seal the bags. Done. The iron won't rust without moisture.

I have a few sets that have been sitting bare in my garage for years. No problems until this summer when the roof turned into a sieve. I dunked them in Evaporust then coated them with WD-40 and left them on the shelf again. The WD-40 will eventually drain off (so will oil) but it's held up fine for a long while. I have one machined engine block that's oil soaked and bagged. Haven't opened it in 5 years so I have no idea about it's condition.

You could always run them back over to the machine shop to have them hot tanked.

Troy

[Dmichels]

 You want to store your heads at a constant temperature. An unheated garage is asking for trouble as you can and WILL get condensation from temperature extremes.   WD40 and regular engine oil DO NOT protect against rust. The film brakes down and moisture gets in. I would spray the heads with  product called COSMOLINE. it comes in spray cans. It leaves a wax on the surface of the metal, great stuff. This is designed to prevent rust   I would bag the heads if possible and put in several large desiccant packages. Store these inside if possible, and take a look at it every few months and address any issues that may come up. 

Dave

[Dino]

Thanks for the advice folks. 

I found a good spot inside where they can be in dry storage until I need them again.  I just thought about using vacuum bags.  I may have to wrap something around the heads so I don't tear the bags on the corners of the heads, but it should work I think!

[Chargerguy74]

Don't use WD-40. Cosmoline was mentioned. Cosmoline was used to protect rifles for long term storage. I have a few 60+ year old Cold War era rifles coated with cosmoline that still look brand new. It'll do the job. I was also recommended 12/34 over WD-40, but have yet to find any.

[Dino]

I only use WD-40 for cleaning cast iron tops on the table saw, jointer, and band saw.

The guys that tanked the heads did put a light coat of oil on the heads but they said it wouldn't protect them for all that long.  I ended up wrapping them in old towels and stuck them in a vacuum bag.  Worked like a charm.   

[ws23rt]

I only use WD-40 for cleaning cast iron tops on the table saw, jointer, and band saw.

The guys that tanked the heads did put a light coat of oil on the heads but they said it wouldn't protect them for all that long.  I ended up wrapping them in old towels and stuck them in a vacuum bag.  Worked like a charm.   

The wrapping them in old towels is something I would not do. The towels have (and hold) moisture to begin with. They will also tend to absorb oil.
IMO the oil on the parts and the vacuum bag is better.  Put the towels on the outside of the bag to help protect from bag punctures.

[Dino]

I thought about it but the bag would tear if the towels weren't wrapped around the sharp heads.  The oil on the heads is like a film, it's dry to the touch so nothing really can soak into the towels.  The towels I ran in the microwave to get them as dry as possible.  I'll check on them from time to time to make sure they don't rust.

[71 SE3834V]

I just wanna know how you moved both those heads in the bag at the same time? You have stock in Wheaties?

Any idea the timeline when you're wanting to put the heads back together?

[Dino]

I don't know yet.  The cam will have to go in first so I'm thinking of putting the heads back together when I have all the parts.  I'll have  to do some calculations to see when I can order all that.  I have some things up for sale but nothing's selling.  I have the valves al cleaned up and marked but I didn't touch the edges.  I have coarse and fine grinding paste and one of those stick tools, but haven't tried the actual lapping procedure.  I can order the valve springs and seals now, but as long as the rest of the engine isn't done I guess it's better to leave the heads in the bag until they can be assembled and bolted onto the block.

Getting them in the bag was easy actually.  I had them wrapped in the towels and set them on end, side by side, holding them in place with my leg.  I then slid the bag over them and gently laid them down.  Since the towels slide in the bag easily I pushed them all the way in without any effort, shut and vacuumed the bag, and then slid the whole thing under a table 3 feet away.  It's a carpeted room so it slides wherever you want it to.   

It's a heavy package but not so heavy that you can't lift it up.  I'm not going to try though as the bag may fail doing so.