Any Nitrous experts out there?

[73Charger]

I was wondering how much - if any - nitrous a crate 318 could take.  I probably would only use it a couple times a year.  I have a pretty stock 318 engine - bought from Autozone.  I run a mallory digital ignition, edle 600 carb, intake, headers, dual exhaust.  It has low compression (I'm assuming about the same or lower than the original) I run regular gas in it, but would consider putting an extra little tank in it if needed to increase octane during a race. It has stock rear end (2.xx?) and does the 1/4 in 2 gears when I shift it manually 16.884 @ 84.  its quite the dog at the track and was thinking if I could leave the new engine alone, and the gears and tires alone - I like getting good gas mileage for the 99 % of its use - that I could shave off a second or so with a little juice. 
What do you think? 
What would be needed to do it safely?
I've done nitrous on my race car, but I program the computer on that one.  This would be the first carb setup I've done. I'm guessing I would just back off the distributer timing a couple degrees / 50 hp shot and maybe add a tank with higher octane fuel for it to use? or would the low octane be ok since the compression is SO low?

[dodge freak]

It should take it ok but good luck with that Auto Zone motor. I am on my third brake booster from Auto Zone- first one started leaking after a few weeks and then got so bad the motor would idle very rough so I return it, second one hold vacuum fine but I could not lock the brakes up with one foot-now this ones ok but its been only 2 days. I hope the same place does not do their motors. I have never used Nitrous, does not last long enough for me. You need some better gears in back 3.21-3.23 would help knock a few tenths off. Check that rear end, some came with 2.45 if that is what you have 3.21 would make a big difference. Nitrous is not cheap and you would not lose much milage with a 3.21 unless you drive 80 mph for a hour or so everyday.

[73Charger]

Yeah - I never would have bought an engine from autozone myself, but it was bought and installed by the previous owner and I broke it in driving it home.  It has been great so far. My only complaint is a oil drip which I haven't located yet but my guess is it is the rear seal from getting installed.
I know nos isn't cheap, but its nice when you dont want to touch mileage or mess up rear gears with a bad install...

[dodge freak]

If it has 2.45 gears you are going to stress that motor with Nitrous. Ever ride a 5-10 speed bike? With 2.45's its like you trying to pedal up hill in high gear. You are going to lug that motor and that the worst thing for it-besides 7500 rpm's. Any trans shop can change gears for you and you will be happy how it goes. Jack the back up and rotate the tires and count how many turns the drive shaft turns, maybe draw a line on the shaft and one on the tire. If it has 2.45 get rid of them!. In the late 70's 2.94 gears were hi-performance Thats why your times are so bad. In town at 40-50 mphs your milage will be almost the same, it take off easier from the light so you CAN give it less gas, people don't and take off faster so their milage drops. I have 3.91's , That will kill your milage 3.21 will not.

[Beer]

I am starting to dabble with nitrous on my LS1 chevy. Here is what I have learned so far.

1. use a step colder plug, gapped appropraitely for the size hit you intend to use.
2. Start with small jets and log AFR, do not exceed an AFR of 12 or leaner, jet accordingly when setting the system up.
3. Need to pull timing, general rule of thumb is 2° per 50 HP.
4. Do not activiate less than 3000 rpms Window switch is pretty much necessary
5. Do not get greedy on the hit.

yes you need a Bottle heater (especially in northern states).

So far my expierence is with the fuel injected LS1 using a dry system and a wet plate system as a two stage.

I do have a spare manifold I may direct port for the 402 forged stroker I built for my 73 Charger, getting the body done is my holdback on that project.

[73Charger]

Thanks for the input.  Yeah - its a lot different on a carb car vs. our computer cars. I run nos on my LT4 for about 10 years now.
The one thing I worry about on the charger is - there is no easy way to monitor AFR accurately. Without drilling holes in exhaust and welding bungs, sensors, and gauges the only think I can think of doing is doing a quick run and shutting it down and pulling the plugs to look for any changes - that and listening for "ping" which - as you know is near impossible to do with one of our F-Body's thats modified. I have heard it - I think in my charger once, when I was playing with the timing to try to set it right.