Alternator upgrade

[Slider]

Hey everyone

Just wanted to let everyone know my experience upgrading the alternator on my 69 R/T clone. This board had a ton of info on it and it was a great help. Thanks to all that posted their info on alternators and electrical in general on these cars.

What a nightmare. My 69 was originally a 318 car and the previous owner (after blowing the engine) replaced it with a 440 and set it up for the track. Don't know too much about what was done to the engine other than the last time it was at the 1/4 mile track near here, before I got it, it had an 871 blower on it. He had made a ton of changes to run the 1/4 mile so it was a lot of fun figuring out exactly what was replaced to make it more of a drag car. The alternator, voltage regulator, ignition, fuel system, most of the electrical and tranny have all been modified. I wouldn't doubt even more has been modified but I haven't done a complete restore on it yet. Just having some fun before I tear it down this winter.

The alternator upgrade was forced due to the alternator going poof and not charging any more. Planning to make a pro touring car out of it so I wanted to upgrade to a higher amp alternator anyway. Wanted to do the upgrade on the cheap so I planned on doing some wrecking yard diving to get a replacement alternator. After some research here and other places on the web I decided on going with a nippon/denso alternator from a newer dodge. Found a 2003 Dakota truck with a 4.7L engine in it. It had a 135 amp computer controlled alternator. We had 15 minutes before the yard closed so went hard and grabbed the alternator and heavy wire from the alternator to the battery and the 2 wire plug for the alternator out of it. $40.00 bucks later they locked the doors behind us!

Now for the install... Part number on the alternator is a denso 56027 913ab. Physically it only needed a couple of minor mods. Shaved the power out terminal shield so it would rotate any direction I wanted it to go. It starts out D shaped and I made it round. Cut off some of the post for the wire connector so it was better protected by the shield as the back of the alternator comes very close to the head on the 440. Bolt size on the Charger is one size smaller then they used on the Dakota so I made a new sleeve to fit the 3/8" bolt and new bushing for the back support bracket on the alternator. Took off the serpentine belt pulley and also removed the V pulley from the old alternator. The V pulley has the exact size diameter hole needed for the new alternator but needed to put the V pulley on the lathe and take down both the front and back of the shaft support to fit it as tight as I could to the alternator and then get the nut back on. Thank goodness for the lathe! Ready to install on the car!

The previous owner upgraded the Voltage regulator with a Mopar performance regulator model P3690732. You can get it cheap from Summit. I wouldn't recommend this voltage reg for general street use. Holds the voltage a little too high..... For now it will suit my purpose. Wired in "run" + voltage to he regulator and attached the output post to one of the field terminal wires on the new alternator. Attached the other field terminal wire to the same ground the voltage regulator uses. The output on the alternator gets the heavy 8 gauge wire that the Dakota had on it. Ran it up over the front of the engine and across over to the stock battery location and tied it right into the battery connection terminal. All wired up!

Fired it up and tested the output voltage on the alternator without it hooked to the battery. Output was at 28 volts! What!!!! Oh yah, without the alternator connected to a voltage stabilizing source it runs rampant. That's why you never test the alternator on a newer car by pulling the battery connector. New alternators are so strong they can fry the whole electrical system. Connected the output to the battery and voila! Car now has 13.5 volts at idle (650rpm) and at 800rpm voltage rises to 14.6 volts and stays there right through to 6000 rpm. Lights don't dim at idle with the turn signals on any more and the electric fuel pump will keep up at idle indefinitely.

The only downside, if you want to call it that, is the amp meter no longer works other than to report just how much draw your accessories are taking. Adding a volt meter anyway so not so worried about the amp meter.

So for $40 and 3 hours work I went from a 30 amp alt to a 135 amp alt, solved the low voltage problem at idle and now have a much more reliable alternator installed! Now to go back to that Dakota and steal the under hood fuse box 

[A383Wing]

grab the mini starter also....if fuse box is gone, I got a couple here

[Slider]

grab the mini starter also....if fuse box is gone, I got a couple here

You telling me that little starter on the 4.7 is going to fit AND spin over the 440???  No Way!

[Bob]

grab the mini starter also....if fuse box is gone, I got a couple here

You telling me that little starter on the 4.7 is going to fit AND spin over the 440???  No Way!

Way. Same starter on my 400.

[BLK 68 R/T]

  Pretty common swap.

[Slider]

That must save a few pounds too. Add that one to the list. Thanks guys!

[BLK 68 R/T]

Saves a few pounds yes, but the main benefit is the faster cranking capability that they provide.

[A383Wing]

the little starter spins my engine twice as fast...and if the starter ever fails, they are found on any corner parts store, but what usually fails is the contact points inside, easily replaced for less than $20

[Slider]

OK, so you told me that starter would fit, and even spin the engine. Dang if you weren't right. Nice upgrade! Thanks again everyone!

[BLK 68 R/T]

 

[A383Wing]

   glad to be of service

[nascarxx29]

Used to go to junkyard for $ 50 .00 a 92 Dakota starter would fit  a 383 440 -      


http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/elec/1.html


Ask for a starter from a:
- 1988-1989 Fifth Ave/Diplomat/Gran Fury
- 1988-present Dodge Truck, Van or Dakota with the 3.9 V6 or 318/360 engines
Somewhere in the 1990s, the mini starter was redesigned - the new design was lighter than the original 1988 starter. I am not sure of the exact year...maybe 1991??

[JoeAmato]

Watch those high amp alternators...I had a Powermaster 80 amp burn up both the dash harness and engine harness on a '69.  Highly recommended to replace the ancient harnesses along with the new alternator just for gits and shiggles. Mopar Forever.

[myk]

Agreed.  OP if you really did read up on all of the alternator swaps here, then you know all of those swaps ran the danger of torching the old wiring.  I'd check your harnesses just  to be sure...