Manual disk brakes on a 2nd Gen. Charger?

[b5blue]

  I just was wondering if any have done the Disk o Tech swap with manual brakes and what master cylinder you used? How do you like it? I see masters have 15/16th" and 1.32" bores available, the trade off being peddle travel is longer for the 15/16th bore. 
  I want to set the car up so it's easy to drive for my kids use. 

[b5blue]

Well I'm testing a new 76 Aspen manual master. I'll chime in on how it feels and works out. (When it gets here.)

[matrout76]

I'm kinda wondering the same thing.  My 69 is a manual brake drum car and i have disk brake parts off an early 80's Diplomat.  I need to figure out if I need to add a power booster and master cylinder, or if I can get a manual disk master cylinder...

[b5blue]

I'll know by the end of the month, I've got some other parts to swap out before running it again.

[A383Wing]

my 70 was a manual front disc brake car originally

[terrible one]

I converted to manual front discs with OEM single piston calipers and used a master with a 1 1/32 bore, Centric #13063019 spec'd for a 74 Dart with manual disc brakes. The pedal feel is great, and I have no problem stopping the car. Also the brakes lock up/ pedal travel ends a good ways from the floor even when I'm standin on it so I'm pleased overall.

Went with an adjustable pushrod which probably helped the pedal feel. It is made of two ends threaded together and a jam nut so you can really fine tune it to take the "slack" out so the brake pedal is at its highest point and the plunger starts moving as soon as the brake pedal is pressed.

I would be curious to try the smaller 15/16" bore but not enough to make me want to buy one or go through the effort to swap. I thought the smaller bore would mean less pedal travel/ more firm of a pedal

Neal, what bore size is the '76 Aspen master that you chose?

[comet_666]

I used this setup when switching from manual drum to disc in the front.

https://www.performanceonline.com/62-74-MOPAR-Chrysler-Dodge-Plymouth-Disc-Brake-Conversion-Kit/

http://www.mpbrakes.com/accessories/master-cylinders/master-cylinder-mopar-style-1-bore-lh-ports-deep-piston-hole-mc11571p-m

[b5blue]

I converted to manual front discs with OEM single piston calipers and used a master with a 1 1/32 bore, Centric #13063019 spec'd for a 74 Dart with manual disc brakes. The pedal feel is great, and I have no problem stopping the car. Also the brakes lock up/ pedal travel ends a good ways from the floor even when I'm standin on it so I'm pleased overall.

Went with an adjustable pushrod which probably helped the pedal feel. It is made of two ends threaded together and a jam nut so you can really fine tune it to take the "slack" out so the brake pedal is at its highest point and the plunger starts moving as soon as the brake pedal is pressed.

I would be curious to try the smaller 15/16" bore but not enough to make me want to buy one or go through the effort to swap. I thought the smaller bore would mean less pedal travel/ more firm of a pedal

Neal, what bore size is the '76 Aspen master that you chose?

The Raybestos MC36412 from Rock (58.00) has the 1.32 bore, all Aspen MC's for 76 spec the same bore. (?) The "manual" part of the spec just insures the recess is in the back of the plunger for the pushrod's rubber retainer do-dad I think. I checked it's there, and a do-dad is included along with a bunch of assorted plastic screw in plugs of various sizes. I've understood the 15/16 bore cylinders require less effort with the trade off longer travel. 
  I've driven my car so long with no gas peddle I've gotten use to just stepping on the bar. When I converted to manual it placed the brake peddle a good bit higher at rest. I bought an adjustable rod from Dr. Diff just to lower it.  So the longer travel part of the 15/16th bore was what had me trying 1 1/32nd bore master. I want my controls where they feel right for me. (I installed my Sidewinder shifter back near the seats for easy reach also.)
  One thing I've noticed is the steel masters have no provision for a dust boot to seal the pushrod? I've also found reference on F Body forums to a large spring and a clip that engages the factory pushrod to hold the spring's tension against the dead weight of the peddle? (It would take some pressure off the masters internal spring.)  I'd like more info both aspects of these details if any know?     

[b5blue]

  The new master and lines installed problem free. I attached a throttle spring from the bottom of the dash to near the push rod to give some pull against the dead weight of the brake peddle resting against the return spring inside the master.  This time I carefully applied a thin coat of anti size lube to the brake line nuts and the back side of the flair on the tube the nut contacts. I was extremely careful that none could contact any brake fluid to contaminate and it really helped smooth out compressing to a tight seal.
  The travel is much less than the smaller bore of the "73 only manual disk master cylinder" that measured 15/16 as close as I could tell. Test drive will have to wait until I install my new carb and used CH4B intake.   

[terrible one]

After reading your last post I decided I might should see about doing the same. I thought I remembered some kind of spring present when I did my disc brake swap. Sure enough, it was still hanging there loose after all these years! It looks like it has been there a long time so I'm guessing it was factory with the power drums. With a little effort I was able to get the free end hooked to my manual pushrod and it did make a noticeable difference in how fast and strong the pedal returns

[b5blue]

The spring you have was part of the Z bar stuff I know what you mean. It should help some. 

[b5blue]

Testing yesterday, this master feels good with my setup. Pedal feel and travel okay, next is to adjust F/R bias and try harder braking. 

[Kern Dog]

Glad it worked out.
I have wanted to run a NON power master cylinder setup with my 4 wheel disc brakes. Years ago I tried 4 different master cylinders but none of them stopped the car very well. I'm thinking now that I might have had an OEM disc/drum proportioning valve. 4 wheel disc systems need NO proportioning, just a distribution block since the sizes of the caliper pistons should determine the proper proportioning.

[b5blue]

Good point.