Project Trunk Floor: 70 RT SE Sunroof

[bad88t-top]

HI guys,
I'm trying to decide if I want to go with a 1 piece or 2 piece trunk floor from AMD.  I'm just not certain what all needs removed to install a 1 piece.  I plan on removing the lower valance so I can gain access to the rear cross member that's a little crusty in the back corners.  I'd rather not remove the tail panel that houses the tail lights so I can ensure I maintain the proper width.  At this point I have all of the spot welds cut and a majority of the floor removed.  I'm at the point where I need to order some sheet metal and want to make sure my plan works out with the 1 piece floor.  Any information would be greatly appreciated.   Thanks,  Bill

[Cncguy]

I would prefer the 1 piece myself. If you can get it in through the back go for it. Or if you plan on removing a quarter panel maybe able to slide in through the side.
The advantages of a 1 piece would be its already correct width and no seam.

[green69rt]

If you remove the lower valance, trunk lock bracket and the bumper reinforcement brackets then you can get a one piece trunk floor in.  You might even get away with leaving the bumper reinforcement brackets in but I don't think so.  Since the floor goes under these items and you have to lift them anyway, it shouldn't be an issue.

I haven't heard of anyone sliding it in thru the quarter opening.

[bad88t-top]

Thanks for the feedback.  I already removed the bumper reinforcement brackets (what a pita) so that won't be an issue.   I never thought about the truck lock bracket but that doesn't seem too bad to remove with a spot weld cutter.   I already have the floor off so that was half the battle.  Have you used the AMD 1 piece floor?   If so do they usually fall into place with minimal adjusting, clamp, and weld?  Thanks again

[charger_fan_4ever]

Thanks for the feedback.  I already removed the bumper reinforcement brackets (what a pita) so that won't be an issue.   I never thought about the truck lock bracket but that doesn't seem too bad to remove with a spot weld cutter.   I already have the floor off so that was half the battle.  Have you used the AMD 1 piece floor?   If so do they usually fall into place with minimal adjusting, clamp, and weld?  Thanks again

I used AMD full 1/4's, dutchamn panel, rear window frame,tail panel,valence,valance corners,roof skin,front floor,one outer rocker,door skin,inner/outer wheelwells,trunk floor with extensions. I know a lot of AMD lol

Best fitting piece was the 1 piece trunk pan.

[Bronzedodge]

Go with the one piece.  I'm helping a friend with his 72 Barracuda, the two piece makes it a pain.  The repo panels already are not a 100% spot on fit, adding another variable makes it worse IMHO.   

[bad88t-top]

Thanks for the feedback everyone.   I got the rest of the floor out on Saturday, the trunk lock bracket, and the valance.  The valance will be reused as it's clean but the rear cross member and the corners will be replaced with AMD pieces in addition to the filler panel.  No sense it putting them back on if they're questionable.  I've discovered if you're patient, take your time, and have an air drill, air hammer, spot weld cutter, and cut off wheel you can do this stuff rather simply.  I'm thinking the install shouldn't be so bad as it's a matter of clamping and welding.  Especially now that I have all the frame rails, cross members, and tubs cleaned up and ready.  Thanks again for the info.   Bill

[green69rt]

Thanks for the feedback everyone.   I got the rest of the floor out on Saturday, the trunk lock bracket, and the valance.  The valance will be reused as it's clean but the rear cross member and the corners will be replaced with AMD pieces in addition to the filler panel.  No sense it putting them back on if they're questionable.  I've discovered if you're patient, take your time, and have an air drill, air hammer, spot weld cutter, and cut off wheel you can do this stuff rather simply.  I'm thinking the install shouldn't be so bad as it's a matter of clamping and welding.  Especially now that I have all the frame rails, cross members, and tubs cleaned up and ready.  Thanks again for the info.   Bill

If you take out the rear cross member you need to be careful how you attach everything when you put it back.  The valance corners, trunk floor extensions and quarter panels, all come together there.  Not obvious!!

[six-tee-nine]

Green69RT is right, if you remove the rear crossmember weld a brace between the frame rails. (temporary)

If you remove the trunk extentions, the quarters and the lower rear valace then the rear of the body becomes flimsy if you support the body at the rear of the car (or standing on the wheels) the roofline will sag down. By this I mean the taillight buckets will drop closer to the trunk floor.

Nothing you cant overcome but take measurementsand and then go ahead...

[Charger-Bodie]

I would leave the rear crossmember in place until after you've installed the trunk floor for the most part. That way you can use each as reference for the other when making sure it's staying the same back there. Plus if you have both out there would be a very easy way to brace things to change the rear body panel ( crossmember)


A trunk floor will not fit thru the space left by removing a quarter panel.  It will go thru the space from the valance being off though.

[bad88t-top]

Thanks for the feedback guys.   The cross member in the middle of the trunk floor continues to remain in place as it's in good condition.  I left the tail panel in place but did remove the rear valance the the rear most cross member.   The frame rails and everything else back there seem to be very sturdy and don't move much at all.  I did remove the valance and cross member in whole pieces so it shouldn't be difficult to see where the factory welds were.   If I should keep an eye out for anything when assembling please let me know as you now have me concerned I didn't think of something.   I left the trunk extensions along in addition to the quarters.  I have the car up on the lift so access is easy.   Oh boy

[green69rt]

OK, since you have so much cut off I'm going to throw out this for consideration.  I assume you have taken the valance corners off.  There is a thread here that describes how to put everything back together.  It's not obvious.  CDR came up with a method and maybe he'll see this note??

[six-tee-nine]

Yes, and if you use AMD parts, the Valance end caps wont fit to the quarters properly. You will need to slice the quarter to make the seam fit.

[green69rt]

Here's what CDR did and a quote from his thread.....


http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,90903.475.html

Quoting from CDR.  "3rd is the lower 1/4 end caps,seems they dont fit,everyone slices them & adds metal at the cap to 1/4 seam,well my car was untouched in this area & what i found is,the factory welded the cap on the 1/4 before installing it,then hang the panel,then to get the cap fit correct they would twist the end of the rear cross member,right where the end cap welds on,most people have to replace this cross member & they are straight & their original was rusted & gone & did not know that the ends had been hit in or twisted from the factory on MOST cars .no slicing on mine,they fit great."

[Cncguy]

Here's what CDR did and a quote from his thread.....


http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,90903.475.html

Quoting from CDR.  "3rd is the lower 1/4 end caps,seems they dont fit,everyone slices them & adds metal at the cap to 1/4 seam,well my car was untouched in this area & what i found is,the factory welded the cap on the 1/4 before installing it,then hang the panel,then to get the cap fit correct they would twist the end of the rear cross member,right where the end cap welds on,most people have to replace this cross member & they are straight & their original was rusted & gone & did not know that the ends had been hit in or twisted from the factory on MOST cars .no slicing on mine,they fit great."

Twisted how? Anyone have pics?

[oldcarnut]

How about some pics please    I got to do my Road Runner and I know there are some differences but it would be nice to see some visuals.

[green69rt]

I haven't done this myself but this is what I understand is the way CDR did it.

I didn't find very good pics but a few.  Also here is NHchargers thread on what he did which is the way a lot of folks go at it.  

Pic one is a rusted out end of a cross member, so all the connections to the corners, trunk floor extensions and quarter are lost.

Pic 2 is a closer shot of the end showing that the original cross member has a "dog leg" at the end.  This "dog leg" profile is the thing you need to adjust.  I think a lot of repros are straight all across or are not long enough to include the dogleg.

So first fit the corner to the quarter, no cutting, splicing etc.

Now bend the flang on the cross member so the flange on the corner mates up to the cross member.

Now fit the rear valance so the corners mate up.  No cutting of anything.

Here's a thread of NHcharger doing a lot of cutting and splicing that all of us have done in the past.  Mainly because we add the quater, cross member and valance first  THEN try to thy them all together with the corner.


http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,90903.475.html

Oh, and somewhere in this process, you will have to mock up the trunk floor extension.  Simple right....

[green69rt]

If this works for you, it would really help the hobby if you documented it with a lot of pictures as you go.