Anyone used Hotchkis adjustable strut rods?

[b5blue]

  I'm doing a Disk-O-Tech 11.75 rotor conversion to my 70 Charger. Last suspension rebuild alignment indicated I was just shy of ideal caster/camber settings so I've collected parts to get to ideal. I've got new UCA's that I'll install offset Moog UCA bushings in and have Hotchkis adjustable strut rods ordered.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Hotchkis/515/14366/10002/-1?parentProductId=1184475
  I'm trying to decide between staggering the offsets or just installing as intended.
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,60100.msg671247.html#msg671247
  If I stagger (Per link above.) I'm assured caster will be good as it will slightly move upper ball joint (That will now be new.) and can fine tune a bit with the adjustable struts if needed. If offset's are installed as intended I can pick up some extra camber and let the caster tweak some with the strut rods adjust-ability.
  The entire suspension was serviced a few years back and is in good working order, the car drives/rides/handles better than it ever did before. I didn't replace everything like tie rods that were still tight but soft parts like the idler arm's bushing, strut rod bushings and upper/lower control arm bushings all got new Moog parts. (New Moog lower ball joints installed also.) The Hotchkis rods have solid mounts, that will be the only non-factory type mod to suspension other than plates added to the bottom of the LCA's.
  If you've used these strut rods, how did you like adjust-ability of caster? (Again I don't need much to get to ideal.) My settings were maxed out to get close last time and I'm hoping the solid mount struts plant the end of the LCA's firmer than the rubber mount does, it's the only aspect of the factory suspension that's acted up on me in the past.   

[myk]

Excellent question.  I wish I could answer but my Hotchkis s-rods aren't going in for another month or so...

[HPP]

When I was a vendor, I sold a few sets of adjustable struts. I don't have them on my own car, however. They are fine if you are trying to achieve some fine tuning. You want to install them in without the T-bars in so you can move them up and down and verify you aren't introducing bind into the typical range of motion that would be +/-3 from static, not the whole range of motion.

IMO, I would still offset the upper bushings. In my experience, the lack of caster is a bigger detriment to good handling and driver feedback than lack of camber. Plus, if you did want extra camber you can swap to A body arms or install hardened washers between the lower ball joint and spindle to get easy range increases.

[b5blue]

  Thanks for the input!  Your getting my concern I don't want to pull forward on the LCA's just to achieve caster and have binding or loading on the bushings so good advise that I will use.   
  I've been trying to figure the best way to adjust ride height in the rear a bit better also. The Mopar HD rear spring set has the passengers side a bit higher from the extra leaf in that sides spring. With the spare tire and my big butt on the drivers side it only gets worse.  I see I can get forward, rear spring mounts that allow for 1" lowering, I wonder if that might get me most of the way there if I used that 1" lowering on just the passengers side.    From reading the Mopar Chassis book getting things square and even as possible before alignment is the way to go.
 

[HPP]

There are a few options on the leafs. You could pick up another passenger side spring to install on the driver's side. This will balance it out rate wise. You can pick up hangers with dual mounting holes and lower one side. This does introduce a slight geometric difference, but should not be a huge detriment. You could also turn the drivers side t-bar up a couple extra turns over the passenger side. This offsets the diagonal bias introduced by the passenger side rear spring.

[b5blue]

Ordered front spring hangers from Rick E. off eBay. 

[b5blue]

  I installed just the passengers side dual height front spring hanger today in the "lowered" position and worked out nice leveling the rear. I also installed the offset UCA bushings in my new repop UCA's staggered to increase caster. The Hotchkis solid mount adjustable strut rods came in, nice parts. The ball-in-socket/front bracket assembly has plenty of allowance for the arc of travel for the LCA's so there will not be any binding issue. (I'll still confirm range of motion installing as suggested.) 

[fy469rtse]

Firm feel have a better set of these , more adjustability ,
Have ordered these , it will help me get more positive castor ,
Not after a lot , just an improvement , 4 wheel alignment as well ? , wil post results once fitted and the proper alignment done

[b5blue]

Firm feel have a better set of these , more adjust-ability ,
Have ordered these , it will help me get more positive castor ,
Not after a lot , just an improvement , 4 wheel alignment as well ? , wil post results once fitted and the proper alignment done

Good we can compare notes. (If I manage to get my brake lines loose to do the brake swap.  ) Here is how the new bushings are installed in the new UCA's. Only off a bit before so this will set things right and the struts will lock things down in place.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,60100.msg671247.html#msg671247

[fy469rtse]

Well , got mine in,
Mainly because max castor was dialed in, going to change my upper bushes as well to the offset ones also,
Will have to get a wheel alignment again,
But these strut rods were a set in the right direction, they don't bind action of bottom arm , but they do control float on the bottom arm ,
It took wheel alignment guy a few goes to get it right, because factory soft strut rod bushes and toe in settings now different , when you first take off noticeably different , bottom arms now don't drag back, feels more modern,
Didn't want to pull arms forward for more positive castor, only used to set to get 4 wheel alignment right,
Pedders
suspension make a set over here as well urethane I think, ? Are the moog ones rubber, I think I would prefer rubber ones

[b5blue]

   I only use rubber, Moog. Most local parts store can get Moog overnight faster and cheaper then shipped I've found. Advance did for me, just check parts at the counter before paying. (NAPA's were crappy looking bushings and from several outsourced country's, that surprised me.)
   I thought long and hard about the strut rod thing, the stock stuff is so rugged and has such a good ride. In 20 years the only thing that's ever given any trouble was the bushings on them so we'll see.    Still waiting on a few parts to come in before starting.