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Thoughts and Opinions on this '70??

Started by PrisonHack, February 06, 2015, 08:54:34 AM

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PrisonHack

 No apologies neccessary, you are probably right.  My wheels are just turning and considering, but all in all it would probably be better to wait unless it was say 1500-2K cheaper.

PrisonHack


tipopiola

Quote from: PrisonHack on February 12, 2015, 11:45:35 AM
No apologies neccessary, you are probably right.  My wheels are just turning and considering, but all in all it would probably be better to wait unless it was say 1500-2K cheaper.


I usually assume that there's somewhere between a little and a lot of wiggle room on price when someone lists something on Craigslist.  I figure he wants $5000, and he knows that whoever picks it up is gonna lowball him a little bit so he put the price at $7000.  I think that's kind of a given when dealing with old/used/collectable anything being put up for sale by a private party.  

tipopiola

I just looked at the ad again, wasn't it $7000 before, I swear I saw it for sale for $7000?  Looks like he dropped it to $6500...its a step in the right direction.

70 sublime

I know the Charger I have now is not the first Charger I ever bought
I worked my way up to it learning on all the other cars along the way of what to look for and stay away from

If you have never had a Charger it does not mean you have to keep this one for ever

You see what other Chargers are selling for if this one is not the one just work on it some maybe get some kind of motor in it and then sell it IF you can find something better

That way you will not be on the outside looking in anymore  ;)
next project 70 Charger FJ5 green

PrisonHack

 I ask if he would take 5K he countered with 5500

tipopiola

Quote from: PrisonHack on February 12, 2015, 01:05:24 PM
I ask if he would take 5K he countered with 5500

Cool, tell him $5250 and you'll come with hundred dollar bills....and 1 fifty!   :2thumbs:

PrisonHack

If I decide on it I am definently going to ask him to come down the amount it cost me for fuel in my buddys rollback

PrisonHack

Pictures

PrisonHack

more

The70RT

If he throws in the grill and the bumper maybe it would sell.
<br /><br />Uploaded with ImageShack.us

PrisonHack


rt green

included? really....   hmmmmmm........this is sounding better. do you think you're up it?
third string oil changer

PrisonHack

 I may have a false sense of confidence because of the bathroom remodel I am just finishing up.  I have no experience cutting and welding metal though, it would be learn as I go.

lukedukem

Quote from: PrisonHack on February 12, 2015, 09:50:28 PM
I may have a false sense of confidence because of the bathroom remodel I am just finishing up.  I have no experience cutting and welding metal though, it would be learn as I go.


so does this mean you are gonna go for it?

luke
1969 Charger XP29F9B226768
1981 CJ7 I6 258ci
2016 F150, 5.0, FX4, CC

70 sublime

If you get a chance to go look at it make sure the frame that holds the back end of the torsion bars is good also
next project 70 Charger FJ5 green

PrisonHack

Quote from: lukedukem on February 13, 2015, 09:57:15 AM
Quote from: PrisonHack on February 12, 2015, 09:50:28 PM
I may have a false sense of confidence because of the bathroom remodel I am just finishing up.  I have no experience cutting and welding metal though, it would be learn as I go.


so does this mean you are gonna go for it?

luke

Still not sure

PrisonHack

Quote from: 70 sublime on February 13, 2015, 10:05:08 AM
If you get a chance to go look at it make sure the frame that holds the back end of the torsion bars is good also
Have a picture of this area?

lukedukem

in this thread there is some pics of the area he is referring to.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,1657.0.html

the one your looking at will most likely not have the frame ties but these pics are good examples of the area



Luke
1969 Charger XP29F9B226768
1981 CJ7 I6 258ci
2016 F150, 5.0, FX4, CC

PrisonHack

 Ok I see what your saying, right beside where he has the sub-frame connectors bolted in correct?  Im used to looking at a fox body rack and pinion setip, I know nothing about torsion bars or the front end in general on these

lukedukem

Quote from: PrisonHack on February 13, 2015, 11:15:36 AM
Ok I see what your saying, right beside where he has the sub-frame connectors bolted in correct?  Im used to looking at a fox body rack and pinion setip, I know nothing about torsion bars or the front end in general on these

correct :2thumbs:

luke
1969 Charger XP29F9B226768
1981 CJ7 I6 258ci
2016 F150, 5.0, FX4, CC

70 sublime

Pictures from my own stuff over the years

first 2 you want
last 2 stay away (was my parts car)

next project 70 Charger FJ5 green

PrisonHack

Yikes there is nothing left in the third picture  :eek2:   This is good info whether I buy this car or keep looking, thanks guys.

Troy

I gotta say, from selling off several of my cars I'd have felt like I hit the lottery if someone would have given me that much for a car in that condition. Maybe prices are higher these days - but if it was a great deal it'd be gone by now.

I can also say, as a person with no body work experience myself, that buying a car that needs a LOT of metal work is a horrible idea. I kept the best ones I had and the amount of effort I've put into just one car is staggering. Going on 3 years now for my "easy resto". I have learned to weld and block sand but, seriously, I'd be so much farther ahead if I'd have A) bought a better car or B) paid someone to fix it. Option B is way more expensive than option A! Doing it yourself sounds like a brilliant plan until you factor in the tools and time (especially to do things more than once). I have a $1,600 rotisserie, $1,300 compressor, $900 welder, $150 welding mask, $250 in body hammers/dollies, $75 sanding blocks, several hundred dollars in air tools and spray guns, and then all the consumables: $300 welding gas (had to pay the tank deposit), $30 welding wire, $150 in sanding discs, $75 in grinding discs, $30 in sanding belts, $30 spot weld cutter(s), $300 in rust remover/metal wash/protectant/weld through primer/etching primer, $200 in various grits of sand paper for block sanding, $150 epoxy primer, $100 filler primer, $120 in various body fillers, $100 in seam sealer, and untold amount of masking tape, masking paper, and drop cloth plastic. I have no idea how much electricity and water I've used. And then there's all the stuff you lose and/or destroy getting it apart that you have to replace: window seals, clips, body plugs and gaskets, light lenses, wiring, wiring clips, hoses, and so on.

Granted, at one point I had eight projects so some of that costs gets spread around (except consumables). Labor still accumulates though.

Then you get to learn how to recover seats, install a headliner, fight with carpet that has lumps in the wrong places, rebuild an engine, transmission, rear axle, and brakes. You know, the easy stuff.

After my wealth of experience, I seriously think (most) people should just find a way to buy a "done" car and drive the heck out of it.

Troy
Sarcasm detector, that's a real good invention.

PrisonHack

 I appreciate you sharing your experience and opinion, like I said I haven't commited to it. I guess I got a little excited because it's the first charger I have seen for sale in a three hour driving radius. Im really leaning towards waiting a little longer and spending more. My budget would allow me to purchase the car and the replacement metal at the moment but after that it would be save a little and fix a little over and over. If I keep saving at the rate Im going for another year It might be smarter to use someone like JJ Best and put my saving towards a down payment on a mostly turn key car. Making the payments wouldn't be much different that buying parts and materials each month I suppose.