Replacing 2-Wire Alternator With A 1-Wire Alternator

[Needa68]

Hello Everyone: A friend of mine has recruited me to help him install a BilletSpecialties Tru Trac Serpentine belt system on his 69 big block MOPAR.

http://www.billetspecialties.com/item.asp?cid=23&scid=184&pid=793

This system comes with a Polished Powermaster 105 amp 1-wire alternator with built in regulator. My friend's MOPAR is currently equipped with an orange box electronic ignition system and a HD alternator regulator which function well together.

I've never replaced a 2-wire alternator with a 1-wire alternator before. Consequently, I am not exactly sure as to the wiring changes needed.

In looking at the electrical schematic, it appears as if only the Field (FLD) wire (R3-18-DGN) from the alternator to the alternator regulator and the alternator regulator itself should be removed. I believe these to be the only modifications required because on the positive side (IGN side) of the alternator regulator, wire J2-16-DBL* which connects to the ignition switch and J2A-16-DBL which connects to the ignition ballast resistor are already connected.

Am I on the right track here or are other modifications required? Thanks in advance for any assistance you may care to provide.

RHM,Jr.

[Chatt69chgr]

Calling Nacho!!!

[Nacho-RT74]

one wire alternator ? are we talking about one wire to field and the main stud output wire OR just the output wire ?

If is the alternator I think, the regulator is not really BUILT IN like simply ATTACHED to the exterior of alternator. I think that one works the same than the regular stock "double fields" alternators, but simply shortening the regulated ground wire LOL being now is mounted on to alt, not on firewall and now regulator taking the ground from alt housing instead firewall, but working exactly the same than the stock electronic units and setup. If that's the case, yes you just need to eliminate the green wire coming from electronic Mopar regulator up to field and the small blue splice was feeding the regulator on firewall

I'm assuming you already had double field alt and electronic regulator setup. RIGHT ?

if you had the older system with single field alt and mechanical regulator, just need to splice together the green and blue wires connected to old mechanical regulator and VOILA!!! of course the blue wire is becoming on green. If you want acurated instalation with right colors, would replace the green for a blue wire and splice on same point

alternator pics will be great thought!

[Needa68]

Thanks for responding, Nacho. I've not physically seen the alternator. The kit hasn't arrived, yet! All the description says is that it is a 1-wire alternator. I'll give you more details when I see the critter. I'll also post a picture.

The alternator on the car now has one field and one positive wire. It's hooked to an external regulator on the firewall. Your last statement confirms what I felt needed to be done. I'll post more info on the new alternator when arrives.

Thanks again for your response. It's appreciated!

[Nacho-RT74]

ok so you have a mechanical regulator with a matching one field alt ? Thats the stock setup on a 68

[John_Kunkel]

\
The Powermaster 1-wire alternator supplied with the BS kit needs only the large battery wire connected, all of the existing field wires and the regulator can be discarded.

The existing battery wire will be either 10 or 12 gauge which isn't really sufficient for the 105 amp unit, a 6 gauge would be better. Run it directly to the battery post on the starter relay and bypass the factory ammeter, it won't handle that many amps.

Remove the blue wire from the regulator and insulate it, then remove the regulator and green field wire.

[Nacho-RT74]

Ok, so we have now more info about... thanks Jhon.

BTW will support FOR LIFE that no need for ammeter bypass if things are correctly done

[Needa68]

\
The Powermaster 1-wire alternator supplied with the BS kit needs only the large battery wire connected, all of the existing field wires and the regulator can be discarded.

The existing battery wire will be either 10 or 12 gauge which isn't really sufficient for the 105 amp unit, a 6 gauge would be better. Run it directly to the battery post on the starter relay and bypass the factory ammeter, it won't handle that many amps.

Remove the blue wire from the regulator and insulate it, then remove the regulator and green field wire.

Ok! I finally have the alternator. It's a PowerMaster GM CS Series Performance Alternator. I couldn't find a type # but on the literature type numbers are 17802, 17861, 37802, 37861, 48206, 48208 or 48229. Here is a picture of it:

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc255/robertmitchell32000/IM005653.jpg

It has one fields wire and one power wire. I purchased a GM connector so as to access the field connection. So, do I have the alternator you thought? Do I need to do the things you recommend. Your help is appreciated.

[Nacho-RT74]

REALLY I dunno personally those alternators... let me search for info about those

[Needa68]

Nacho: I'm out of time! I'm going to wire it up tomorrow. I'll post what I did and what I learned. Thanks!

RHM,Jr.

[Nacho-RT74]

Sorry took all this time

if does have one field and the big power output conector, then the field should it be a keyed source. IF does have internal regulator you can splice the green and blue wires together from your existant mechanical regulator to get the keyed source, and then bypass any external regulator you have around.

If is not with built in regulator, then will need to keep using the external regulator like factory did.

I can't tell for sure since I don't really know these alts.

NO INSTRUCTIONS WITH ALTERNATOR ? I can't find anything on the web!

[Nacho-RT74]

OK FOUND IT

aparently the CS series is made in two versions ( found for example the 130 ! )... CS130
http://www.vichubbard.com/auto-part-detail/powermaster-47860.html

and CS130D
http://www.vichubbard.com/auto-part-detail/powermaster-182081.html

... and aparently the D ONE is the internal BUILT IN regulator kind, so if you don't have the D version then you still need to keep the external regulator... wired just like your original factory one it was. If it is D version, regulator is built in, then remove the External reg and splice both wires together

( just compairing for the CS code, not the PN or specific model )

if thats teh case, WHY THE HELL still is called one wire if needs to feed the field ? ( whatever with or whitout reg ).

you could jump from the external main post alt to the field though, but won't be a keyed source, would it be constant powered. Internally regulated but allways ON. If you ask me, I don't like that. Personally I preffer cut the power

[Needa68]

John_Kunkel and Nacho-RT74:

Thank you for your responses to my query.

As John advised the alternator does in fact only require one wire. I made the modifications recommended to include the 6 gauge wire connection between the alternator and the starter relay. When we fired it up all worked as it should.

The addition of the serpentine belt system required other wiring changes. These modifications were required because the locations of the AC compressor and alternator were reversed by installing the serpentine belt system. We also added an electric radiator fan and an AC idle selinoid. 

Because of reversing the locations of the alternator and AC compressor the plumbing for the new AC system took up the area on the passenger side where the horn (beep, beep), horn relay and the windshield washer bottle are normally located. These were moved to the driver side and the battery moved from the driver side to the trunk.

If interested you can view pictures of the engine bay work at this location:

http://s218.photobucket.com/albums/cc255/robertmitchell32000/69%20Roadrunner/?albumview=slideshow

Again, thanks for your assistance.

RHM, Jr.

[HPP]

If is the alternator I think, the regulator is not really BUILT IN like simply ATTACHED to the exterior of alternator. I think that one works the same than the regular stock "double fields" alternators, but simply shortening the regulated ground wire LOL being now is mounted on to alt, not on firewall and now regulator taking the ground from alt housing instead firewall, but working exactly the same than the stock electronic units and setup. If that's the case, yes you just need to eliminate the green wire coming from electronic Mopar regulator up to field and the small blue splice was feeding the regulator on firewall

So Nacho, question for you. Based on the comment above, Powermaster 175091 one wire alternator ( like this one http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-175091, click enlarge and rotate to see backside of the case) could be converted back to regular OEM regulator use by removing the Powermaster regulator and wiring bolted to the alternator case?

Conversely, to leave the Powermaster regulator in place, unplug the factory regulator and jump the blue wire to the green wire?

[mopar0166]

Loving my power master with 1 line charging system .   

[HPP]

 I had one in my drag car and loved it. Trying to decide if I want to transplant it into my current street project or not.

Did you by pass the factory regulator like I outlined above?

[mopar0166]

yes , it has an internal regulator,  but for looks you can still mount a fake one, if you want a stock look. 

my 440 has never been happier 

[HPP]

If I go one wire,  I'd rather dismount the stock regulator and eliminate wiring. However, because of how the electrical system is all tied together, I believe you need to jump the blue and green wires in the stock harness to bypass the OEM regulator and still have everything function.

However, the Powermaster's "internal" regulator that hangs on the outside of the housing isn't exactly attractive, IMO, so I'm trying to decide if I should remove their regulator and wiring and use the factory three wire set up.