Finally on to the motor! 1st step: survey the damage : OH NO!!! NEW PICS

[timmycharger]

Thanks guys, I hear you on what you are saying. I don't mind putting in a few bucks if it will get me a few years.  My first plan was to start a new build with a new rotating assembly but after 12 years of restoring this car, my plan changed to just cleaning this motor and putting a set of Eddy heads on it and build the motor I want over the next few years and when my sons are a little bigger, can help me swap it out.

Id say this motor lived a very full life, not many miles actually but I beat the snot out of it at the track.    I accelerated its destruction with the imbalance, and several 6500 rpm shifts.

For the heck of it, Ill have the shop take a look and give me a quote, if its not ridiculous, Ill consider it. This time around it wont see anything near that kind of rpm.

[Sublime/Sixpack]

Sometimes you can get by with freshening up an engine with fairly good results for your intended purpose, but in this case I suggest you listen to Challenger340.   Your engine definitely has issues. Anything other than a full rebuild would be a waste of your time and money.

[BSB67]

Maybe I just like to be different. 

I don't see anything that scares me in those pictures.  Lube up the pins and work the rod/piston back and forth to loosen up the tight ones. Hand polish the crank , ball hone the cylinders, and put new rings and bearings in it and put it back together.  The thing I would be a little concerned about is the rods/bolts.  Keep it below 5600 rpm and don't let it detonate, and I think you'll be fine.

[fy469rtse]

from above post,
your not in a hurry, do it properly, going in the car in back ground ?you have time
do it as you can afford, in stages
new pistons , rods first
blocked honed to match those pistons, torque plates used , basics just to ensure good uniformed compression,
after market lighter rods will enable it to spin up quicker, you will be able to re balance crank rods pistons when you take block in for basic machining,
crank polished , if bottom of cylinder bores match the skirts on those pistons , will need doing

[Roctania]

"the entire pin is moving vs. the end of the rod meaning the rod is stuck to the pin."

Isn't that the proper method?
Most engines have the pin tight in the rod, and floating in the piston with under 0.001" clearance.
Unless the pin is floating in both, then you need rings to prevent the pins from moving endwise.

The piston looks scuffed like it ran hot or was too large for its bore.  Forged pistons require more bore clearance than some machinists think.  That got me once, on an engine I bought used. I insisted the machinist hone to 0.0045-0.0055" clearance and despite his dire warnings of noisy operation, it works fine. 

The scuffing can also lead to heating, which worsens the scuffing, etc.