single stage metallic

[73-charger-383]

k guys....i may be in over my head here.  I shot the trunk just to get used to how my gun would spray and such and now i'm in panic mode.  - I know i didn't wait long enough between coats, so now i'm not sure if i have fish eye, or just solvent popping.  In a couple of areas the paint turned out wonderful, but where it got a little heavy, there is definitely a difference in the way that the metallics look.  -- I'm going to finish off the whole car in sealer primer before i go any further (right now it's a mix of sealer and high build)...and then use thinner coats....does anyone have any tips or tricks to spraying acrylic urethane metallics? I'm using a Devilbiss Starting Line gun, with the 1.8 tip. - Should i use the 1.3 instead?

With the trunk, i'm planning on just wetsanding everythinng smooth again and reshooting it....should be fine, right?

thanks,

[Silver R/T]

Don't use single stage metallic, even well-experienced painters don't have good luck with it. Use base/clear instead.
Which brand materials are you using? Which sealer/primer/paint?
Generally 1.8 is for high build primer, use 1.3 for clear, 1.4 for high solid clear/base coat (paint)
If you want you can wait until sealer is dry and wetsand it with some 600 grit, that will let paint lay down much smoother.

[Cooter]

Don't use single stage metallic, even well-experienced painters don't have good luck with it. Use base/clear instead.
Which brand materials are you using? Which sealer/primer/paint?
Generally 1.8 is for high build primer, use 1.3 for clear, 1.4 for high solid clear/base coat (paint)
If you want you can wait until sealer is dry and wetsand it with some 600 grit, that will let paint lay down much smoother.

EXACTLY. a buddy has a $1000.00 gun and tiger stripes with single stage. IMO, single stage paint should be right up there with front drum brakes.

[hemi-hampton]

I gotta agree with SilverRT. Dont use single stage. I got used to using it in the 1980's with Dupont Centari & when I worked at a Maaco painting 8 cars a day with it. It was funny watching painters paint it for the first time then. I know 2 tricks to help you spray it right but your better off going with base coat clear coat. Your gun is best used for thick primer only. Good luck. LEON.

[73-charger-383]

i'm using that restoration shop paint from TCP global.  - I'm going to give it a run with this current paint, and then if it sucks i'll take it back off - but i really love how it looks where it turned out.  - I've read about waiting max recommended times between coats to let it tack up a bit.

right now i've got it in Finish 1 2K build primer, sanded down with 320 grit.  On a few spots where i went through it, i've got it hit with etch primer, with a light coat of sealer over top.

thanks!

[hemi-hampton]

Can you post a picture of your trunk? LEON.

[HANDM]

I painted my Charger with single stage metallic......... and while there are no tiger stripes, there is more than a dozen chunks of shit in it, lots of orange peel and three runs. For a driver, it looks awesome but i really wish I could give it a wet sand and/ or cut & buff. 

[jaak]

I agree with everyone else... single stage metallics are difficult to paint and can't be wet sanded or buffed if you have a mistake. I have never shot SS metallic urethane, but I use to paint Acrylic enamel metallic, I would always back my gun way off, almost like 'dry spraying' on top of wet coat to get the metallics to even out... but I haven't done it in years. I don't know if Urethane uses the same techniques as AE.t

Now I've said this before, and it's just my opinion.. when I paint solid colors, to me the only way to paint them is SS Urethane. I just think a solid color looks better painted in SS (in my opinion). Looks better, and less materials....it's a win-win.

Jason

[73-charger-383]

I've got the trunk pretty much sanded down again...i'll try to find one showing the striping (i sprayed it way too quick...way too heavy)

[73-charger-383]

i took this all off because of the fish-eye/solvent popping.....it was pretty much my test panel to get used to the gun and how it was going to spray.

[Canadian1968]

If your going to try again .

Your first coat should be light (orientation coat) about 75% coverage but still even. Move the gun back from the surface adjust your hand speed accordingly. You don't want it to go on dry but you don't want a full wet pass either . This will tack up pretty quick . Now you can lay down a nice even coat , not to heavy as you have already found out! If your using a brand new gun it should have a perfect spray fan on it . Your going to have to find that happy medium between gun distance and hand speed that will give you the even finish. To close and and you move the metallics ( tiger stripes and other problems ! To far and it will look dry and flat . Single stage should be able to cover in 2 coats and your done.

That gun was my first gun I bought . They are great they just don't last long .... Well not when you are spraying every day hahah.

[73-charger-383]

thanks for the tips!  the more i read up on forums it seems like it will be tough, but definitely do-able.  When you paint do you use paint in the same direction with each coat, or do you switch it up?  I've found quite a few guys saying left/right for the first coat, up/down for the second diagonal for the third and then a light mist coat at the end....

[bill440rt]

Spraying single stage metallics is an acquired skill indeed.
If you spray base/clear, keep in mind that your metallic layout on the basecoat still has to be perfect BEFORE you apply the clear as well. Otherwise, you may wind up with the same result.