Neutral Safety Switch

[Bowers]

Hi Guys
Got a 1970 Charger and the engine won't crank at all anymore. Just switched the NSS last month and haven't driven it more than twice since. Today I replaced the alternator and Voltage Regulator as both were shot. Battery is now charging again, but the car still won't crank. Pulled the cap off the NSS and put the car in reverse and checked the terminals in the cap. Only one shows power running when in reverse. I also tried to start the car in neutral and it didn't work, as well as moving the shifter. Any ideas on what might be causing the NSS to go bad if that is the problem?

[MrSnicks]

Let's rule out the NSS. Get a hand remote starter and bypass the NSS.  The remote starter has 2 alligator clips, I for the positive battery cable and the other for the bottom post near the firewall on the starter relay.

I am using information from my personal experience on a 1971 Dodge Charger.  Your starter relays might be different from mine, but the premise is the same.

Patrick

[Bowers]

Not sure what you mean? I can start the car by jumping it at the starter relay with a screwdriver though.

[firefighter3931]

I can start the car by jumping it at the starter relay with a screwdriver though.

If that is the case, your starter relay switch is bad & the neutral safety switch is fine.


Ron

[Bowers]

I just replaced the starter relay switch last month as well just before the NSS.

[rt green]

check all connections. if you jump across the nns, will it start?

[Bowers]

Changed the alternator and and voltage regulator to brand new stock. Charged the battery from 20% to full. After the battery hit 70% the ignition would crank again. Thinking that it must be a low battery thing and the crank needs a full charge. Works now.

[John_Kunkel]

How did you jump the starter relay? Across the two threaded terminals? If so, you merely bypassed the relay....what you want to do to isolate the NSS is ground the "G" terminal on the relay. If it turns over with the key when the "G" terminal is grounded the relay is OK and the switch/wiring is the problem or the shifter is out of adjustment.

BTW, with the connector removed from the NSS you'll only get power to one of the outboard terminals, by connecting the two outboard terminals the backup lights should come on as soon as the key is turned to RUN. Grounding the center terminal on that connector should allow the starter to run in any gear.