steering wheel shakes when braking

[tucknroll]

hey, I have 10 inch drums on the front of the 69 and even with new drums and shoes, the steering wheel shakes when braking. oddly enough, when I got new tires on the front, a lot of it seemed to stop but its still there. any ideas?

[68 RT]

Wheel bearings, maybe other suspension parts. Does car pull to either side or just shake?

[Cooter]

First off, get rid of frt. Drum brakes.
Second, turn drums all around.

[tucknroll]

just shakes. I'm going to try turning the drums. after I get my taxes done, im going to put disc on the front.

[tucknroll]

im ordering a disc conversion tonight from classic industries and just wanted to check if I need a set with a master cylinder or can I use the one on my car?

[twodko]

I just ordered my disk brake conversion kit from Master Power Brakes. It's just the basic "factory power drum to power disk" kit but it comes with a MC and power booster. $1079

I bought a similarity several years ago for a Chevelle and liked it so much I'm bought from these guys again.  

Buy a kit that includes all this stuff that way you'll know it's all intended to work together. You won't be
guessing/hoping existing parts you already have will be compatible.

[green69rt]

First off, get rid of frt. Drum brakes.
Second, turn drums all around.

Don't have an opinion about disc/drum but shaking of the steering wheel when braking is classic symptom of warped disc or out of round drum.  If you turn the drums then go ahead and replace the pads.  Something caused the drums to go out of round and it may have been old pads that require more braking force (this means heat.)

Late thought... new drums may be required depending on how much out of round they are,  Maybe just get new ones (not used!!) to start with, that may be less of a headache.

[tucknroll]

I am installing the disc conversion and my dad who helps me thinks I should try using the existing master cylinder but I want to use the new one. do you guys think the original one will be ok? I just hate to tell him no because I use his shop and mostly his tools. and out of respect.

[tucknroll]

and one last question, the only part I don't know what is, is a black piece that has a knob to tighten and it reads in and out. it also has 2 holes through it. anyone know what part im talking about and what is it?

[Sublime/Sixpack]

Proportioning valve.

[tucknroll]

thanks, where does it mount?

[Sublime/Sixpack]

Inside of the left front frame rail seems to work well. And it's easy access when you want to adjust it.
I located it so it's just behind the metal shield that attaches to the frame rail (which isn't in place in this photo) so it has some protection from road debris, etc.

[b5blue]

You need to check that the strut rods and bushings are in real good condition first. The rods can be slightly bowed or bent and the bushings can be wallowed out, dry rotted, cracked or smashed out of shape. Check straightness with something known to be nice a straight like a 2 foot level or framing square (Whatever.) side to side and top and bottom and jack up the car and force the rod and lower control arm back and forth/up and down firmly. Look for any play, slop or looseness. 

[tucknroll]

well now theres another problem. the caliper bracket for the passanger side wont line up. its the exact same as the driver side but it wont fit. should they be different?

[tucknroll]

finished the conversion sunday and it's the best thing ive done to the car so far! great stopping with no shaking of any kind. I love it.

[Mopar Nut]

finished the conversion sunday and it's the best thing ive done to the car so far! great stopping with no shaking of any kind. I love it.

Now do the rear disc conversion, BIG difference.