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Charger Build Questions/Updates

Started by ajay716, February 19, 2014, 08:24:32 PM

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Scaregrabber

Lots of good advice has been given to you. Too many different opinions and rehashing the same answers clouds everything on forums. A lot of people agree with what has been suggested and feel no need to add to it. Don't take this personally, everyone is trying to help.

Sheldon

Kern Dog

If you feel that you have not received enough good advice, feel free to ask for your money back.
Maybe you are young and used to getting instant feedback due to living in an "instant gratification" society. I see that you are eager to dig in but sometimes the wheels move slower than you want. By this I mean that the answers you seek may take time to arrive.
You might want to ask these questions on a few more Mopar sites. A guy once told me...If you cast a large enough net, eventually you will find what you want.

ajay716

and im not here to get things sugar coated, i'm here for answers. i never disregarded anyones advice, but i do feel like my questions werent answered fully at first. all you had to say was that i should be looking into a bigger rear end for when i do the stroker and that i needed different gears...i thought i had the 8 3/4 and i took the advice for the gears, so what did i "not want to hear" about your advice? i just thought there would be a better time for the rear end(when i found out i didnt have it). like i said i never disregarded or shot down anyones advice, just was looking for specific answers; so i really dont get where you last 3 are trying to go with your posts, maybe you need to re-read the thread. :scratchchin:
so the list is:
auburn suregrip(in a 8 3/4 rear if i can find)
3.73's
cam-does anyone have a recommendation based on my combo? i know i will probably need a new one with the stroker and heads but thats not a big deal, i want to take advantage of my current mods and the low compression with a new one, if its too much ill pay to get it put in then put the next one in, thanks


1973 Charger SE Brougham Numbers Matching
400 C.i.
46k

XH29N0G

ajay716, there is a fair amount posted on cams already on the forum, but I would wait to see if you get a specific recommendation (and how to degree it) for your compression and combo.  For searching with a little more control, press the magnifying glass icon by the search box, this will let you sort differently.  Another option is to call some cam companies (like Lunati , comp cams, hughes) to get their recommendations and then to post them back to the board for a response.  
Who in their right mind would say

"The science should not stand in the way of this."? 

Science is just observation and hypothesis.  Policy stands in the way.........

Or maybe it protects us. 

I suppose it depends on the specific case.....

firefighter3931

Quote from: ajay716 on February 24, 2014, 01:11:45 AM
cam-does anyone have a recommendation based on my combo? i know i will probably need a new one with the stroker and heads but thats not a big deal, i want to take advantage of my current mods and the low compression with a new one, if its too much ill pay to get it put in then put the next one in, thanks


Here's the cam I would run in that low compression 400 ;

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/cro-32242/overview/

Valve springs ;

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/cca-911-16/overview/

Timing chain set ;

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/cca-2104/overview/make/chrysler

Lifters ;

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95605.0.html


I would suggest an installed intake centerline of 106* to help build cylinder pressure and low end torque/throttle response  :yesnod:



Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

BSB67

Quote from: firefighter3931 on February 24, 2014, 10:04:50 AM

Here's the cam I would run in that low compression 400 ;

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/cro-32242/overview/

Valve springs ;

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/cca-911-16/overview/

Timing chain set ;

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/cca-2104/overview/make/chrysler

Lifters ;

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95605.0.html

I would suggest an installed intake centerline of 106* to help build cylinder pressure and low end torque/throttle response  :yesnod:

Ron

What he said.

And,

At some point you need to do some of your own knowledge building and work.  You need to get a factory service manual and a couple of books on hot rodding Mopars.  To me it is a little backwards to be talking cam specifics when you cannot even identify what style of axle housing is in the car.

500" NA, Eddy head, pump gas, exhaust manifold with 2 1/2 exhaust with tailpipes
4150 lbs with driver, 3.23 gear, stock converter
11.68 @ 120.2 mph

ajay716

i do have a factory service manual and i do work on the car myself,  i havent rebuilt an engine yet, but can do alot of other things. i tried to identify the rear but i wasnt sure, thats why i came on here. everything on that list i put in/going to put in myself except the exhaust.. anyway, Ron, thank you so much i can always count on you to give me what im looking for to the T :pity:. is the cam you suggested based on the parts i have gotten? just want to be clear. Id just like to get one thats best for everything i have now but that wont be too aggressive.(am i asking too much? lol) also is that it as far as parts that i should/need to install with the cam and do the specs match up? i already ordered that timing set per your advice before. sorry for the questions i just know this is a very important thing as far as getting some power out of my mods and ive never worked with cam specs before, thanks again, alex
1973 Charger SE Brougham Numbers Matching
400 C.i.
46k

ajay716

sorry one more thing,...Ron, are there cams that give good power all the way around that has a long rpm range or do i have to choose where id rather have the power? im looking for the best cam that will be best for the street/ 1/8 mile times with an auto w/ stock heads/compression, going to 3.55 or 3.73. sorry for being so naive to this, and if the cam you listed is best, or you have any other suggestions based on what this says, please let me know, thanks again, alex.
1973 Charger SE Brougham Numbers Matching
400 C.i.
46k

moparsr2fast

  Alex,

  The cam Ron linked makes power thru mid to upper range very well. The 106 centerline install will help with the torque, which your car is in great need of. I owned a '74 once. These are not the best option for tearing up the streets. Buy the cam, learn how to centerline it with a degree wheel and an indicator ( google degreeing a cam),  run it between 2200 and 2800 rpm for 20 minutes straight once the engine is reassembled. Change oil, then start learning how to tune a carburetor  before running it out on a Friday night with your buds. You will want one of those handles that bolt to the front of the cam for extraction and installation. If you find the cam hung up while removing, gently rotate, and continue.  Follow torque specs on EVERYTHING.  ( you can google that too) . Take your time. Make sure all gasket surfaces are clean and free of gasket material. The water pump does not need to come off the housing, remove as one assembly. The radiator will need to come out completely. Take pictures of belt routing, bracket placement ect. Take your time. It isn't hard, but you will probably be an easy 4 to 6 hours into it.
Bob

  70 Charger 500
     2001 Ram 2500 Sport
        2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee
  2006 Dodge Charger Daytona

moparsr2fast

  There is much here we take for granted, but a few more pointers.... when you get the timing cover off, rotate the engine until your timing marks line up. It is also a little trick to mark the distributor base with a marker, and an adjoining mark on the block so you will be close on the timing. You will also need an advance timing light... available at most partipating parts stores everywhere. ... Don't buy the 50/50 premix antifreeze. They are sticking to you by charging more for less product.  There are 2 bolts on the bottom of the timing cover that go thru the oil pan. Don't forget them. Don't throw all your bolts into the same area. You will have a hard time remembering what each bolt was for. Keep them with their components.. water pump bolts with water pump etc...
Bob

  70 Charger 500
     2001 Ram 2500 Sport
        2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee
  2006 Dodge Charger Daytona

firefighter3931

Quote from: ajay716 on March 03, 2014, 09:36:08 AM
is the cam you suggested based on the parts i have gotten? just want to be clear. Id just like to get one thats best for everything i have now but that wont be too aggressive.(am i asking too much? lol) also is that it as far as parts that i should/need to install with the cam and do the specs match up? i already ordered that timing set per your advice before. sorry for the questions i just know this is a very important thing as far as getting some power out of my mods and ive never worked with cam specs before, thanks again, alex

Hi Alex,

Yep the Crower HDP271 is a good match for the parts you will have on hand and the engine's current state (low compression and low milage)  :yesnod: It is not an overly agressive cam yet still makes excellent power and has a nice lope at idle. No one will mistake it for the stock cam  ;)

Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

firefighter3931

Quote from: ajay716 on March 03, 2014, 09:48:54 AM
sorry one more thing,...Ron, are there cams that give good power all the way around that has a long rpm range or do i have to choose where id rather have the power? im looking for the best cam that will be best for the street/ 1/8 mile times with an auto w/ stock heads/compression, going to 3.55 or 3.73. sorry for being so naive to this, and if the cam you listed is best, or you have any other suggestions based on what this says, please let me know, thanks again, alex.

The wider LSA means it will have a broad powerband so it's a good match for your needs. The converter should flash a little higher with the increased power so it'll launch pretty good once it's properly tuned and you get some gear out back.  :icon_smile_big:

You'll be doing some of this  :drive:


Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs