SSBC front disc conversion stopping solutions

[69white hat]

Hi everyone. I'm really sorry to start another thread about SSBC front disc conversion, but I've read almost every thread about them and came to some conclusions. My car is the same as almost everyone elses out there with these brakes. They don't seem to work. Looks like all the posts have got it narrowed down to 2 main problems. It's either the proportioning valve not being adjusted properly, or the pads. I have the ssbc proportioning valve mounted in the rear brake line under the drivers side. I have adjusted it several times all the way in and all the way out. It doesn't seem to make a difference. The rear brakes want to lock up all the time, and barely anything to the fronts. So, I have decided to buy the chevy distibution block that is a 3 in one part, distibution, proportional and metering valve all in one and install it under the hood. I'm going to throw in new pads as well just because it makes sense that ssbc sould sell you as part of the kit the cheapest pads they could. I put 2500 miles on my car last year, and the stopping didn't get any better so I assume they are properly worn in. BTW, I bought the car with the conversion on already last spring. Does anyone see a problem with this plan? What would you do? What HAVE you done that worked?  Something else? I appreciate everyones comments, whether they like what I'm doing or not. I need the advice. One thing I noticed in most of the posts about these brakes is that they just stopped. Someone would say they're gonna try something and then no more posts. I guess that means it worked. If you solved this problem, please, let me know. Thanks all.

[JB400]

What master cylinder are you running?

[JB400]

Just out of curiosity, have you tried switching the front and back lines on the distribution block?

this is what you have, isn't it?
http://ssbrakes.com/i-10094012-distribution-block-adjustable-black.html

[69white hat]

I don't know what master cylinder, I would imagine the one the kit comes with. I have not tried to switch the lines. You're thinking they're backwards??

One more question I have is: Has anyone ever had a problem to get a rim on the rotor after putting on this conversion kit bicause the caliper sticks out just a little past the rotor face where the rim sits?

That isn't the prop vavle i have, bit this is it here at this link.

http://ssbrakes.com/i-10094006-proportioning-valve-adjustable-black.html

[JB400]

This is a pic of the distribution block/ proportioning valve on a factory front disc, rear drum car.

The top lines feed the front, bottom feeds the rear. At the master cylinder, the large chamber feeds the front disc, the small chamber feeds the drum.

Since the rear's are locking up first, either the lines are crossed, proportioning valve is bad, or you're still running the drum/ drum proportioning valve and it's just not supplying enough fluid to the front calipers.  You could also still have the drum/ drum mc which would have equal size front/ rear chambers.  Another thing that could possibly be wrong is there is dirt somewhere in front system.

[69white hat]

I have the proper m/c with the large rear bowl and small front one. I plan to remove my ssbc prop valve which i believe to be falulty and use the chevy 3 in one valve. Not factory original I know, but i don't much care under the hood. I want them to work. As for dirt, I will certainly check for dirt when I put in the new dist block and bleed lines. I plan to do a pressure check on the front lines as well if my guy has the tool.

[Lord Warlock]

I'm not an expert brake person, but the layout of the proportioning valves in the pic above are not correct for a 69 disc brake car.  While the rear brake line does go to the hole yours is attached to,  there is supposed to be a proportioning valve (the small one) about a foot behind the large distribution block, and its supposed to provide a short delay to the rear brakes after the brakes are applied.  My master cylinder also has the Line connections positioned on the opposite side of the master cylinder.  I believe the photo applies to systems in 1970 that used a different layout than 68 and part of 69.

My car is an early 69 with power front discs and power rear drums, I'll have to dig through old posts to find the thread that has a picture of the layout on mine. 

[Lord Warlock]

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=106000.0;attach=208339;image

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

Is it a manual disc conversion or a power assisted conversion?

I originally used the manual set up (only difference is the lack of a power booster) and I always felt it took a lot of pedal pressure to get the car to stop.  The brakes, however, worked flawlessly.  The kit came supplied with an A body M/C  Others have reported that switching to a new style plastic body M/C made the pedal effort easier.  I believe this had a smaller bore size.  15/16" as opposed to 1 1/8" for the A body style
Dr. Diff sells them with the appropriate adapter...

http://www.doctordiff.com/aluminum-master-cylinder-kit.html

Never had an issue with the prop valve either.  The one thing I did do to make them "feel" better was add the correct Bendix power booster & M/C.

Have the set up on there since 2005 as well 

[69white hat]

It's a power disc conversion. I figured that the booster and the m/c work well because the car stops really fast. In fact I have to be careful on the pedal or I get thrown forward in my seat and if i really stomp on em my rears lock up. The problem is that the back brakes are doing 90% of the work. I need more fluid to the fronts. I'll do a pressure test on the front lines when I see the car next. I'm still thinking prop vavle as #1 culprit.

[fy469rtse]

I'd go with the factory set ups , as in above posted photos, any one reading or looking at this that main factory block, I'm looking for the main bright finished looking plug , the one in photo on the bottom of the larger proportioning valve
Mine fractured and seeps
Sorry 69 white hat, get the blocks as above , and just put a wilwood proportioning valve on rears line only, I really don't like the look of that ssbc valve,
The other way to change rear brake behaviour is to increase or reduce bore size of wheel cylinders, but something wrong there, you should be able to lock up fronts