Hole in my block.

[polywideblock]

is there a preferred brand of rtv e.g. pematex copper

[A383Wing]

is there a preferred brand of rtv e.g. pematex copper

I have had the best luck with brand called "Right Stuff"....you must make sure surfaces are extremely clean & dry before applying the sealant.

Bryan

[Belgium R/T -68]

You must be good at taking the engine out and dropping it back in by now, lets hope all is good.

Indeed, third time now on 300 miles. 

Per

[Belgium R/T -68]

Are you sealing the pan 100%? Give details of how you are installing it. Gaskets above and below the intake ports on the pan? LOTS of sealant on the oil dams and corners where it meets the head/block front and back of engine? Thread sealant on intake bolts? 
  I'd grind/clean the suspect spot in the casting some and epoxy smooth with J-B Weld. Scuff up it some then touch up the paint. (That way it would leave "witness marks" if it was leaking still.)

After second rebuild I had a collapsed lifter so I lifted the intake and installed new lifters. I used gaskets on both sides of the valleypan and sealed all around with a whiteish product from Edelbroeck. This time I'm using black RTV all around and threadsealer for all bolts.

Per

[b5blue]

There ya go, good!  If you used Edelbrock "Gasgacinch" gasket sealer and belt dressing it would not work for the oil dams. (The front and back of the valley.) I do use it to position and hold intake gaskets to the intake and heads.

[Belgium R/T -68]

There ya go, good!  If you used Edelbrock "Gasgacinch" gasket sealer and belt dressing it would not work for the oil dams. (The front and back of the valley.) I do use it to position and hold intake gaskets to the intake and heads.

That's what I used, glues gaskets great but doesn't seem to seal metal to metal.

Per

[A383Wing]

I see no reason to use gaskets on both sides of intake valley pan. Those are probably causing your pan to be raised up enough to not seal at the corners

[ACUDANUT]

I see no reason to use gaskets on both sides of intake valley pan. Those are probably causing your pan to be raised up enough to not seal at the corners

x2

[b5blue]

There ya go, good!  If you used Edelbrock "Gasgacinch" gasket sealer and belt dressing it would not work for the oil dams. (The front and back of the valley.) I do use it to position and hold intake gaskets to the intake and heads.

That's what I used, glues gaskets great but doesn't seem to seal metal to metal.

Per

That was your leak Per! 

[b5blue]

I see no reason to use gaskets on both sides of intake valley pan. Those are probably causing your pan to be raised up enough to not seal at the corners

Intake gaskets come in several thicknesses, the reason is to account for variance from build to build. Heads cut or surfaced, deck milled and head gasket thickness all change the tolerance between the intake and head. Larry Shepard's book covers how to set the Intake and Heads for mock up so feeler gauges can be used to dial in intake gasket thickness. I always use 4 gaskets. 
  I've seen much debate about it.....whatever works for you is good by me!  Gasgacinch is about like contact cement/glue, much too thin. 

[ACUDANUT]

Permatex is a great brand here in the USA.

[A383Wing]

There ya go, good!  If you used Edelbrock "Gasgacinch" gasket sealer and belt dressing it would not work for the oil dams. (The front and back of the valley.) I do use it to position and hold intake gaskets to the intake and heads.

That's what I used, glues gaskets great but doesn't seem to seal metal to metal.

Per

that's why you use the silicone style sealant between the valley pan & block and at corners of the block rail ends

[Belgium R/T -68]

Installed engine again after installing new valleypan with lots of sealer, after first testdrive still no leaks. 

Per

[ACUDANUT]

 

[b5blue]

Happy new year Per! 

[Belgium R/T -68]

Happy new year Per! 

Same to you my friend 

Per

[Charger-Bodie]

Happy new year Per! 

Same to you my friend 

Per

I hope things continue to go positive for you Per.