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Lower Control Arm Removal...

Started by Lighthorseman, March 31, 2014, 05:56:58 PM

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Lighthorseman

Again with the newbie questions -

Sorry to all you experts, but I'm at a loss once again.  I'm trying to remove the lower control arms of my '70 Satellite...to no avail.  I have taken out cotter pins, undone the shaft bolts, and tried to use one of those tie-rod end bars to get it off, but no matter how hard I try, I'm having NO luck.  Am I missing some sort of secret trick?

It's frustrating, because in theory, it really should be quite simple.

If I AM missing something, is there some sort of link that might help me out?  All I really want to do is clean them up and replace the dust boots, which I have now totally destroyed trying to get these things off.

Thanks!
- Steve -

bull

You've released the tension from the torsion bars, right?

Sublime/Sixpack

Quote from: Lighthorseman on March 31, 2014, 05:56:58 PM
Again with the newbie questions -

Sorry to all you experts, but I'm at a loss once again.  I'm trying to remove the lower control arms of my '70 Satellite...to no avail.  I have taken out cotter pins, undone the shaft bolts, and tried to use one of those tie-rod end bars to get it off, but no matter how hard I try, I'm having NO luck.  Am I missing some sort of secret trick?

It's frustrating, because in theory, it really should be quite simple.

If I AM missing something, is there some sort of link that might help me out?  All I really want to do is clean them up and replace the dust boots, which I have now totally destroyed trying to get these things off.

Thanks!
- Steve -


Removing the LCA's isn't a highly technical task but I don't know that I'd call it simple. Actually it's quite involved. You'd be wise to purchase a factory Service/Repair type manual for your car.
Based on your post it's difficult to know just how far into the job you are. For example: Not sure what you mean by shaft bolts?

Here's a photo of the LCA's from my '68 Coronet. Is this the part you want to remove? Maybe the photo will help you to visualize what you need to do.
1970 Sublime R/T, 440 Six Pack, Four speed, Super Track Pak

myk

Quote from: bull on March 31, 2014, 06:37:30 PM
You've released the tension from the torsion bars, right?

THIS...

Lighthorseman

Ha!  I guess I should have clarified a bit. 

I have essentially taken the entire front end apart.  I'm swapping my 383 auto combo for a 440 4-speed setup, and as such, have removed the engine, transmission, K-frame, torsion bars, steering column and box, and taken almost all of the front steering and suspension components apart.  All I'm left with is the lower control arms attached to the disc brake rotor assembly. 

I want to remove the LCA assembly from the lower ball joints to clean them up and replace the dust boots.

One thing I have noticed is that my LCAs do not have the sway bar "ear" on them.  I do, in the near future, want to have a nice beefy front sway bar on the car.  Do I need to get a whole new set of LCAs with them already attached, or can I get them separately and have them welded on?

Again, thanks for any help!
- Steve -

Sublime/Sixpack

Remove the two nuts and bolts that hold the LCA to the spindle (knuckle) and separate the two parts. Then remove the nut from the lower ball joint and press or drive it from the LCA.

If you go with a front sway bar from "Firm Feel" you can buy the brackets for mounting the bar to the LCA's from them. Not sure about the other brands of sway bars.

1970 Sublime R/T, 440 Six Pack, Four speed, Super Track Pak

Lighthorseman

Here's where I am progress-wise...


Sublime/Sixpack

I can see where you tried to use the pickle fork.   Ideally you should use the correct style of puller, but there are other ways.
I've turned the nut from the ball joint stud upside down and threaded it back onto the ball joint stud so it's even with the top of the stud, then supported the LCA, then whacked the nut/stud with a fairly good size brass mallet and the ball joint popped loose, from there the nut can be removed and the ball joint will fall out.

Make sense?
1970 Sublime R/T, 440 Six Pack, Four speed, Super Track Pak

flyinlow

Since the seal is already damaged, drive a pickle fork between the LCA and the ball joint. If the joint does not pop, leave the pickle fork in place keeping a load on it and give the side of the LCA loop that the tapered stud goes thru a rap with a ballpean hammer. If that does not do it, put the nut back on like Sublime/Sixpack said and give it a shot.    :Twocents:

projectanimal

Fun project.... I just spent the last 4 days removing both LCAs from our car as we prepare to add disk  brakes. I found that our driver side was bent badly, so we needed to take it all apart.   It made it easier to break the balljoint by removing the spindle from the lower ball joint.  It's the 2 bolts on either side of the ball joint.  Hope this helps..   :2thumbs:
northwest CT

green69rt

Just a thought....find a shop you like and have them separate the LCA.  You may find a friend and a source for future work.  Also save yourself some pain!!!

Lighthorseman

Quote from: green69rt on April 13, 2014, 09:58:54 PM
Just a thought....find a shop you like and have them separate the LCA.  You may find a friend and a source for future work.  Also save yourself some pain!!!

Well, that's exactly what I did in the end By the time I was finished, I had mangled the balljoints - and the thing still hadn't let go.  I tried the ballpeen hammer trick, as well as wrecking one of the nuts.   :brickwall:

My friendly speed shop guy (he's building my bored-out 440) said he'd stick them on his press, and order me new balljoints to boot.  So much easier this way.