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'73 Mopar charcoal canisters- are they really needed?

Started by 69bronzeT5, May 25, 2010, 06:14:47 PM

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69bronzeT5

I want to get rid of the charcoal canister system on my Duster. Are they really needed? What all needs to be removed to get rid of the whole system?
Feature Editor for Mopar Connection Magazine
http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/



1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1970 Challenger R/T: FC7 Plum Crazy 440 Automatic
1970 GTO: Black 400 Ram Air III 4-Speed
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
1972 Charger: FE5 Red 360 Automatic
1973 Charger Rallye: FY1 Top Banana 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Road Runner: FE5 Red 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Duster: FC7 Plum Crazy 318 Automatic

FLG

Heres what i needed to do on the charger bronzie,

Remove the canister and cap the line. Now since its capped you start building up too much pressure in the tank, so i took the fuel tank cap off, removed the inner "breather" part with the spring on it which took ALOT of pressure to open. I simply cut the spring so it opens relatively easily, but does not stay open (dont want gas venting in the garage). And it now works fine...it vents form the cap and does not build up excess pressure in the tank. Also you will need to remove/cap the vac lines that go to it.

flyinlow

The canister stores gasoline vapors from the carb and fuel tank when not running. After the engine is started a vacuum signal that is hooked to ported vacuum opens the purge valve to empty the vapor thru an other vacuum line to the base of the carb where they go into the intake and are burned.

Has no effect on performance when working properly,except for the small weight penalty. Reduces emissions and improves gas milage very slightly.

If removed, the vent from the carb and fuel tank will have to go somewhere. The end of the vent line sould be higher then the tank and somewhere where the vapor does not enter the cabin. Consider putting a filter on the end of the vent line. :Twocents:

Nacho-RT74

I would like to find a complete charcoal system to my car. Cars down here weren't equipped with that.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

69bronzeT5

Well, my next question is......do charcoal canister systems work with new carbs?
Feature Editor for Mopar Connection Magazine
http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/



1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1970 Challenger R/T: FC7 Plum Crazy 440 Automatic
1970 GTO: Black 400 Ram Air III 4-Speed
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
1972 Charger: FE5 Red 360 Automatic
1973 Charger Rallye: FY1 Top Banana 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Road Runner: FE5 Red 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Duster: FC7 Plum Crazy 318 Automatic

flyinlow

[Well, my next question is......do charcoal canister systems work with new carbs?



Yes they would work with an aftermarket carb. Some carbs (thermoquad for example) had an extra vacuum nipple for purging the canister. Some carbs ( Holleys on 1972 Fury for an example) tee'd the purge line into the pcv valve line and did not have a separate vacuum nipple.  Aftermarket carbs will not have bowl vent fittings to vent to the canister. You would just be storing the vapors from the fuel tank. If you plug the vacuum nipples on your EOM carb and remove the canister it should run fine.  The canister could only hold so much. If you set your car out in the sun on a hot day it would probably be fully charged. After you drive it awhile all the vapor would be sucked into the engine and burned. After that it just draws in air thru the canister which has a simple air filter on the bottom of it. Dont know how long the charcoal in them lasts.




I would like to find a complete charcoal system to my car. Cars down here weren't equipped with that.




Nacho, you would need a fuel tank with the four vents , and the vent box that is mounted to the body just forward of the tank in the rear axle bay,vent lines ,canister and the correct fuel tank cap.

The hard part to get would be the vent box. If mine ever rusts out I will remove the system.

Nacho-RT74

74 tanks are quite diff, just one tee, and they still got the canister.

I have diagrams of the systems though ( and the FSM too ). Haven't checked yet since is not A PRIORITY, but will be nice to get the system once my car travels to Europe.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

ODZKing

I wanted to inquire what clamps the hoses use, then got interested and started reading up on what the canister actually does and found some interesting reading.
First ... what are the correct clamps?
Then second, I see 2 listed one with a cap and one with out ... what is the difference there?
Then ... I noticed, mine is completely different than those I have pictures of and even the correct one I just purchased. I have a California emissions car, however there is no differentiation in the parts book for with and without Calif emissions. I'd never put any thought into it and the only reasone I even changed it is because one of the spickets is cracked on mine. The one I purchased is 3577595 (first pic) and the one that was on my car also pictured. I can't imagine the PO replacing it with a generic ... unless it was a California mandate thing.  Anyone see one like this? It has 3 spickets and a plugged hole with removable plug and 3 threaded studs.
Any info appreciated, now I am curious!!

greymag

If you run a charcoal canister, put a gas filter between the canister & the carb. That way if the canister lets go, it won't throw charcoal into the carb.