installing quarter skins

[Ryan.C]

I was reading an article in the AUG edition of Chrysler Power Magazine that was covering quarter panel skin replacement. The artice demonstrated a method of panel installation that required you to remove the majority of the old panel leaving in place the top seam (2nd GEN charger), door jam, tail light joint and marker light. Then you are to place the new skin over the old quarter and hold the skin on with screws or cleco pins. the next step is what gets me. you are to cut through both panels with a thin cut-off wheel, a section of 3-4 inches then peel  back the new skin exposing the area. line up the panels with a pocket screw driver and then tac weld the new skin onto the panel.
since my '69 is going to need the left quarter skin replaced I have been practicing this method with some scrap metal. the problem im having is two fold: ONE the welded area seems to raise slightly after all the tac welds are in. TWO the back of the panel looks like garbage because the part of the old panel I cut through is still being held in a few areas from the tac welds. I assumed this part would have fallen off after I cut the entire area out.
sorry for the novel I am in the learning phase of car restoration. PLEASE ADVISE.

[cdr]

this is how i did my splce.   http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,90903.msg1165301.html#msg1165301

[bill440rt]

I remember reading a similar article but years ago.
Butt welding quarter skins is an artform. If you slice thru both panels like that the seam inside should be a butt weld. That's the problem with skins, you have to get in there to finish off the inside seam if you want it to be invisible.
I flanged the upper seam on my skins, made for a stronger weld seam with less warpage. I preferred to flange them.
On the inside, I brushed some panel bond adhesive instead of seam sealer, this also made for a stronger bond. The adhesive flowed out real nice as it cured, and once the heavy undercoat was applied you can barely see the seam now.

[Ryan.C]

thanks bill I think ill go the flange route

[bill440rt]

 

Before I forget, I also kept the factory upper belt line, rear flange, and door jamb flange. I was all done inside of these lines. Think of it as kind of a big patch panel.
I left the marker opening on the quarter skin alone, just compared measurements to the other side to make sure they were the same. They were.