Water neck

[Dino]

I looked but cannot find the post about the water necks.  It was mentioned that one (or more) of the big box parts stores carry a good cast water neck.  The top rim on mine is near gone.  The whole thing is going to crack if I try to slide the hose back on so I need a new one.

Will this do?
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MRY0/84830/01397.oap?year=1969&make=Dodge&model=Charger&vi=1079007&ck=Search_C0420_1079007_3329&pt=C0420&ppt=C0331
 

[fy469rtse]

That looks ok dino , or have a look at Mancini or summit , I used one that has a o ring seal, much better, changed the cap to a late style to let excess fluid to a overflow bottle so it can be sucked back to radiator

[myk]

I looked but cannot find the post about the water necks.  It was mentioned that one (or more) of the big box parts stores carry a good cast water neck.  The top rim on mine is near gone.  The whole thing is going to crack if I try to slide the hose back on so I need a new one.

Will this do?
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MRY0/84830/01397.oap?year=1969&make=Dodge&model=Charger&vi=1079007&ck=Search_C0420_1079007_3329&pt=C0420&ppt=C0331
 

That looks like the one that Summit sells.  I have a thread somewhere here about waternecks also; my flimsy chrome MP water neck is on its way out-AGAIN and I also need a replacement.  Summit sells thiers for $10, looks like O'reilly's has the better deal, unless it's a different piece, of course...

[lukedukem]

Dino, that's the exact one I put on my 383. I used some permatex copper sealer too and no leaks with good figment. I had a chrome one before. I took car on two, one hour trips last weekend at 60-70mph and the car got up to about 210-215 and no leaks at all. I've only had it on there for about 500 miles or so but I like it.

Luke

[bill440rt]

Or, you could try one of these. The OEM design leaves little surface area on the sealing flanges. This increases the sealing area using an adapter, and seals with O-rings.

http://terrysautolab.com/details.html

[myk]

Or, you could try one of these. The OEM design leaves little surface area on the sealing flanges. This increases the sealing area using an adapter, and seals with O-rings.

http://terrysautolab.com/details.html

Now that's a cool piece...

[BrianShaughnessy]

I bought a stainless housing about 10 years ago now... it's never leaked a drop.   No bs O ring.   Just a straight up stock gasket is all you need as long as the housing doesn't warp.    I've seen that happen on more than just mopars.

I think it only cost like $35 back then tho...   Now it's $79. 
http://www.weldtechstainless.com/wtstainless_003.htm

[Dino]

Ooo I like that adapter and the ss one, very nice stuff!  Little pricey yes and not sure if I need it but it's nice to have the option at least. 

I was thinking of how I want the engine bay to look but I can't make it look pretty anytime soon.  I may get one of those or I may get the O'Reilly one until I decide what to do with the whole look thing.  That ss distributor hold down bracket is pretty nice as well but it would look way out of place under my hood right now.   

Once I get going with engine dress up stuff you know what will happen right?  I end up with boxes of new parts and an engine sitting in my driveway.   

Thanks for the advice peeps.   

[bill440rt]

Just an FYI, but I have an aluminum thermostat housing and dist hold down from 440 Source in my '69. So far, so good. 
Like Brian said, the trick is just to have good, clean, flat mating surfaces.
Other cars just have stock housings, no leaks in those either.

[myk]

I got the O'reilly's water neck for $5; let's see how that thing does...

[BrianShaughnessy]

I got the O'reilly's water neck for $5; let's see how that thing does...

If it's cast iron it'll probably be fine.      Anything else take your chances.      

[myk]

Any luck Dino?

[Dino]

I didn't get any yet, fall semester starts today so I had some running around to do.  I'll probably get the O'Reilly one for now, if it's cast iron.  I have plenty work to do to keep me busy for a while so I have to focus on making everything work as I want it before I start making it look Purdy.   

[myk]

I gave up on purdy a long time ago, lol.  Well I'm handling the O'reilly's piece right now and for $5 well; it can't be any worse than the MP chrome piece...

[Dino]

I gave up on purdy a long time ago, lol.  Well I'm handling the O'reilly's piece right now and for $5 well; it can't be any worse than the MP chrome piece...

Without chrome it has to be better.   

So is it cast iron?

[myk]

I gave up on purdy a long time ago, lol.  Well I'm handling the O'reilly's piece right now and for $5 well; it can't be any worse than the MP chrome piece...

Without chrome it has to be better.  

So is it cast iron?

I don't mean to sound like a complete dolt, but how do I tell if it's cast iron?  It's certainly not....heavy...

[Dino]

I gave up on purdy a long time ago, lol.  Well I'm handling the O'reilly's piece right now and for $5 well; it can't be any worse than the MP chrome piece...

Without chrome it has to be better.  

So is it cast iron?

I don't mean to sound like a complete dolt, but how do I tell if it's cast iron?  It's certainly not....heavy...

Hold a strong magnet against it and see if it sticks.  It shouldn't be as attracted to the magnet as sheet metal but you'll be able to tell. 

Alternatively put a tiny scratch on it, make it wet and see if it rusts.  (least attractive option)

[myk]

You're brilliant Dino.  I took a kitchen magnet to it and it's a no-stick.  I guess that means its no good?   

[Dino]

You're brilliant Dino.  I took a kitchen magnet to it and it's a no-stick.  I guess that means its no good?   

Not necessarily, a fridge magnet is likely not strong enough to hold onto cast iron.  Got a cast iron skillet in the house? 

I think you'll have to get a stronger magnet.  If you don't have any you can try the tip of a screwdriver, although they lose their magnetism as well, or buy one of those little earth magnets when you're out.

If it's an alloy then it 'may' not seat properly against the iron pump housing so to be safe I'd put a thin bead of permatex ultra copper between the two and be sure to retighten the bolts after the first few trips or warm ups.  For $5 you don't have much to lose.   

I'd do this regardless of the material actually, it's good security.