Couple small problems - Overkill solution - opinions?

[defiance]

I've been dealing with a few small problems on my charger, and I'm kinda tired of dealing with them, to be honest.  So, I've decided, I'm going to nuke the fleas

Basically, here's the trouble I'm dealing with:

1) For a few months, I've been planning on having the A/C fixed.  It seems to have all the pieces, but it's all original stuff, and hasn't had any coolant in it for probably 10 years - so I'm pretty sure it would be a pretty hefty job to have it updated to 134. 

2) So far, since getting the car running, it tends to run pretty hot.  In  30-40 minutes idling, it will get up to the 210-220 range, and only stops rising when I kill it.  I've got a wideband O2 sensor on it, and it's burning fuel at around 12.5/1 a/f ratio, so it's just slightly rich - which would seem like it would be fine, as far as engine temp goes.  And timing seems to be in line as well, at around 8* idle advance. 

3) The stock alternator bracket has been removed, and somebody welded together some ... *thing* to hold it on... it's pretty nasty iron crap, ugly as heck, and harder to adjust.

4) Since I needed to tighten the alternator belt last week, I decided I'd replace all the belts.  Can't hurt, right?  Wrong.  In the process, the accursed power steering pump adjustment bolt *snapped off* level with the block.  Argh.  I have tried easy-outing this - which of course was lots of fun, since I had to take all the accessories and water pump off just to get to it - but the EASY OUT SNAPPED!  So, now I've got a nice sheared bolt with a super-hard center!  Fun!  ANY SUGGESTIONS HERE WELCOME!!!!



Anyway, with all this, I've decided that, first off, I no longer want to deal with belts.  Ever.  Period.  That is all.
So, I decided I'd upgrade to a march performance serpentine system: http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?Ntt=march+performance+serpentine&searchinresults=false&Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&N=115&target=egnsearch.asp - my engine will require the most expensive one (of course), the 40560, but still, considering the advantages, I think it well worth the $750.  Easy tension adjustment, no squealing, etc.
Plus, if you go to march performance's web site, they discuss improved cooling, as well - ( http://www.marchperf.com/pg48.html ) - So, hopefully that'll help with my cooling problem.
Next, more on the cooling problem...  The radiator was replaced about 3 years ago with a brand new HD (3-core, I think?) one, so I think it is fine.  I drained it a few days ago, and no rust at all seemed to be in the water, so I think that's fine.  The fan was replaced with a new one a while back- I don't remember the exact model, but it was supposedly a 'higher flow' fan, and I know it was 1" wider than factory (the factory left a small gap between the edges of the fan and the blades, the new one leaves just enough room not to rub).  So, all that should be fine.  The only remaining variable *I know of* is the water pump, so just to be sure, I figured since I'm pulling the whole front end of the motor apart anyway, I might as well replace it - and I thought, since I'm replacing it, I might as well go all out - so I decided to get this one: http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/fbshopmain2.asp?cat=1 (hm... Link no workie... It's  the edelbrock one, anyway) to ensure that won't be a problem. 
Finally, this is another 'since I'm taking all the stuff apart anyway' thing - I'd planned on putting of the A/C 'til later, but I don't want to work on this car anymore   So, a quick look-around pulled up this kit: http://www.paddockparts.com/Paddock/product_family.asp?family%5Fid=1649&gift=False&0=dept%2Easp%2Cdept%5Fid%3D4%26menu%5Fid%3D%26Tree%3D%2CDodge%2FPlymouth&1=dept%2Easp%2Cdept%5Fid%3D63%26menu%5Fid%3D%26Tree%3D0%2CDodge%2FPlymouth%20Heating%20%26%20Cooling&mscssid=9CA5A44E514C4B36873C60E72CE15C27 - I'd be getting the 134 kit so I can get charges from Auto Zone if I need to - I don't want to have to dig around for a place to get R-12 from.  As far as I can tell, this kit replaces everything but the condenser, heater core, and the controls inside.  I'll probably go ahead and replace the condenser as well, and my interior controls are in good shape.  I'll probably have to get another pulley for the new compressor to fit the serpentine system, but Classic Auto Air has a pulley they sell for that exact purpose, so that's no trouble. 

So.

This is a pretty hefty undertaking, with lots of dollars involved.  Does anyone see anything I'm being stupid about?  I'm really worried mostly about two things - One, I've never done A/C work before.  I'm guessing it's all pretty logical; put the parts together, ensure they all seal, then charge it, right?  If need be, I can take it in to have it charged, but is the rest of the job something I should be able to handle myself, no special tools needed, that sort of thing?

Second, what the heck can I do with this stinkin' broke-off easy out???  I'm completely at a loss...  Maybe I can find a 1/4" hole saw or something??  Do those exist?  Or does anyone else have any ideas for how to get this out?

Thanks bunches!!

[chargerbr549]

As far as your broken off easy out good luck! No really there is hope I have broken them off before and have had to remove my mistakes as well as other people doing the same thing, one of the ways that I have done this is to use a high speed die grinder with a small sharp carbide ball bit probably about a quarter inch in diameter and grind away, it may take a while so be patient, usually when your done you will have to helicoil the hole or if you made it to big you will have drill and tap the hole for an insert. I hope this helps.
                                                                     Kevin

[Chryco Psycho]

to keep the heat down advance the timing up to 14* minimum at idle & shorten the curve by either inserting an allen wrench into the vacuum advance nipple & turnin gthe screw a few turn counter clockwise , 14 turns is max & it is usually about 1* / turn you want to keep the total advance around 36-38* at 3000 RPM , this should kill the heat problem
sometimes hitting the easy out with a punch will loosen it or break it so you can get it out , definatly no fun

[defiance]

Yeah... I tried a small punch and hammer yesterday, no luck.  So, I pulled out the radiator and condenser to give me more room, got a big hammer, and ... it got dark   I'll have another go at it with a larger punch this afternoon.  I want to save grinding the whole thing out to a last resort if I can!  I'm kinda nervous about putting anything really ... destructive... too close to the surface because that's where the water pump seals against the block, so gotta be real careful there.  If that doesn't work, I've got a list of other things some friends have suggested... 
-Dremel with cutting wheel, cut a slot in the back of the easy out, use that to try to screwdriver out out
-tungsten carbide drill bit (not sure how attainable these are, home depot doesn't have them, and I haven't had luck finding them for reasonable prices online)
- then, if nothing else, I'll go with the 1/4 grinder as suggested.  Not looking forward to that, I can assure you!

Thanks for the suggestions! 

Oh, on the timing, I've varied it a bit both ways, and the problem persisted... I don't think I've gone as high as 14* initial, though, so I'll try that.  I still plan on doing the rest of the stuff, though, because it definitely won't hurt, and it will ensure that I don't have to take the crap apart again!

[69chargeryeehaa]

with the broken bolt, one thing you can try which has saved me alot of times is find a nut that the ID is just a bit smaller then the bolt.  then weld the nut from the inside onto the flush broken stud.  let it cool just a bit so the weld holds and then while still warm try to unscrew it.  broken easy outs are a real pain, welding the inside of the nut usually works and does'nt break or mark the surface.  hope that helps.

[1970440RT]

From experience,

     Overheating issue is many times a result of poor timing.  I 100% agree w/ Chryco, push it to at least 14 if not further.  Just watch and make sure total timing is not too high to detonate.  I had my 440 set at factory timing specs and could not stop it from overheating at idle for anything including installing and aluminum water pump and housing and aluminum radiator.  18 deg. initial and 38 deg total and the car runs like a scalded cat with no overheating issues at all.

    I've used the weld the nut on trick more than a few times with great success, even on broken exhaust manifold studs.