Safety wire and Loctite

[Dino]

I finally took all the brake parts out of the boxes, laid it all out and dry fitted all the parts to see if anything was missing.

I'm not sure if I'm going to need to make a bracket to install the new universal combo valve or if the existing brake lines will fit or not but those are straight forward enough.  The one thing I read in the instructions that was new to me is to use safety wire.  I had to look it up and I can see how the wire prevents bolts from coming loose but is this the norm on disc brakes?  I have never seen any with safety wire.  The Wilwood kit calls for the wire on the bolts holding the adapter to the rotor, I forget if there was more but probably hub to adapter needs the wire as well.  I guess just loctite won't do so what wire do I need?  Stainless 0.032"?

[Troy]

Safety wire is typically used in aircraft mechanics (required actually). I suppose it may be recommended/required for racing - which is what those brakes were designed for. I doubt you have to have it on the street.

Troy

[Dino]

I don't mind doing it, it just made me wonder if the bolts come loose that easily.  The instruction manual calls for Loctite 271, anything stronger out there I can use or is that one enough?  I do need to be able to take it apart some day.  

Edit:  I just looked this up and it seems the only way to remove bolts treated with Loctite 271 is heat.  That's a bit crazy.  Can I use the blue Loctite instead like 242-243?

What do you guys use to secure the rotor bolts?

[Dino]

I just realized that heat breaks down locitite...and I'm sure those brakes are going to get real hot from time to time so I'll go with Loctite 271 AND safety wire.  Better safe than sorry right?

[flyinlow]

.032 is good, seven turns per inch, pigtail folded back so you don't jab someone. Have your work inspected and don't forget to sign the logbook.   

  Sorry, old aircraft mechanic.

[Dino]

.032 is good, seven turns per inch, pigtail folded back so you don't jab someone. Have your work inspected and don't forget to sign the logbook.   

  Sorry, old aircraft mechanic.

I probably should have someone inspect it...but I wouldn't know who so I'll just pretend to be someone else and do it myself! 

Is it ok to wire 2 bolts together or do all bolts need to be tied together?  I can do this with a plain pair of pliers right?  I hate spending money on a tool I'll never use again.

[John_Kunkel]

Here's what it should look like on "righty-tighty"..

[flyinlow]

Real men safety wire by hand.

Two bolts at a time works fine.

Yea ,regular pliers will work. Try not to nick or kink the wire.

[ws23rt]

In the interest of getting to the bottom line of the question. And for those that may wonder some about why.
1--Bolting starts with the correct torque. The plan is that it will stay put and the torque does more than just keep things from coming apart. The two parts would be one part if they could be but bolting is the answer when that can't happen. (A loose bolt allows unintended flexing).
2--Locktite glues the bolt in place and maintains the clamping force.
3--Tie wire is a back up to make sure the bolt does not come out when the clamping force is lost. Loose bolts are bad but missing bolts are worse. That is why it is called safety wire and in aircraft it's be a bigger deal than in cars.

[ws23rt]

I don't mind doing it, it just made me wonder if the bolts come loose that easily.  The instruction manual calls for Loctite 271, anything stronger out there I can use or is that one enough?  I do need to be able to take it apart some day.  

Edit:  I just looked this up and it seems the only way to remove bolts treated with Loctite 271 is heat.  That's a bit crazy.  Can I use the blue Loctite instead like 242-243?

What do you guys use to secure the rotor bolts?

The need to use heat to remove a Loctited bolt is not a big deal. A propane torch will work fine. The idea is the heat will make the Loctite soft and allow for removal. It is also a good way to break a rust/corrosion bond. Heating the bolt will cause it to expand cracking the bond.
Sometimes I come to a bolt that looks like it may be trouble. (Especially in a bad place). When a first hard try makes me think I might round off the bolt head I stop and give it a good heating and allow cooling so it contracts breaking the old bond. Grinding, drilling, tapping are always bad news in a bad spot.

[bill440rt]

Dino, I safety-wired my Wilwood's as well as outlined in their instructions. Wasn't too bad. I hadn't safety wired anything in years. It was easy to get the hang of it again.
Ordered some wire & safety wire pliers from Summit. The pliers made the job very easy.