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temp gauge reading high

Started by resq302, May 27, 2013, 07:02:37 PM

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resq302

What would cause the temp gauge to read about 20-30 degrees higher than normal?  I just put an NOS temp sending unit in and it did not correct the problem.  I took a infared thermometer to the area of the temp sending unit and it was reading 188-190 yet the gauge was reading almost 230.  I know the gauge works off of resistance but could a gauge just start reading inaccurately or would you say there is some other issue going on?
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Back N Black

The gauges are adjustable, there is two small holes at the back of the gauge. unfortunately you have to remove the gauge.

resq302

Ah, ok, I was not aware of that.  Thanks!   :2thumbs: :cheers:
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Back N Black

 Here is a pic of the holes in the gauge for adjustment. The serated teeth on the gauge arms are used for calibration. Thats how to get the gauges in tune.

resq302

Wow.  Thanks, I never knew that.  Good to know.  I wonder if the rattling / vibration from driving worked its way loose or out of adjustment over time?   :shruggy:
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

PlainfieldCharger

Mine is doing exactly the same thing. Same temp readings on both the gauge and thermostate housing. I guess my cluster is coming out. How do I adjust it when it not hooked up?

:scratchchin:

oldcarnut

Just for curiosity or verification did you try an aftermarket gauge to compare readings?

resq302

Me, no.  However, I highly doubt the infrared thermometer would be wrong or off by that much.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

PlainfieldCharger

I also used an IR Gun. I have a new "OEM" gauge though...I am looking at my old one which worked but the face was faded. Still do not know which "hole" adjusts the high end? Do both do the same by adjusting the resistance and are used in together?

Back N Black


Pete in NH

HI,

The link referenced in the last post is a really excellent write up on checking out cluster gauges. Making up the little test box mentioned out of Radio Shack parts is the way to go and duplicated the original Chrysler test box for these gauges. The only other thing you need as referenced in the write up is a source of regulated 5 volts DC. For bench testing you can make up one of those 7805 instrument cluster regulators on a good heat sink and power it from a 12 volt battery. If you need help with that let me know.