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Which is the better coolant?

Started by Paul G, May 18, 2013, 10:46:56 AM

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Paul G

In the July 2013 Hot Rod Mag article "Which is the better coolant", they discuss different glycol water mixtures vs. pure water.

The bottom line states;

"a large tube aluminum radiator filled with pure water and using at least a 20 PSI cap is by far the best heat transfer set up. Providing the vehicle is not subject to freezing conditions. Be sure to add a corrosion inhibitor when running pure water"

Any one doing this? Using pure water? And what is pure water? Bottled drinking water, or distilled water from the grocery store? I would not use the swill that comes out of our faucets, it is way to high in minerals. What would be a good corrosion inhibitor, probably want some type of lubricant for the water pump as well. This interests me because of the harsh summers we have in Phoenix, and we don't get below freezing for more than a brief point overnight once in a great while.

Keeping engine temps below 230° in the summer with the A/C running is a real chore when the outside temps hit 110° and above. Turning the A/C off and opening the windows when the engine temp hits 140°(corrected 240°) is not something I want to do again.      :flame: literally
1972 Charger Topper Special, 360ci, 46RH OD trans, 8 3/4 sure grip with 3.91 gear, 14.93@92 mph.
1973 Charger Rallye, 4 speed, muscle rat. Whatever engine right now?

Mopars Unlimited of Arizona

http://www.moparsaz.com/#

Cooter

I repeat, NEVER run pure water in your cooling system. There's NO lubricant for the Water pump seals, T-sat, etc.
PLUS, how many people will actually use the "Rust inhibitors" and keep up with the flushes? Hell, I see cars with Coolant in them today with well over 200K miles and the cooling system looks like someone poured cow sh*t in it and they are wondering why their heater cores, Radiators are blowing, car runs hot, etc.

I believe in flushing out the good ol green coolant every two years. If you have ever seen that 100Kmile "Dex-Cool" sh*t GM came out with after the 100K miles, you'd think twice bout Flushes. There is no such thing as 100K mile/10 year coolant. Toyota's "red" coolant does the best job at abuse, but even it loses it's ability after 8-10 years.
Just because someone tested a myth doesn't mean it's the best option. Especially in Super hot areas. Hell, there were folks running pure alcohol in the cooling systems 50 years ago, but that proved to be costly as well. Worked, but at what cost.

The ONLY reason they require running pure water at many race tracks is due to clean-up....
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

resq302

I have to agree with Cooter as that the only place I have heard of using the pure water is at race tracks and that is for ease of clean up.  Antifreeze is slipperier than hell!
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Brightyellow69rtse

green antifreeze here every two years mixed with the swill from the faucet. never had any issue and ive been doing it that way since i was a kid. actually when i put the new aluminum radiator in the charger i used distilled water which i have never done before.

tan top

always use antifreeze , 50 % - 50% mix  :yesnod:
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Budnicks

I've used the Be-Cool Super Coolant anti freeze in the last few of my cars with Mancini racing 22" 4 core down flow Aluminum radiators, got the anti-freeze stuff free, seems to be good for what I need, I also add Purple Ice Super Coolant additive & water conditioner, to mine also, helped drop the temp from 195*-200* average to 185*-190* average temps in the summer, with an 18psi cap, it gets down in the "teens" here in the winter & over 100* in the summer, I always use a 50/50 mix, I have 2) Be-Cool electric fans, both w/aluminum blades, 1) 2950cfm 16" puller in a custom aluminum shroud, 1) 2650cfm 13" pusher in front for aux or if I get in a stop & go situation & it heats up, I almost never have the second 13" aux pusher fan on any more....
"fill your library before you fill your garage"   Budnicks

Chryco Psycho

Evans Waterless coolant is another option

flyinlow

I assume 140* is a typo, the thermostat would still be closed.

Bars leak and Zerex still sell Water pump lube/Rust inhibitor. I would not run these in a street car for any extended period of time, they are left overs from the alcohol antifreeze days.

Prestone (green) antifreeze ,protects against freezing (-34*) boiling (250* ), water pump lube and acid neutralizer (combustion by products)  Change every two years.

The pressure cap adds 2-3 degrees per psi of boiling protection, so with water 212* boiling point minus your Phoenix altitude 208* plus 50* for the 20 psi cap, boiling around 258*  


P.S. did you get the 518 fixed?

A383Wing

I took that orange crap out of the wife's PT Cruiser after it ate the plastic t-stat housing....replaced the coolant with 50-50 green stuff..never a problem again. The Toyota coolant is great..and pricey as well

Bryan

68CoronetRT

I thought the "Dex-Cool' was designed for the LS aluminum head design?

Been going strong in my GMC for years now(Flushed it twice in 170k miles). Never any overheating problems. :shruggy:

A383Wing

we had nothing but leakage & corrosion problems with Dexcool...it's not all it's cracked up to be

Bryan

bill440rt

I stopped running Dex-Cool after it ate up a water pump.  :nono:

I have Peak anti-freeze in my cars with aluminum heads & water pumps (I started using it after reading a good article about coolant in Mopar Action). It is green in color.
When I had iron heads on my '68 I would add Water Wetter to help keep the temps down. No need anymore after switching to aluminum heads & Peak. Mix is 50-50 with distilled water.

I have the coolant drained right now in my '70, & may switch to Peak when refilling it.
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

resq302

Quote from: A383Wing on May 22, 2013, 11:20:56 PM
we had nothing but leakage & corrosion problems with Dexcool...it's not all it's cracked up to be

Bryan


My grandmother had all kinds of issues with her 2000 Buick Century just after the basic warranty ran out with gaskets being eaten away, aluminum part corrosion, etc. All from the orange death cool! Stuff looked like mud inside her overflow tank.  The dealership said it was because air got into the system.   :slap:  Now the over flow tank will ALWAYS have air in it as it is not part of the pressurized system.  I think they thought I was an idiot!
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

charger Downunder

I only use the green stuff in my dodge.
[/quote]

Chippa

Quote from: charger Downunder on May 23, 2013, 08:03:15 AM
I only use the green stuff in my dodge.

Tectaloy Xtra cool or Xtra Gold concentrate  :2thumbs:

Paul G

Quote from: flyinlow on May 22, 2013, 09:16:34 PM
I assume 140* is a typo, the thermostat would still be closed.

P.S. did you get the 518 fixed?

Yep a typo, corrected it to 240°

Got the A518 back in a few weeks ago. Had the governor replaced. It came apart for some reason and destroyed itself. The trans was rebuilt only 1 1/2 years ago. Dropped it myself and took it back to the shop that rebuilt it, he only charged me $90 for parts, no labor.
1972 Charger Topper Special, 360ci, 46RH OD trans, 8 3/4 sure grip with 3.91 gear, 14.93@92 mph.
1973 Charger Rallye, 4 speed, muscle rat. Whatever engine right now?

Mopars Unlimited of Arizona

http://www.moparsaz.com/#

Fred

Quote from: Chippa on May 23, 2013, 08:07:48 AM
Quote from: charger Downunder on May 23, 2013, 08:03:15 AM
I only use the green stuff in my dodge.

Tectaloy Xtra cool or Xtra Gold concentrate  :2thumbs:

I started with Tectaloy Xtra cool but I've switched to Xtra Gold concentrate.  :2thumbs:


Tomorrow is promised to no one.......drive your Charger today.

flyinlow

Nice to hear about a company that stands behind its work.   :2thumbs:

Budnicks

Quote from: Chryco Psycho on May 18, 2013, 07:05:36 PM
Evans Waterless coolant is another option
wow 375* boiling temp, sounds like killer stuff
"fill your library before you fill your garage"   Budnicks

b5blue

I'll be going to Even's as soon as I can afford the hassle.  :yesnod: