Timing chain/valve timing question

[71 SE3834V]

OK, Long story short I think I'm gonna need a timing chain set on the '71 383. Been running piss poor since bringing it outta storage & suspected it last yr when I saw the timing mark jumping around 2 or 3* at idle. Not enough space hear to list everything I've done to rule out other things but lets say this isn't my 1st rodeo. HaHa. The last thing left to check is how many degrees movement I get outta the crank w/o the dist rotor moving.
So here's the setup/real question?
In reading up on past posts I see the mentioning of adjusting the cam timing via the different keyways in the crank sprocket. I've not been much of a "performance" guy (at least since my dune buggying days in the early 80's) as all my rides since then have been "just transportation". I've always just repaired things stock to get it back on the road so we can get back to work but this is my first fun/performance vehicle.

If I do need a chain what is the advantage/disadvantage of adjusting the valve timing?
Will it make much of a difference in a (as far as I know) stock engine?
Will it potentially hurt a possibly tired engine? (weak/tired springs, etc., 72,000mi, was driven hard, neglected & stored for 20 yrs)
If I increase the performance will it just "go to waste" since I have a 3.23 open diff w/some pretty skinny tires (205/75/14's) on it? I could light up the 245's that were on it b4 so I'm figuring these 205's don't have a chance. The 245's were dry rotted so I picked up the 205's on rallyes pretty cheap for now.

I have neither the time or money to be fooling around trying different things to make the car run better when it's already pretty impressive to me (it's my 1st BB from the performance era). Everyone seems to install a better cam but then it seems you need to change out the valve springs, rockers, etc, etc. I knew it didn't run quite right b4 it just went into the crapper, rather quickly, and returning it to stock would be just fine w/me. I know I'd hate to make an adjustment to the cam timing while I'm in there and if it still runs like crap I'd be kicking myself for not just returning it to stock to rule out a sloppy chain. In the end I might need a valve job if it's not the chain. I'm suspecting a valve job also because the plugs were full of carbon when I got it so I'm figuring the combustion chamber/valves might have a build up also.
Sorry for the long read. Believe me I left out a lot of things I've done to it in getting to this point. Thanks for your relies. Jeff

[Cooter]

If I do need a chain what is that advantage/disadvantage of adjusting the valve timing?

I assume you are referring to Adv/retarding the mechanicla cam timing? If so, the stright up is kind of a "Sweet spot" for good low end torqque and upper RPM HP. Advancing the cam a couple degrees will give you better low end torque, but will run out of steam up on top, and the retarding will have the opposite effect.
Will it make much of a difference in a (as far as I know) stock engine?Depends on what you want to do with the car.

Will it potentially hurt a possibly tired engine? (weak/tired springs, etc., 72,000mi, was driven hard, neglected & stored for 20 yrs)
Don't reccomend running ANY Valve springs that have sat in one position that long. Period.
If I increase the performance will it just "go to waste" since I have a 3.23 open diff w/some pretty skinny tires (205/75/14's) on it? I could light up the 245's that were on it b4 so I'm figuring these 205's don't have a chance. The 245's were dry rotted so I picked up the 205's on rallyes pretty cheap for now.Depends again on whether or not you just wanna do smokey burnouts, or actually want it to hook and perform 1/4 mile blasts.

I have neither the time or money to be fooling around trying different things to make the car run better when it's already pretty impressive to me (it's my 1st BB from the performance era). Everyone seems to install a better cam but then it seems you need to change out the valve springs, rockers, etc, etc. I knew it didn't run quite right b4 it just went into the crapper, rather quickly, and returning it to stock would be just fine w/me. I know I'd hate to make an adjustment to the cam timing while I'm in there and if it still runs like crap I'd be kicking myself for not just returning it to stock to rule out a sloppy chain. In the end I might need a valve job if it's not the chain. I'm suspecting a valve job also because the plugs were full of carbon when I got it so I'm figuring the combustion chamber/valves might have a build up also.
Sorry for the long read. Believe me I left out a lot of things I've done to it in getting to this point. Thanks for your relies. Jeff

[elacruze]

I'm with Cooter on the valve springs; plus after that long your valve seals will also be dead, so making those new would make you happy in the end.
As far as the timing chain, when you replace the timing chain you will automatically advance the cam due to eliminating the stretch the old chain had.

If I had things apart far enough to replace the timing chain, I'd get the heads off and have them freshened; also you'll get the opportunity to look at the cam lobes, or change the cam and lifters to something a little hotter (like a six-pack cam).

[maxwellwedge]

Could cause other weak things to show up like rings-ring seal....and actually run worse.


Have a look at your balancer as well.

[71 SE3834V]

Thanks guys.

To be a little more clear the car sat for 20 some years but I'm told it was started "once in a while" what ever that means.
Yes the valves seals are probably a little dried up (ya think?). Just pulled the plugs after 240 miles and at least 3 were oil fouled.
Sounds like just straight up is the way to go for me. I'm not looking for anything special, just driving to shows but I do like to put my foot in it once in a while and get pushed back in the seat. No smokey burnouts or 1/4 miles for me.
It did run pretty good last year. In 2011 it was just run in the drive, idling & revving a little. Didn't get a plate on it until 2012.
I've pulled the drivers side valve cover and all rockers seem to be moving good. Haven't had time to look at the pass side yet. I did replace the pass. side gasket in 2011 but didn't roll it over to check anything cause at the time it seemed to run alright.
Yeah, the balancer was another thing on my list of things to check. I've set the base timing all over the place from 0* to off the scale w/no changes so until I can check the slop in the chain it'll sit. I will say the the timing hasn't mysteriously changed and it's always right where I last set it. I don't know if that means anything as far as the balancer hub moving.
If I end up having to pull the heads that'll have to wait until fall when I'll have more time. Just might have to pull out the cruiser for the summer & park the Charger.  

[elacruze]

You could always just go old-school high-school; put a can of SeaFoam or Marvel Mystery in the tank, a fresh 15w40 oil change and drive it like you stole it. The plugs probably just need a half-hour on the freeway. Worst that can happen is you break a spring, drop a valve, kill a piston. :/. But not really too likely.

[71 SE3834V]

Ouch!
Finally got a chance to check the slop. Got 13-15* movement on the crank w/o the rotor moving! Guess I'll have to park it until I can deal w/it.