69 ignition switch problem

[Dino]

The original ignition switch in my 69 is getting difficult to turn,and the distinction between positions is vague. What do I need? Clean? Replace? Key cylinder only or the whole thing?

[Dino]

Never mind! A few squirts of electronic cleaner did the job!

[b5blue]

 

[Dino]

Well that didn't last! 

The key started getting hard to turn into the run position, and now it won't fire up half the time. Are the repros any good?

[b5blue]

Try lube like Triflow.

[Dino]

I took it all apart a few months ago. Cleaned it all up and lubed it. It worked great for a while but I think it's just worn out.

[70 sublime]

The key on my 69 was very worn also but it was very loose not tight
I could get the key out and the car was still running

Almost sounds like it is your switch part that is getting gummed up and not the key lock part

I bought a new aftermarket switch but never got around to installing it before I sold the car

[PlainfieldCharger]

Hey Dino,

By chance did you try Dielectric grease. Won't flash off or harden...

[Dino]

Yeah I think it is the switch itself that's the problem. I can't get it to turn over the starter now. I think I used dielectric grease when I pulled it apart. I will open it up and see what's going on.

[b5blue]

Using dielectric grease insulates contacts you want lube. (My key is on the column so different.)   

[Dino]

Using dielectric grease insulates contacts you want lube. (My key is on the column so different.)   

Right but isn't the idea that the grease prevents arcing while it is being removed where contacts meet?

[John_Kunkel]

Using dielectric grease insulates contacts you want lube. (My key is on the column so different.)   

"There is a myth floating around that putting dielectric grease into electrical connections can cause them to fail because the grease gets between the metal. That's not true.

Although the dielectric grease does insulate the metal and wiring from external invaders, the contacts are tight enough to still maintain a connection, the grease is just displaced."

[b5blue]

Pack any grease into switch gear is a no no regardless. Graphite or light oil (Not WD40) is preferred.

[John_Kunkel]

Pack any grease into switch gear is a no no regardless. Graphite or light oil (Not WD40) is preferred.

When you take original car switches apart, you find a grease of some sort (usually hardened with age) and it isn't "packed", just a thin film.

[Dino]

I took the switch apart. I did use dielectric grease and there was only a thin film. There is some wear on the tumbler pins, and on the inside of the switch housing and the contacts. The wear and weakened springs explain whi the lock is a bit tight and the key doesn't return to the run position by itself. I don't see why it is hard to turn the key into the run and start position, or why it won't engage the starter.
I hate buying a repro ignition switch and lock with those blank keys, but I'm not sure I can make this one work properly.

[b5blue]

I use Boeshield T-9

[Dino]

I use Boeshield T-9

That's good stuff.

I think the little spring goes between the end of the lock cylinder and switch. Does the other spring belong here or did I just find this on my workbench? 

[b5blue]

I tink so...

[Dino]

I think I figured it out.

[b5blue]

 

[Dino]

Ok I know I'm stupid, but I should be able to figure this out. I did before. I can't get the lock barrel all the way into the cylinder...

[b5blue]

Oh no...

[John_Kunkel]

Ok I know I'm stupid, but I should be able to figure this out. I did before. I can't get the lock barrel all the way into the cylinder...

Have you turned the key so that all the tumblers line up with the slots in the switch?

[Dino]

Yes, I got it to go in and the he key works, but there's just too much wear for it to work smoothly. The switch contacts have also lost a good deal of material. At this point I'm just going to get a new switch and matching ignition and door locks. It was worth a try but I don't want to jiggle the key every time I want to fire it up.