Is this a kickdown issue?

[John_Kunkel]

I just did the test and it only goes up to ~1750 rpm. Bad torque converter?

No, looks normal for a cammed 12" converter.

So far, it seems that your problems are engine related.

[Dino]

I just did the test and it only goes up to ~1750 rpm. Bad torque converter?

No, looks normal for a cammed 12" converter.

So far, it seems that your problems are engine related.

That should rule out any transmission problems then. I've just had two people on the Pro Flo board tell me they had similar issues and it turned out to be a bad injector. I will be checking those tomorrow. Thanks John!

[Dino]

Injectors checked out. I erased everything from the ECM and started over. It starts up without touching the throttle, at least when hot, I haven't tried yet when cold. In neutral it revs crisp as it should, and it settles down to 750 rpm, where I set it. Vacuum is around 12-13 at idle with timing at, goes up to about 16 when opening the throttle, and spikes to about 23 when I let go of the throttle. This is the reading on the Pro Flo app. I was about to hook up a vacuum gauge and play eith timing when the passenger HP manifold started smoking. Looks like a leak between manifold and pipe, or possibly at the heat riser but I think I welded all that. Anyway, that will have to come off and get fixed. The car still accelerates slower than it should, but it may be a little bit better. I'm not sure.
Once the manifold leak is fixed and I have timing set with good vacuum, would another torque converter be something to try? By the way, what should vacuum be at idle with my specs?

[TexasStroker]

Glad to see you got the Pro-Flo 4 installed.  Mine is still sitting in a box, but I am close to finishing the truck so I can get back to the cars.

What did you run for the accelerator cable?  If I remember right that was a hold up for me when gathering parts because it was going to be so much longer than stock as it was a RH TB mount.  Lokar was supposedly going to make one, but I'm not sure if it came to fruition...haven't checked in a year or two.  Any chance you've got slack there?  Does the pedal feel seem the same as when you were last driving?

Have you checked any of the plugs?

Hopefully it will be an easy fix.

[metallicareload99]

I would expect more vacuum than what you're seeing. That cam seems pretty mild. The computer is controlling the timing, correct? Were you able to verify the timing with a timing light?

Is the exhaust leak on the side with the O2 sensor?

[Dino]

Glad to see you got the Pro-Flo 4 installed.  Mine is still sitting in a box, but I am close to finishing the truck so I can get back to the cars.

What did you run for the accelerator cable?  If I remember right that was a hold up for me when gathering parts because it was going to be so much longer than stock as it was a RH TB mount.  Lokar was supposedly going to make one, but I'm not sure if it came to fruition...haven't checked in a year or two.  Any chance you've got slack there?  Does the pedal feel seem the same as when you were last driving?

Have you checked any of the plugs?

Hopefully it will be an easy fix.

For the throttle cable I used a long cable intended for hi rise manifolds. Easy install and works well. No slack. It pulls the butterflies as soon as you push the pedal. Pedal feels the same in till I put the kickdown spring on it, then it feels harder. Throttle bracket is on the driver side though so it shouldn't be an issue.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/294869565198?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=kPPcbxlDSP-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=jzlomRlWSES&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Old plugs were black from all testing so I replaced them with a new set just last week.

Hard or easy, I hope there's a fix and I didn't go through all this to have worse performance than what I started with!

I would expect more vacuum than what you're seeing. That cam seems pretty mild. The computer is controlling the timing, correct? Were you able to verify the timing with a timing light?

Is the exhaust leak on the side with the O2 sensor?

I thought it should be more. The cam is only slightly more than stock. I had more vacuum with the old purple cam.
It does control timing, but you still have to tell it what idle timing is, what it is all in, and by what rpm. I did verify it with a timing light.

Yes it's on the same side. Looking back at the video, I wonder if I created an oil leak from revving it so hard and it's dripping on the exhaust manifold.

[metallicareload99]

Yeah, I had a Lunati 10230703 with 226°/234° in my 440 and it made 20"+, but I do have a manual transmission and idle was set @ around 950 RPM

If you have an exhaust leak, I would assume that you would hear it

[Dino]

Yeah I'm thinking this is oil on the exhaust. I won't have time to check it out until Wednesday but will find out. I would think manual or auto would be the same vacuum in neutral. At 950 rpm I don't make anywhere near that vacuum. I just ordered a smoke machine. If there's a vacuum or exhaust leak, I'll find it.

[Dino]

No exhaust leak. It's a bit of oil from the corner of the valve cover.

I tried readjusting the kickdown cable, or throttle pressure as I think it's called, and it made the kickdown a bit more sensitive, with a slightly harsher 2-3, but otherwise still a dud from a standstill. If I shift it into 1st gear, shouldn't it stay there until I move it? Mine shifts into 2nd gear without moving the shifter. IT stays into 2nd until I move the shifter to D.

Some people say that may cam is retarted. It was installed per Crower specs and the whole ordeal is in a sticky here. If the trans turns out fine then I need to dig deeper into the engine itself, but I'm not convinced yet the trans doesn't have an issue. Can I drop the pan and filter and check things or is it more complicated than that?

[Dino]

I think I found the problem...

I thought I had the Crower 32240 cam but Ron convinced me to get the 32243. I just found the order email from Summit. It was from 2015 so I just forgot the details. This changes everything.

Crower recommends a tire and gear that keeps the car at higher rpm, and it needs compression of 9.5:1 to 10.5:1. I'm lucky to get 9.0:1.

The 3.23 gear and 28" tall tire do not help.

Here's the specs:

Crower 32242
INT/EXH - Dur @ .050" Lift: 222°/234° RR: 1.5/1.5 Gross Lift: .486"/.496" LSA: 112° RPM: 1800 to 6000 Redline: 6500

I think the easiest mod right now is to install a higher stall TC. Any recommendations?

I recently picked up a Wilcap adapter for a GM trans to a Mopar BB so that will allow me to stick some better gear in the back and enjoy higher rpm on the street while keeping it highway friendly. That's not something I can pull off in a weekend though.

I don't want to deal with aftermarket heads. Would I benefit from advancing the cam or should a high stall TC do the trick? The cam has 4 degrees ground in so it was installed at 108.

While the trans is out, what else do I need to do besides filter change and checking the bands? What would prevent it from staying in first gear with the shifter in first?

[John_Kunkel]

If I shift it into 1st gear, shouldn't it stay there until I move it? Mine shifts into 2nd gear without moving the shifter. IT stays into 2nd until I move the shifter to D.

Yes, it "should", but there are combinations of governor weights and engine rpm that will override the lever position. At what rpm does it upshift uncommanded?

[Dino]

If I shift it into 1st gear, shouldn't it stay there until I move it? Mine shifts into 2nd gear without moving the shifter. IT stays into 2nd until I move the shifter to D.

Yes, it "should", but there are combinations of governor weights and engine rpm that will override the lever position. At what rpm does it upshift uncommanded?

~2000 at light throttle, up to ~3600 WOT.

[Dino]

I think this one may be worth a try.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tci-141200?srsltid=AfmBOophwIo_nrgGX1hNHXVFmHMwhptFCXpQwDSxZiCkh3NtlkWPyqVP

[Dino]

Upon further review, it looks like TCI may not be the most reliable.

I sent a message with all info the SMR. I was considering Turbo Action but nobody has those. Are they still in business? I'll check with a few others.
Heck I'd get the 2801764 if I could find one.

I did the brake stall test again. If I stomp the throttle it reaches 1800 rpm for a split second, but on several tries throughout the day mid 1700s is the average. Floor it or rev it up slowly, it doesn't matter. Result is the same. 4 wheel discs keep the car planted.


Is this the actual 764 TC?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/dacco,764,torque+converter,8668

[metallicareload99]

I'm the last person to be giving advice RE automatic transmissions, but I'd strongly consider a torque converter from one of the specialty suppliers 

The low vacuum readings still seem concerning.....

[Dino]

Vacuum is about 12.5 at idle, 750 rpm. High is about 16 around 12-1300.

I looked up your cam and you have 10 degrees overlap. I only have 4. Maybe it's because I have low compression, or a tall single plane with a 1000 cfm throttle body.

While I wait on advice from the cam companies, I'm going to install a Dacco 764. They're cheap and I'm curious.

I bought a Wilcap adapter to stick a 4L60E or 700R4 behind the engine so I'm not going to go too crazy with the 727. The overdrive will allow me to get better gearing and keep my tall tire.

[b5blue]

Are you going to race? What is your compression? 

[Dino]

Are you going to race? What is your compression? 

No race, but I'd like to get 0-60 quicker than the current 15 seconds! 

Compression should be around 9:1, that's what Ron guesstimated way back when. I have yet to buy a decent cylinder compression tester.

[b5blue]

I WAS going to order a cam from "Mr. Sixpack" but when I called he sent me to Hughes so I got their HP cam. (The standard Mopar HP cam was not available, but now is.)

[John_Kunkel]

I'm going to install a Dacco 764. They're cheap and I'm curious.

The factory 2801764 is basically the same converter that aftermarket companies sell at an inflated price.

[marshallfry01]

Regarding Chevy transmissions, I'd go with a 2004R instead of a 4L60/700r4. Both the L60 and 700r4 have really deep first gear ratios. Too much of a jump from 1st to 2nd gear in my opinion. The 2004R has an even gear ratio split between the first 3 gears and has a sweet 0.67 OD. The .67 OD with a lockup converter would have you turning 2000rpm at 60mph with a 4.10 and a 28 inch tall tire. Just my 

[Dino]

Hmmm the 200R4 ratios do look good. Not that I race the car, but can they stand up to a 440? With a 28" tall tire, I'd probably settle for a  gear in the 3.7 range. Fun in town and good ln long drives.

[Dino]

I took the pan off last night. No metal shavings, a little debris on the filter but nothing crazy. I'm not sure if this would be relevant.
I readjusted the TV cable to 1:1 travel with the throttle cable, and it seems to work fine. I took a short video. Does that bolt need to touch the TV mechanism at the end of its travel? It's not right now.
I will check the band adjustment but need to go out and get a decent inch torque wrench. Thighten to 72 inch pounds and is it 2 turns out for both? I think that's what the book says. Trans will come out today to swap the TC. Is there anything else I need to check or do before it goes back in the car?

https://youtu.be/t-S4zOcDyMc?si=CJgZuOMv_R5WNZxh

[John_Kunkel]

Don't worry about the exact torque on the band adjusters, just hand tight with a short wrench is good and 2 turns out is good. Not a big deal if the cam doesn't hit the stop screw but, if the travel is actually 1:1, it should.

If you're gonna replace the converter, now is a good time to replace the front seal. When installing the seal, pack the garter spring with grease to prevent the spring from popping off when installing.

[Dino]

Never knew they were called garter springs. I'll replace the seal and make the adjustments. Thanks John