Hey Guys,
I am in the process of getting the engine running before I paint the 69 and am having spark issues that have me stumped.
When I turn the key on, I get a fat spark, when I crank the engine, no spark, when I turn the key off I get a fat spark. All voltage specs check out, all components are new......
Any thoughts??
Thanks, I appreciate it
Is this a "stock" 69 ignition? :scratchchin:
use the search function "ign1 ign2" and you'll likely find the answer.
Your ignition switch provides a 'start' circuit and a 'run' circuit, each cuts out when the other is activated.
Quote from: b5blue on August 05, 2010, 06:04:57 AM
Is this a "stock" 69 ignition? :scratchchin:
Not "stock" I added electronic ignition, I am beginning to think that my ecu is bad, gonna swap it out with a known goodie and see if that gets things going.
I have already tested the ig 1 and 2 wires at the bone and all run/ start voltages are within specs
Thanks for the replies
You should have a 12V reading during "cranking" even on the output side of the ballast.
It helps get things going.
no need for that really, but will get it anyway when cranking, like Mopars are originally. As stated is just a SWITCH ON signal, no need for high voltage. The high voltage source is the main source at thick red wire
Newer MSD instruction sheets states you can source the small red wire from coil wire ( with ballas still on place )
The ballast is bypassed when cranking to deal with the voltage drop to the coil from the starter motors battery drain.
yes, thats what I said ;D... on cranking moment is getting full 12 volts from the ballast "output" due the brown wire splice directly from IGN2., then on IGN1 ( RUN ) brown wire is feeded THROUGH ballast. Low voltage, but still able to keep switched on the MSD
Thanks guys,
I swapped in a known good ecu, nothing.
I suspect that my brand new (sitting for ten yrs) Mopar "performance" electronic conversion distrubuter is bad (along with the orange box) :flame: I am gonna plug in the known good one out of the 440 and see if I get proper spark when I spin it. I effin hate raping my other cars to check another, good to have spare parts driving around though :brickwall:
had the same problem with the MP ignition set up , it turned out to be a magnetic pick up in the distributor , :yesnod:
check for ohms read between pick up coil leads... must read between 150 and 900 ohms. Average all what I have tested reads 200 to 300 ohms
Quote from: tan top on August 05, 2010, 05:32:07 PM
had the same problem with the MP ignition set up , it turned out to be a magnetic pick up in the distributor , :yesnod:
How would I go about diagnosing that problem, and if it is bad, where can I get a replacement??
Thanks
Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on August 05, 2010, 06:31:07 PM
check for ohms read between pick up coil leads... must read between 150 and 900 ohms. Average all what I have tested reads 200 to 300 ohms
New coil, checked out good
Dizzy should give a .5 volt pulse when center shaft is spun or as engine is turned over to test function.
I yanked the distributer outta the Cuda, plugged it into the harness on the Charger, gave it a spin and it sounded like the wheel of fortune, sparks aplenty. Started dinking with the one in the car and fornd it will only spark when I tap/ push on the rotor. Gonna get a new dizzy today and get this dang ol' Charger fired up :2thumbs:
Thanks again for the help :cheers:
nothing like when a big problems becomes on a cheap solution :thumbs:
It's always the most simple thing, in this case, bad distributer....New one is in and the old boy runs! Sounds a little rough and the carb is whistling, I really need to run the engine for a while since it is brand spanking new and has less than five minutes on it. I will get some more fuel line and hook it up to a can rather than the budweiser bottle I have now :smilielol: