I purchased the fiberglass nose kit from Janak and now I am interested in knowing what I need to purchase to actually make the hideaway headlights functional.
Is there a way to make them electric rather than vacuum?
Are there diagrams out there on how to install them?
Are there aftermarket parts or do you have to find the parts on eBay?
Thanks
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,52704.0.html .You can go with this GTO set up .Or the #961 Vac actuators as daytona RT/SE did.You can get the vacuum reserve can .And the vacuum headlight harness and the headlight switch from a 69 charger
Quote961 Vac actuators as daytona RT/SE did.
DON'T USE THOSE THEY LEAK . THAT'S WHY WE USED THE GTO ONES
http://www.megapartsusa.com/proddetail.asp?prod=102%2DVHK4
Here are the pages from Ames Performance. What would I need to purchase from these pages?
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v295/dillon14/GTOHideaways.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v295/dillon14/Headlights.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v295/dillon14/Hideaways2.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v295/dillon14/Hideaways3.jpg)
B 146 B , I hope your good @ fabricating
Quote from: daytonalo on January 19, 2009, 06:46:38 PM
B 146 B , I hope your good @ fabricating
I am not sure what you mean by that? Could you please explain?
I'm just hoping to get some help here.
Thanks
What I'm trying to say it's far from cut and dry when your interfacing a part never intended to be installed a Mopar , I eat & drink this shit and it really tested me to make my Stinger doors open and shut . According to stinger not many have operational Vacuum headlight doors . What nose do you have ??? Are the Pivots steel ? I hope so because the Vacuum strength will destroy Fiberglass . GOOD LUCK GRASSHOPPER !!!!
Larry
I have the Janak nose.
Maybe I'll save myself a lot of headaches and leave the doors closed.
Thanks
QuoteMaybe I'll save myself a lot of headaches and leave the doors closed.
that would save you a massive headache
you could always use Popsicle sticks !!!!!!
At one point in time, I thought about using heavy duty morse cables. The kind that you twist to lock. They used to use them on 18 wheelers.
I used them as fuel shutoff cables for my injectors on my dragster back in the 70's. Yes, I'm that old. Shut up. ;D
Wow you are old !!! Why not call your car " FOSSIL DAYTONA " :icon_smile_big:
Yeah, yeah...I'm old...I drove these cars when they were new. They were pieces of crap back then too. We were performing rust repairs when they were less than five years old. And that was here in the sunny south. I can only imagine what they were like in your part of the world. :icon_smile_big:
Quotehey were pieces of crap back then too
i had a 70 roadrunner and a 69 charger in the late 70's. they were both rusted away already.
Vacuum is a good way to go. I bought a 12v vacuum switch on ebay for like $15. The GTO actuator will work fine as well. Minor fabricating:
Simple mounting bracket for actuator
12V air switch
small vacuum line
12V from the headlight harness (anywhere) so when you turn on the lights the switch is activated.
Done deal.
QuoteDone deal.
there ya go easy,that's why you see so many replica's with working headlights . :icon_smile_big:
Cant find that switch , could you give me a E-bay listing #?
I looked for one of those switches a couple of years ago and decided that they were no longer available. Good to hear that they're out there. So many of the original headlamp switches are defective.
Hi,
Any of these will work for vaccume
http://shop.ebay.com/items/__Electric-valve_W0QQ_nkwZElectricQ20valveQ20QQ_cqrZtrueQQ_fromfsbZQQ_nkwuscZElectricQQ_nkwuscZSolenoidValveQQ_trksidZm270Q2el1313
I don't see the one I got but it was like $15. You don't need anything bigger then 3/8
Here is the one I used:
http://cgi.ebay.com/1-4-Electric-Solenoid-Valve-12-volt-Air-Water-BBTF_W0QQitemZ300282486887QQcmdZViewItemQQptZBI_Automation_Components?hash=item300282486887&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318%7C301%3A1%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50